The Darwin skyline across Fannie Bay

 

Darwin
A classic tropical sea port and the capital of the Northern Territory.
Darwin is the capital city of the Northern Territory. Located between Beagle Gulf and Port Darwin and situated on Fannie Bay, Darwin is a thriving centre of over 110 000 people.

Port Darwin was discovered by Lieutenant John Lort Stokes and named by Captain J.C. Wickham when, travelling in the HMS Beagle, they passed the harbour area in 1839. Wickham named the area after Charles Darwin who had once sailed in the HMS Beagle. In 1869 it was renamed Palmerston but in 1911 it reverted to Darwin.

The settlement of Darwin is a vital part of the interminable saga of trying to establish an outpost of the northern coast of Australia. The various settlements at Escape Cliffs, Port Essington and Fort Dundas (see Melville Island) had all been miserable failures. The South Australian government were determined to make the settlement at Port Darwin work. Consequently they were far more systematic and thorough. The Surveyor-General was sent to the area and by 1869 he had surveyed the town and had drawn up plans for leases. In spite of these preparations the new town of Palmerston was hardly a boom place for real estate. The town would almost certainly have been as short-lived as the previous attempts at settlement had it not coincided with the construction of the Overland Telegraph. Thus the outpost had an instant raison d'etre.

 

Government House, Darwin

 

In 1870 the first pole at the northern end of the Overland Telegraph was placed in the ground. Two years later Government House, a remarkably beautiful old seven-gabled house which overlooks Darwin Harbour, was built. It was pulled down and rebuilt in the 1880s and that building, known as the 'House of Seven Gables', still stands today surrounded by a white fence and magnificent tropical gardens. Its domination of the harbour foreshore is a combination of good luck and superb architecture. The town/city has been seriously damaged by cyclones three times and during World War II it was bombed over 60 times.

The period from 1870 to 1900 saw successive waves of settlers. The Chinese who had worked on the Overland Telegraph now turned their attentions to market gardening and established a thriving Chinatown in the centre.

By 1881 the town had a population of 3451. The sudden increase in the population saw the construction of the Fannie Bay Gaol in 1882–3. The gaol was closed in 1979 and in 1982 it became the Fannie Bay Museum. The gaol is located on East Point Road and has a number of interesting displays including the gallows which were erected in the infirmary for the Territory's last execution in 1952. Other interesting displays include the women's section and the mess. The laundry was destroyed by Cyclone Tracy and it is appropriate that the gaol now houses a Cyclone Tracy display which includes an excellent photographic display and a continuous 30 minute video of the devastation.

The story of the disaster which was Cyclone Tracy is one which is widely known in Australia. At the time, Christmas Day, 1974, it received massive media coverage.

It was, quite simply, Australia's worst natural disaster. At 3 am the anemometer at Darwin Airport recorded winds of 217 km/h before it stopped working; winds of up to 250 km/h were estimated to have hit the city; total damage exceeded $1000 million and 65 people were killed; about 26 000 people had to be evaluated and over 1000 people needed medical attention; 16 people were lost at sea, their bodies never recovered; the ABC radio station, 8DR, was off the air for 34 hours; over 90 per cent of all buildings in the city were seriously damaged.

Some of the buildings which were devastated were the Old Police Station, the Court House and Cell Block all on The Esplanade which runs along Lameroo Beach. The buildings were constructed in 1884 under the guidance of the architect John George Knight who was at the time, the Government Resident for the Northern Territory.

The Police Station, Court House and Cell Block had all been used as the headquarters for the Northern Territory Mounted Police until World War II when the Royal Australian Navy took over the buildings and the area became known as HMAS Melville. They remained in under Navy control until Cyclone Tracy damaged them. It was a comment of the building techniques of the nineteenth century that even after Cyclone Tracy had wiped out most of Darwin the buildings were still standing, albeit somewhat damaged. Their importance was such that in 1978 the government decided to have them reconstructed and they are now used as offices by the Northern Territory Administration.

The 1890s saw the discovery of gold at Pine Creek and the development of a pearling industry in the seas to the north. The result was that by 1891 the population of Darwin had grown to 4 898.

There are two free publications Top of Australia - Visitors Magazine and Visitors' Guide to Darwin - Australia's North both of which are published by the Darwin Tourist Promotion Association and are available from all Tourist Information Offices in the Darwin area. They both contain good maps of the city and plenty of up–to–date information.

 

 

 

Things to see:  

Chinese Temple
The Chinese have left their mark upon the city and visitors can go to the Chinese Temple on Woods Street about 1.5 km from the city centre where the local Buddhists, Taoists and Confucianists still worship. The building has a very chequered history having been destroyed by the 1937 cyclone, Japanese bombing raids in 1942 and Cyclone Tracy in 1974. Open from 8am-4pm daily the temple is an interesting example of the rich racial mixture which is such an important part of the history of Darwin.

