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| View of Brisbane from
Captain John Burke's Park under the Story Bridge
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Brisbane
The state capital of Queensland. A modern city
characterised by parks and dominated by the Brisbane River.
In recent times Brisbane has been a frenzy of building
activity as the city has acquired new bridges, freeways,
cultural centres, hotels and office blocks. The visitor
returning to the city after a three year absence could be
forgiven for wondering if they had accidentally arrived at
the wrong destination. It is this aggressive desire for
progress and change which is slowly converting the city.
Of course it must be remembered that Brisbane is no
ordinary state capital. Whereas other states radiate out
from their capital, Queensland, because of its size and its
decentralisation, can claim Brisbane as its centre of
government while acknowledging the regional importance and
status of cities like Townsville and Rockhampton.
To understand Brisbane it is vital to recognise that the
city is full of contradictions. It is an informal place full
of aggressiveness. It is a place of shorts and thongs and
high finance. It is both sophisticated and bucolic. It is a
city in flux. A city eager to change and reluctant to
abandon its old and easier ways.
The nation's fastest-growing capital, Brisbane is
Australia's third-largest city with a population of
1,626,900 in the year 2000. Its climate is sub-tropical with
an average annual rainfall of 1090 mm (most of which falls
between December and March), an average of over seven hours
of sunshine each day, a humidity level which hovers around
50 per cent for all the year, and a temperature range from
10°C in winter to 30°C in summer. The locals will happily
tell you that Brisbane is the only Australian capital city
to enjoy a perfect climate - and who would argue with them.
Brisbane, like so many early settlements along the coast
of eastern Australia, started life as a penal colony. It is
thought that the Ngundanbi and Yagara Aborigines lived along
the banks of the river before Europeans settled the area.
In September 1822 the British government instructed the
Governor of the colony of New South Wales, the Scottish
astronomer and administrator Sir Thomas Brisbane, to send
out exploration parties to Moreton Bay, Port Curtis and Port
Bowen with a view to finding a suitable place for a new
penal colony.
In November 1823 the explorer John Oxley reached the
waters of Moreton Bay. Within days of his arrival he chanced
upon three escaped convicts - Thomas Pamphlett, Richard
Parsons and John Finnegan. The convicts claimed that, while
on wood-cutting expedition, they had been swept out to sea.
Their small vessel had floated north and eventually been
washed up onto the lonely sands of Moreton Island. They had
been found by the local Aborigines who had shown them the
local source of fresh water. This the local convicts duly
showed to Oxley who named it the Brisbane River after the
governor.
Oxley immediately returned to Sydney Town with news of
the discovery. The next year Governor Brisbane sent the
explorer back to Moreton Bay accompanied by 29 convicts, 14
soldiers, the botanist Allan Cunningham, a surgeon and
storekeeper named Walter Scott, and the settlement's first
military commandant, Lieutenant Henry Miller. Before the
small sailing ship Amity left Sydney Cove, Brisbane told
Oxley: 'The Amity is placed under orders for the purpose of
crowning your late discovery of a large river flowing into
Moreton Bay with the formation of a new settlement in its
vicinity. The spot which you select must contain three
hundred acres of land, and be in the neighbourhood of fresh
water. It should lay in the direct course to the mouth of
the river, be easily seen from the offing of ready access.
To difficulty of attack by the natives, it ought to join
difficulty of escape for the convicts.'
Redcliffe
The first European settlement in Queensland.
The first settlement was at Redcliffe on Moreton Bay. Three
months later the site was moved to North Quay on the
Brisbane River. When Chief Justice Forbes arrived in
December 1824 it was decided that the colony should be
called 'Edinglassie' but this was soon rejected for
Brisbane, in recognition of the Governor's important role in
the founding of the colony.
Brisbane has long had a tradition of newness and
consequently it has relatively few genuinely old public
buildings of importance. This can partly be explained by the
city's long history of building in timber and the fact that
in 1864 a fire destroyed many of the city's finest early
buildings. However it should be remembered that Brisbane's
old buildings are gracious and impressive.
