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| A solitary mangrove sits
in the mud at Cape Tribulation |
Cape Tribulation
Hidden in dense rainforest, this is the site where
Captain Cook ran aground on the Great Barrier Reef.
It was Captain James Cook who first sighted the stretch of
coastline known as Cape Tribulation. His diary entries for
the night of Sunday 10 June and the morning of Monday 11
June 1770 explain how he arrived at the name.
'The shore between Cape Grafton and the above northern
point forms a large but not very deep bay, which I named
Trinity Bay, after the day on which it was discover'd; the
north point Cape Tribulation because here began all our
troubles.
'Before 10 o'clock (p.m.) we had 20 and 21 fathoms and
continued in that depth until a few minutes before 11, when
we had 17, and before the man at the lead could heave
another cast the ship struck and stuck fast.'
It was off the coast that the H.M. Barque Endeavour ran
onto the reef now known as Endeavour Reef. It managed to
limp to the Endeavour River near present-day Cooktown where,
for some months, it was laid up for repairs.
Today the area is part of the 16 965-ha Cape Tribulation
National Park, a site of breathtaking beauty with rugged
mountain ranges rising sharply behind the narrow coastal
strip, dense rainforest tumbling down the mountains to the
beaches, and a bewilderingly rich variety of flora.
The road from Daintree to Cape Tribulation is less than
magnificent, mainly because of the seemingly endless number
of tours which make the daily journey from Cairns and Port
Douglas. It is a partly sealed dirt road which is passable
to conventional vehicles in good weather.
Beyond Cape Tribulation the road, built by the local
council in 1983 despite vigorous protests from
environmentalists, is one of the worst roads in Australia.
It is an ugly dirt-red gash across the face of the
rainforest which bleeds mud into the ocean whenever it
rains. It is for 4WD vehicles only. See Cooktown for further
details.
A passionate environmentalist account of the building of
the road - the politics, the protests, the arguments for and
against the construction of any kind of roadway through the
rainforest - accompanied by some excellent photographs, has
been written by members of the Douglas Shire Wilderness
Action Group. It is called The Trials of Tribulation and can
be purchased from Wilderness Action Group, P.O. Box 116,
Port Douglas.
Things to see:
Cape Tribulation National Park
Covering 16 965 ha this is a site of breathtaking beauty
with rugged mountain ranges rising sharply behind the narrow
coastal strip, dense rainforest tumbling down the mountains
to the beaches, and a bewilderingly rich variety of flora.
The rainforest boasts extremely ancient species of fern
which have been on earth for over 100 million years,
including both the beautiful flowering Idiospermum
australiense and the Angiopteris, the world's largest fern.
At Cape Tribulation the National Parks and Wildlife
Service have made life easy for visitors by providing a
cement path and boardwalk through the rainforest to the
headland where a lookout point affords excellent views
across the bay. For those wishing to explore further there
are a number of excellent rainforest walking trails. Many of
the local tour operators offer excursions into the
rainforest.
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