 

Esplanade Gallery
One building which survived Cyclone Tracy virtually unscathed is the Esplanade Gallery which was built out of cypress pine and 10 cm nails in 1937 and moved to its present location on The Esplanade in 1951. It is a superb example of tropical architecture with every design feature, and the garden, designed to maximise the benefit of the breezes off the harbour.

 

Fannie Bay Gaol
By 1881 the town had a population of 3451. The sudden increase in the population saw the construction of the Fannie Bay Gaol in 1882-3. The gaol was closed in 1979 and in 1982 it became the Fannie Bay Museum. The gaol is located on East Point Road and has a number of interesting displays including the gallows which were erected in the infirmary for the Territory's last execution in 1952. Other interesting displays include the women's section and the mess. The laundry was destroyed by Cyclone Tracy and it is appropriate that the gaol now houses a Cyclone Tracy display which includes an excellent photographic display and a continuous 30 minute video of the devastation.

 

British Australian Telegraph Residence Museum
A superb display chronicling the pearl diving era exists in the BAT building otherwise known as Lyons Cottage. Located on The Esplanade opposite the Esplanade Gallery the building, which was completed in 1925, originally housed the British-Australian Telegraph Company. It was seriously damaged by Japanese bombing during the war and in 1948 it was bought by the Lyons family and consequently became known as Lyons Cottage.

Now known as the British Australian Telegraph Residence Museum, Lyons House has an excellent display with each room concentrating on aspects of early Territory history. There's a room on the history of pearling, another on Palmerston and Essington, another on the maritime history of the area dating back to the first explorers and the Macassans, a room on the early police force, and a room on the Telegraph system.

 

Stuart Memorial
Another place to recall Darwin's early history is the Stuart Memorial on the corner of Mitchell Street and Knuckley Street.

It is entirely appropriate that Darwin should have a memorial celebrating the remarkable achievements of John McDouall Stuart. Although he was not the first person to cross Australia from south to north (that 'honour' belongs to the rather inglorious adventures of Burke and Wills who reached the mangrove swamps of the Gulf of Carpentaria on 11 February 1861) Stuart was the first to make the journey successfully. He started his journey on 26 October 1861 from Adelaide and reached the coast 65 km east of the Adelaide River - close to the site of modern day Darwin.

Stuart's route was more than just a piece of daring exploration. Within a decade the route had become the means by which the whole of the Northern Territory was opened up because it was used as the basis for the construction of the Overland Telegraph which established communities around the repeater stations at Darwin, Yam Creek, Katherine, Daly Waters, Powell Creek, Tennant Creek, Barrow Creek, Alice Springs and Charlotte Waters.

Today, with minor variations, Stuart's route is still the major artery for transport through the Territory. It is appropriately known as the Stuart Highway.

 

Botanical Gardens
It is easy for southerners to forget that Darwin is both geographically and temperamentally a 'city in the tropics'. Therefore the city's Botanical Gardens (enter via Gardens Road) are something worth visiting. Started in the late 1870s by the German botanist Dr. Maurice Holtze they contain over 400 species of tropical plant.

Holtze was one of those remarkable and urbane Europeans who find their way to Australia by strange means. He had worked in the Royal Gardens in Hanover and the Imperial Gardens in St Petersburg before migrating to Australia where, from 1878-1891, he was government gardener at the Palmerston Botanic Gardens. The government officials, being typical philistines in terms of horticulture, put him in charge of the production of fruit and vegetables for their tables but Holtze rebelled saying that the 'raising of cabbage heads was not the greatest ambition of the true botanist'. With his son, Nicholas (who became curator of the Gardens in 1891) Holtze began a series of experiments to see whether the climate of the 'top end' was suitable for the growing of tropical crops. He experimented with rice, rubber, coffee, tobacco, peanuts, sugar and other less well known crops and advocated that the Northern Territory could become a rice bowl.

In 1891 he left the Territory and became director and secretary of the Adelaide Botanical Gardens.

 

Christchurch Cathedral
One building which is a reminder of the devastation of Cyclone Tracy is Christchurch Cathedral in Smith Street near the harbour. The original building was completed in 1902. It was 'enhanced' by the armed forces in 1944. Using stones taken from the old Post Office they built a porch as a memorial to the people who had died in World War II. Significantly when Christmas morning 1974 dawned the only part of the Cathedral left intact was the porch. The cathedral was subsequently rebuilt incorporating the porch into the new design.