Things to see:
1. The Buildings in the City Centre.
There were three major periods of building in Brisbane
during the nineteenth century. The first occurred between
1824 and 1839 when Brisbane was a closed penal colony. It
was during this time that the Old Commissariat and
Observatory Tower (1829) and the Windmill Building (1828)
were constructed using convict labour.
Brisbane was opened to free settlement in 1842 and became
a separate colony on 10 December 1859. In spite of an active
building program during this period only two buildings
survive - the old St Stephens Church and the Deanery.
The last building boom occurred between 1860-1880 when an
impressive array of public buildings including Government
House and Parliament House, both symbols of the city's new
affluence and independence, were built.
The Old Commissariat Store
Of the early settlement only two buildings still stand. The
Old Windmill sometimes known as Observatory Tower and the
Old Commissariat Store at 111 William Street. Built by
convicts when Brisbane was a closed penal colony it is now
the headquarters of the Royal Historical Society of
Queensland.
Reputed to be the state's first stone building it was
constructed with walls which ranged in thickness from 60 cm
to 1.2 m. The first building was completed in 1829 as a two
storey structure but over the period 1886-1926 it was
expanded to three storeys.
Over the years it has been put to a number of different
uses. Originally a store it became the State archives
repository and a migrant depot before becoming the centre
for the Royal Historical Society.
Brisbane City Hall Art Gallery and Museum
One of historic Brisbane's most significant landmarks the
City Hall Art Gallery and Museum complex combines King
George Square, the Brisbane Administration Centre and the
City Plaza Shopping Centre.
The City Hall itself is an interesting example of an
attempt to use English neo-classical architecture in a
modern building. It uses Queensland brown-tinted freestone,
marble, sandstone and timbers. The scale is impressive and
full of old world charm. The main foyer inside King George
Square, for example, uses ornate high vaulted ceilings,
floor mosaics, and crafted timber and plasterwork to great
effect. There is also a huge 16 m sculpture depicting
Queensland protecting her citizens.
The City Hall Art Gallery and Museum was opened by Queen
Elizabeth II in 1977 and contains extensive displays of
paintings, ceramics and photographs.
The clock town, an amazing Italian renaissance number
with rises 91 m above the City Plaza, provides excellent
panoramic views of the city.
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| Looking across the
Brisbane River at the city's skyline and Victoria
Bridge from Montague Street near the Cultural Centre
|
The Queensland Cultural Centre
If the essence of modern Brisbane is a new sense of
sophistication then the Queensland Cultural Centre in some
ways sums up the city's new aspirations.
Brisbane does not enjoy a reputation as an important home
of the arts (in fact southerners tend to regard it as the
home of philistinism and anti-intellectualism). It may be a
reaction to this criticism which led the city to construct
Australia's finest cultural complex which was opened to
coincide with the Brisbane World Expo in 1988. This superb
complex now includes the Queensland Art Gallery, the
Performing Arts Complex, the Queensland Museum and the State
Library.
Located just over the Victoria Bridge from the city's
central business district, the complex was designed by the
local architect Robin Gibson. It has successfully drawn
together, on the banks of the Brisbane River, most of the
city's major cultural activities.
Surrounded by subtropical gardens it consists of the John
Oxley Library (which has the country's most important
collection of books and papers relating to the history of
Queensland), the Queensland Museum with its 2 million items
including the tiny 'Avian Cirrus' aeroplane in which Bert
Hinkler made the first solo flight from England to Australia
in 1928, a number of restaurants, and the Performing Arts
Complex with its Lyric Theatre, Concert Hall and Cremorne
Studio Theatre.
The Art Gallery, in which the State's extensive
collection is housed, is open from 10.00am-5.00pm every day
of the week.