 

Northern Territory Museum of Arts and Natural Sciences
Established in 1969 by Dr Colin Hinton, the Northern Territory Museum of Arts and Natural Sciences is one of the best museums in Australia. Where many museums tend to be stuffy, rather lifeless places, this museum focuses on South-East Asia and Australasia and has enough fascinating exhibitions to keep even the most bored visitor interested. The museum's show pieces include an excellent exhibition of Aboriginal bark paintings, a collection of stone axes some of which are estimated to be 22 000 years old, and the Melville Island Pukamani Burial Poles.

 

Indo Pacific Marine
The Indo Pacific Marine in Lambell Terrace near the northern end of Smith Street is worth a visit. It is one of the few aquariums in the world which has an exhibit of living coral formations.

 

East Port Fortifications
The East Port Fortifications at East Point at the northern end of Fannie Bay is a reminder of how close Darwin was to the front line during World War II. These military fortifications were built between 1936 and 1943. Not surprisingly East Port was the site of the first air attack on Australian shore. On 19 February 1942 the Japanese bombed the headland. Today the headland has remnants of bunkers, command posts, gun emplacements and munitions facilities.

 

Browns Mart
Browns Mart is the oldest commercial building still standing in Darwin. Located at 12 Smith Street the building was originally erected in 1883. It was seriously damaged by the cyclones of both 1897 and 1974 but after both disasters it was restored so that today its simple stone construction and casement windows with their galvanised hoods it is a reminder of nineteenth century Darwin.

 

Giese Residence
The devastation which occurred with Cyclone Tracy has left only rare examples of earlier forms of architecture. The Giese Residence at the corner of Myilly Terrace and Kahlin Avenue is an example of the kind of larger timber house which was built in Darwin in the 1920s. It was designed for the tropical climate with timber shutters, a beautiful tropical garden and an open floor plan to allow the breezes to cool the house.

 

The Urban Fringe
Beyond the city centre and the points of interest Darwin sprawls with that kind of scrappy urban fringe which is all too common at the edges of Australian cities. This is a zone of market gardens, the occasional house, industry, sports areas, HMAS Coonawarra - Naval Communications Station, the Darwin Airport, and endless service stations. If it wasn't for the temperature and the vegetation it would be possible to mistake this area for the outskirts of Melbourne or Sydney.

 

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NSW towns

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Qld Towns

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Victoria

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Tasmania

 

 Australian Businesses for sale  Ansons Bay  Avoca   Beaconsfield  Beauty Point   Bicheno  Boat Harbour   Bothwell  Branxholm  Broadwalk Business Brokers     Contact Broadwalk  Bridgewater  Bridport   Brighton   Bronte Park  Bruny Island  Buckland   Burnie   Bushy Park  Cambridge  Campbell Town  Chudleigh  Cleveland   Colebrook   Coles Bay  Cradle Mountain  Cressy   Cygnet    Deddington  Deloraine   Derby   Derwent Bridge  Devonport   Dover  Dunalley  Eaglehawk Neck  Evandale  Exeter  Falmouth   Fingal   Flinders Island   Forth  Franklin   Geeveston  George Town  Gladstone  Gould's Country  Hadspen   Hamilton   Hastings  Hobart   Huonville  Kempton   Kettering  King Island  Kingston  Koonya   Latrobe   Launceston  Lilydale   Longford   Luina   Maria Island   Marrawah  Middleton  Miena  Mole Creek   National Park  New Norfolk   Nubeena   Oatlands  Orford   Ouse   Penguin   Perth   Pioneer   Poatina   Pontville   Port Arthur   Port Sorell  Queenstown Railton   Renison Bell   Richmond   Ringarooma  Rokeby   Rosebery   Rosevears  Ross   Saltwater River   Savage River  Scamander   Scottsdale  Sheffield   Sidmouth   Smithton  Snug   Somerset   Sorell   Southport   St Helens  St Marys   Stanley   Strahan  Strathgordon  Swansea  Taranna   Tarraleah   Tomahawk   Triabunna  Tunbridge   Ulverstone  Waratah  Weldborough  Westbury  Wilmot   Windemere  Woodbridge  Wynyard    Zeehan