Customs House
With its solid Corinthian columns and its greenish copper
dome the Customs House stands beside the Brisbane River like
a great Victorian matriach. Its position and prominence
ensure that it is one of Brisbane's most impressive
landmarks. It was built by John Petrie between 1886-89 and
features twin pediments with heraldic shields and the words
'Advance Australia', a noble thought although, at the time
of construction, there was no 'Australia'.
St Johns Cathedral
Located at 417 Ann Street, St Johns Cathedral may well lay
claim to be Australia's oldest uncompleted building. This
handsome Gothic cathedral, built in brick and Brisbane
porphyry stone, was started in 1901 and, even today, the
western section remains uncompleted.
However to concentrate on the incompleteness of the
building is to ignore its beauty. The architect John
Loughborough Pearson was chosen to design the building.
Unfortunately he died before the work was completed and his
son finished the design.
Although the cathedral was designed in a Gothic style it
is more than a mere imitation. It is laid out like a
crucifix and has some particularly impressive flying
buttresses and fine rose windows.
The construction of the cathedral has been a never ending
saga. The foundation stone was laid in 1901, the first stage
consecrated in 1910, and new bays completed in 1968. A model
of how the cathedral will eventually look is located in the
church.
The Deanery
Located at 417 Ann Street this gracious, two storey porphyry
stone residence was designed by Andrew Petrie and built for
Dr William Hobbs in 1853.
It has a number of interesting claims to historical
importance being one of the few remaining buildings built
between 1842-59 and once serving as the Governor's residence
(1859-62) while Government House was being built.
Perhaps the Deanery's finest secular moment came in 1859
when the proclamation separating Queensland from New South
Wales was read from the building's east balcony.
General Post Office
Located at 261 Queen Street the General Post Office is
located on the site of the city's original female convict
barracks. Construction on the building was started in 1871
and completed in 1879. It is recognised as a fine example of
a late Victorian Classical Revival building.
When the Central Railway Station was built in Ann Street
at the end of the nineteenth century the architects quite
consciously placed its tower in the centre of the block so
that the towers of the Post Office and the Railway were
aligned.
Although the project had started 59 years earlier it
wasn't until 1930, with the creation of Anzac Square, that
the entire streetscape was completed.
As if to establish the perfect symmetry of the precinct
the War Memorial Shrine, and the bronze equine statue
commemorating the Boer War, was aligned with the towers of
the General Post Office and the railway.
Old Government House
Located between the Queensland Institute of Technology and
the Brisbane River, old Government House was built in 1862
when the population of Brisbane was a mere 6 000 people. A
Classical Revival building it was designed by Charles
Tiffin, built of porphyry and sandstone, and constructed
between 1860-62. It remained the Governor's official
residence until 1910 after which it was used as the first
building of the University of Queensland.
Over the years the building has been subjected to a
number of additions - upper verandah (1873), billiard room
(1899) and southwest balcony (1906).
Old Government House is currently used as the offices for
the National Trust of Queensland. Apart from a range of
publications the National Trust also have a comprehensive
listing of churches, old buildings, historic sites and
landmarks throughout Brisbane.
MacArthur Chambers
Located at the corner of Queen Street and Edward Street,
MacArthur Chambers became important during the latter half
of World War II when General Douglas MacArthur, the
Commander-in-Chief of the South-West Pacific area, used the
building as his headquarters. It is now open for inspection
on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from 10.00 a.m.-3.00p.m.
Monday to Friday.
The Mansions
A superb example of nineteenth century ornateness. The
Mansions were erected as six elegant townhouses in the
1890s. By any measure they were a superb example of a Free
Classical terrace. The deep arcaded verandahs on both floors
give the building a very distinctive appearance. The
building now contains a number of up market shops including
a restaurant (with views over the Botanical Gardens), an
antiquarian print gallery, a bookshop, an antique shop and
the National Trust of Queensland Gift Shop.
Queensland Maritime Museum
The Queensland Maritime Museum is located on the river at
the end of Dock Street almost directly opposite the
Queensland Institute of Technology. An interesting display
of charts, model ships, engines and memorabilia combined
with 'on the water' displays of a World War II frigate and
an old steam tug it will keep the nautical enthusiast
interested for hours.