South Australia

Adelaide  Adelaide Hills  Aldgate   Aldinga   Andamooka  Angaston  Ardrossan  Arkaroola  Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava   Barmera  Beachport   Bed and Breakfasts for sale   Beltana   Berri   Bethany   Birdwood   Blanchetown  Blinman  Booleroo Centre   Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bordertown  Bridgewater   Bruce  Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis  Carrieton  Caravan Parks for sale Clare   Coober Pedy   Coonalpyn   Coonawarra  Coorong  Copley   Crafers  Crystal Brook  Curramulka   Echunga  Edithburgh  Eudunda   Farms for sale   Gawler    Gladstone   Glendambo  Goolwa   Greenock   Gumeracha  Hahndorf   Hawker  Hotels for sale   Innamincka Jamestown   Kadina   Kangaroo Island  Kapunda  Karoonda  Keith  Kingston-on-Murray  Kingston South East  Lameroo   Laura   Leigh Creek   Lobethal   Loxton   Lyndhurst  Lyndoch  Maitland   Mallala  Management Rights for sale  Mambray Creek  Mannum   Marion Bay   Marla  Marree  McLaren Vale   Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton   Mintaro  Moonta  Morgan  Mount Barker   Mount Gambier   Mount Pleasant   Motels for sale   Murray Bridge  Mylor  Naracoorte   Nuriootpa    Oodnadatta   Orroroo  Padthaway   Parachilna  Paringa  Penola  Penwortham  Peterborough   Pinnaroo  Port Augusta  Port Broughton  Port Clinton  Port Elliot   Port Germein  Port MacDonnell  Port Noarlunga  Port Pirie  Port Victoria  Port Vincent  Port Wakefield  Quorn  Renmark  Reynella   Riverton   Robe   Roseworthy  Roxby Downs  Salisbury   Seppeltsfield  Sevenhill  Snowtown   Spalding  Springton   Stansbury   Stirling   Strathalbyn  Summertown  Swan Reach  Tailem Bend  Tanunda   Tarlee  Terowie  Tintinara  Truro  Victor Harbor   Waikerie   Wallaroo   Warooka   Watervale   Wellington   Williamstown   Willunga  Wilmington  Wilpena Pound   Woomera  Yankalilla  Yorketown

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River   Alice Springs   Arltunga   Arnhem Land  Barrow Creek  Batchelor   Bathurst Island  Borroloola   Daly River   Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk Daly Waters     Darwin  Dunmarra  Erldunda Escape Cliffs   Glen Helen Gove Peninsula  Groote Eylandt    Hermannsburg  Humpty Doo  Kakadu National Park  Katherine  Kings Canyon   Larrimah   Mataranka  Melville Island  Newcastle Waters   Pine Creek    Port Essington  Raffles Bay  Renner Springs   Roper Bar     Ross River   Tanami  Tennant Creek   Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope  Wollogorang

Western Australia Towns

Albany  Armadale  Augusta  Australind  Badgingarra   Balingup  Balladonia  Beacon    Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk  Bencubbin   Beverley   Bindoon   Boddington   Borden   Boyup Brook   Bremer Bay   Bridgetown   Broad Arrow   Brookton  Broome  Broomehill  Bruce Rock  Bunbury   Busselton  Caiguna   Cape Inscription  Capel   Carnamah   Carnarvon  Cervantes  Collie   Cocklebiddy   Coolgardie  Coorow   Coral Bay   Corrigin  Cossack  Cranbrook  Cuballing   Cue   Cunderdin  Dalwallinu   Dampier  Darkan  Darlington   Denham   Denmark   Derby   Dirk Hartog Island   Dongara  Donnybrook  Dowerin   Dumbleyung  Dunsborough   Dwellingup   Eneabba   Esperance    Eucla   Exmouth   Fitzroy Crossing  Fremantle    Geraldton  Gingin   Gnowangerup Goomalling  Greenbushes  Greenough Guildford  Gwalia Halls Creek   Harvey  Hopetoun  Horrocks   Hyden  Jerramungup   Jurien Bay  Kalamunda   Kalbarri   Kalgoorlie  Kalumburu   Kambalda   Kanowna  Karratha   Katanning   Kellerberrin   Kojonup  Koorda   Kulin   Kununurra   Kwinana   Lake Argyle Village   Lake Grace  Lancelin   Laverton   Leeman  Leonora   Mandurah  Manjimup  Marble Bar  Margaret River   Meekatharra  Menzies  Merredin  Midland   Mingenew   Monkey Mia  Moora  Moore River  Morowa   Mount Augustus   Mount Barker  Mount Magnet   Mukinbudin  Mullewa   Mundaring  Mundrabilla  Murchison   Nannup   Narembeen  Narrogin   New Norcia   Newman   Norseman  Northam   Northampton  Northcliffe  Nullagine  Nungarin   Ongerup   Onslow  Ora Banda   Pannawonica   Paraburdoo   Pemberton   Perenjori   Perth   Pingelly  Pinjarra  Port Gregory   Port Hedland   Prevelly Park  Quairading  Ravensthorpe   Rockingham  Roebourne  Rottnest Island   Sandstone   Shark Bay   Southern Cross   Tambellup   Tammin   Three Springs   Tom Price   Toodyay   Trayning  Turkey Creek   Wagin   Walpole  Wanneroo   Waroona   Watheroo  Westonia  Whim Creek  Wickepin   Wickham  Williams   Wiluna  Wittenoom  Wongan Hills   Wooramel   Wundowie  Wyalkatchem   Wyndham  Yalgoo  Yallingup  Yanchep  Yarloop  York