National Bank Building
Located on the corner of Queen and Creek Streets (308-322
Queen Street) this huge and gracious building is regarded as
the finest Classical Revival building in Australia.
The National Trust's description of the building is more
of a eulogy than a description:
'Constructed from Murphy's Creek sandstone with columns
and carved work in New Zealand Omaru limestone, the National
Bank is considered to be one of Stanley's masterpieces. Its
opulent yet precise composition features two major facades
rising through three spacious levels, dominated by tall
Corinthian columns with ornate pilasters surmounted by a
massive entablature. Early photographs show a pediment above
this feature. Window openings increase in complexity from
the lower to upper levels, featuring a simple arch with
keystone on the ground floor, the addition of discrete
rectangular columns on the first floor and typically
Classical ornate pedimented window mouldings with helix and
small ornamental balconies on the second floor. The interior
features a large banking chamber which is lit naturally by
means of a leaded glass dome and approached via corridor
with a coffer–ceiling. Fine cedar joinery and plaster work,
largely intact and beautifully preserved, are evident
throughout, but are especially noteworthy in the first floor
executive offices and board room. The fireplaces are in
Italian marble and, on the second floor, originally the
residential quarters, the rich treatment is continued.
'The Queensland National Bank was awarded the Government
account in 1879, and in the ensuing years enjoyed
unparalleled dominance of the Colony's finances, having at
one time no less than 65 branches and agencies. In 1948 it
merged with the National Bank. Over the years the building
has been closely connected with the State Government and in
the nineteenth century the cabinet met frequently in its
board room. Many important matters were discussed and
debated within its sanctum, notably the decision to annex
Papua. It is undoubtedly one of the finest Classical Revival
buildings in Australia and is remarkably well preserved both
internally and externally. Virtually unchanged since it was
built, it is a commanding presence in the inner city
precinct and of incalculable architectural significance with
memorable historical links with the National Bank,
Queensland State Government and the development of Brisbane
City.
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| Queensland's Parliament
House |
Parliament House
Immediately after Queensland was declared a separate colony
in 1859, Brisbane saw the large and gracious Parliament
House building rising on the hill above the Botanical
Gardens.
The colonial architect, Charles Tiffin, was awarded the
commission to build Parliament House after he had won an
Australia wide competition with his unusual imitation of the
French Renaissance style. The building was started in 1865,
first occupied in 1868, and finally completed in 1889. It is
characterised by solid colonnades which keep the building
cool in summer, some truly magnificent timber work which was
executed in local Queensland timbers, and an impressive and
gracious interior.
St Stephens Cathedral
Located in Elizabeth Street St Stephens Church, sometimes
known as Pugin's Chapel, is the city's oldest church. Built
in 1850 and attributed to the English architect Auguste
Welby Pugin it is a simple Gothic sandstone church. It was
replaced by the new St Stephens Cathedral, which now stands
next to the old building, in 1874. The 'new' cathedral was
built between 1863-74 to a design by Benjamin Backhouse.
Story Bridge
The main access point from the west the Story Bridge looms
large in the minds of residents of Brisbane. It is the
bridge to walk over if you want a superb view of the city
centre. It is the bridge which people run over once a year.
And it is the one bridge which is really elevated above the
river in a dramatic way.
The Story Bridge's one claim to fame lies in the poor
bedrock of Brisbane. Unlike Sydney, which is built on
sandstone, Brisbane basically lies on sand. In order to
construct the Story Bridge it was necessary to dig down 40.2
m to establish a firm foundation. This means that the bridge
can boast one of the deepest foundations in the world.
Victoria Bridge
Although it is not the oldest bridge across the Brisbane
River (the William Jolly Bridge can claim that distinction)
the Victoria Bridge can claim an impressive list of
antecedents. It is the third bridge to be built on a site
which was used as the earliest European crossing point.
A pylon from the second bridge (1897) has been retained
as a monument and is now listed on the National Estate. On
the pylon is a plaque to a Greek boy who was killed during
the World War I victory celebrations in 1918.
The Victoria Bridge runs from the Central Business
District across the river to the Performing Arts Complex and
the Queensland Cultural Centre.
Victoria Barracks Military Museum
Located in Petrie Terrace the old Victoria Barracks were
built between 1864-74 to a design which had been drawn up by
the War Office in London. The original barracks, which
consisted of an officers quarters, barrack blocks, guard
room and kitchen, were completed in 1864. Three years later
a soldier's hospital and superintendents house was built and
in 1874 the police stables were completed.
Today the barracks are a military museum housing weapons,
old uniforms, photographs and memorabilia.
The Museum is open from 11.30 am - 4.30 pm on the second
Sunday of the month. Contact (07) 233 4296 for details.
The former Windmill Building or the Observatory
One of the only two buildings in Brisbane which remain from
the city's convict era, this rendered stone and brick
building, located in Wickham Terrace, dates back to 1828
when the unloved Captain Patrick Logan was Commandant of the
Colony.
While it was originally built as a windmill (the colony's
first industrial building) it was soon converted to a
treadmill where convicts rather than the wind drove the
machinery. By the end of the nineteenth century an
observation platform and cabin had been built and it had
become known locally as 'the observatory'.
In 1930 the building was used for some interesting early
experiments with television.
2. The Parks and Gardens
If Brisbane has a small number of interesting historic
buildings it certainly has no shortage of parks. There are
nearly 200 parks and reserves within the 97 200 hectares
administered by the Brisbane City Council. These range from
Mount Coot-tha Reserve which covers 1 142 hectares and
offers spectacular views of the city and Moreton Bay to
small city parks where the weary shopper and tourist can
rest their tired legs after sightseeing and bargain hunting.
|
| A family picnic in
Brisbane's Botanical Gardens |
The City Botanical Gardens
The City Botanical Gardens cover over 20 hectares of land
and are one of the city's unambiguous showpieces.
Beautifully located on the banks of the Brisbane River and
spreading over the gentle slopes and undulations below
Parliament House and the Old Government House, the gardens
are a peaceful respite from the bustle of the Central
Business District.
The Botanic Gardens date back to the earliest years of
European settlement. Long before 1855, when they were
formally laid out by Walter Hill, the first Gardens
Director, the area had been used as a vegetable garden.
Hill planted rows of bunya pines and introduced plants
like the poinciana and jacaranda. He also built a fountain
in 1867 and planted a row of weeping figs.
The sub-tropical climate, combined with the rich soils of
the riverbank, ensures a permanent display of spectacular
colours and heady fragrances of frangipanis, orchids,
oleanders, flame trees, bougainvilleas and jacarandas. A
walk through the gardens, particularly a walk along the
river bank, is a must for every visitor to the city.
|
| The Japanese Gardens at
the Mt Cool-Tha Gardens |
Mount Coot-tha Botanical Gardens and Reserve
In recent times a second, and equally spectacular, Botanic
Gardens has been opened on Mount Coot-tha Road. Located off
Mt Coot-tha Road in Toowong only ten minutes from the city
centre, the Mt Coot-tha Gardens are reputed to be
Australia's largest sub-tropical display of flora. They
cover an area of 57 ha in which plants are set against an
environment of lakes, ponds, and streams. There are
literally thousands of tropical plants housed in the unusual
Tropical Dome indoor display. Of particular interest are the
Japanese Gardens, a delightful and quiet retreat. Nearby is
the Exotic Rainforest and beyond it are the sections of
bunya forest, Bougainvilleas, Australian Rainforest, Open
Eucalypt Forest, Melaleuca Wetlands and a section devoted to
Western Australian Flora. The Gardens also contain a
Planetarium and, at the top of the hill, there is an
impressive lookout. It would be easy to spend a day
wandering around the gardens. They also have a good
restaurant and gift shop and there are plenty of locations
where a picnic under the trees is possible.
3. Around Brisbane
It is impossible to list all the attractions and historic
buildings which exist in Greater Brisbane. Any city with
over 1 million people sprawling for over 20 km in every
direction from the Central Business District inevitably has
endless places of interest. Many of the places just beyond
the outskirts of the city (Bribie Island), or places of
historical importance (Moreton Bay and Redcliffe) have been
treated as separate entries in the Brisbane region.
The superb The Heritage of Australia: The Illustrated
Register of the National Estate (Macmillan 1981) lists no
fewer than 103 buildings and sites of national significance
in the Greater Brisbane area.
Coochiemudlo Island
Known affectionately as 'Coochie', Coochiemudlo Island was
discovered by Matthew Flinders in 1799 and has largely
remained untouched since then. A re-enactment of his landing
is an excuse for general festivities each year in July. The
island is still a haven for birdlife and exotic tropical
plants including wildflowers, fresias, casaurinas and palm
trees. The island is only 130 ha in area and it offers fine
views of Moreton Bay, relaxing, attractive environs and
tranquil waters for fishing, swimming, sailing, windsurfing
or paddle boats. The island has a nine-hole golf course,
tennis and croquet facilities and it can be explored on
foot, by bicycle, tandem bicycle or bus tour. Craft markets
are also held regularly.
Access to the island is via ferry or vehicle barge from
Victoria Point jetty, at the end of Colburn Ave.
Kingsford Smith Memorial
10 km from the city centre on Airport Drive near the new
Brisbane Airport is the famous 'Southern Cross' which
Charles Kingsford Smith flew in the epic the first crossing
of the Pacific Ocean. The plane was built by Fokker in
Holland in 1926 and later modified by the Douglas Aircraft
Company in America. The plane made the Pacific crossing in
terrible weather, stopping at Fiji and arriving in Brisbane
on 8 June 1928. In 1929 it was involved in the famous, or
'infamous', attempt to fly to England which resulted in
Kingsford Smith and his crew being forced to land on the
coast of Western Australia. At the time there was much
controversy as some people suggested that the forced landing
had been nothing more than a publicity stunt. It then
completed the journey to London in 12 days and 18 hours and,
after being rebuilt by Fokker, flew across the Atlantic thus
completing an around-the-world journey. It was bought by the
Federal Government for £3000 in 1935 and eventually found a
permanent home at the Brisbane airport.
Newstead House
One of the many superb buildings in suburban Brisbane,
Newstead House (located on the riverside at Breakfast Creek
Road, Newstead) was built in 1846 for the pastoralist
Patrick Leslie. It became the residence of Captain Wickham
from 1847-59. The most intriguing feature about the house is
that it is actually a two storey dwelling masquerading as a
single storey house. It was Captain Wickham who built the
verandah around the house, extended and raised the ground
level. The impression is of a sumptuous one storey dwelling.
Today it is recognised as one of Brisbane's oldest and most
impressive residences.
Newstead House is open for public inspection Monday to
Friday 10.00am to 4.00pm and Sundays and some public
holidays from 2.00pm - 5.00pm. The last admission is one
half hour prior to advertised closing times. Saturdays are
set aside for wedding ceremonies and functions and a
traditional Devonshire Tea is served March - November
inclusive 2.00pm to 4.30pm with other refreshments available
on weekdays with prior notice.
St Helena Island
Now owned and run by the Queensland National Parks and
Wildlife Service (tel: 07 3396 5113), St Helena Island
contains the ruins of one of Queensland's major prisons. The
oldest ruins on the island date from 1866 when a quarantine
station, using a combination of locally hewn stones and hand
made bricks, was constructed. Within a year the building had
been converted to a prison. At its peak St Helena prison
held 300 prisoners. It was downgraded to a prison farm in
1921 and finally abandoned in 1933.
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