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The ferry from French Island brings a truck to Corinella
 

French Island
Fascinating historic island south of Melbourne
French Island is located in Westernport Bay, to the south-east of Melbourne. It measures 18 km by 12 km, has a coastline of 144 km, encompasses 21 800 ha and has a population of less than 60 people. Remarkably, French Island has escaped development over the years and two-thirds of the land mass have recently been declared a State Park. Thus its many natural attractions have been preserved, largely intact.

The island's coastline is predominately salt marsh with flourishing mangroves on the mudflats. The interior is mostly heathland with magnificent wildflower displays in spring. There are around 600 plant species and a great diversity of birdlife (234 species), including the white-breasted sea eagle, as well as mutton-bird, pelican and ibis rookeries. There are short-tailed shearwater colonies at Tankerton and Tortoise Head and there is a good deal of birdlife at Elizabeth Bluff.

French Island supports Australia's largest koala community; so much so that it now exports to the mainland and to international zoos. The koalas can be seen throughout the island, including the recreation hall and post office at Tankerton where the ferries dock. The rare potoroo has also found a niche on French Island as there have been no incursions by foxes, their main predator. They can be seen in bushy areas throughout the island.

The first known European to sight the island was George Bass who entered Westernport Bay in 1798. However, he mistook it for a promontory of the mainland. It was named Western Island in 1802 by Lieutenant John Murray who examined it from the Lady Nelson. Later that year it was visited by a French scientific expedition, led by Nicholas Baudin, which was exploring southern Australia. Although France was at war with Britain at the time the expedition was granted immunity by the British Admiralty. The visitors named it Ile de France or Ile de Francoise; hence its present name. Sealers inhabited the island in subsequent years.

The island's mangroves were burned in the 1840s for reduction to barilla, a plant ash rich in soda and potassium which was used in the production of glass and soap. However, heavy rains washed away most of the ash and the endeavour was abandoned.

The first pastoral run was established in the early 1850s. Two salt works were started in subsequent years. When Richard Cheetham's venture proved unsuccessful he moved to Geelong where he founded the Cheetham Salt Works.

During the 1890s depression the government oversaw the establishment of six settlements. Only one family made a go of it, growing chicory, a coffee additive which they roasted in kilns. This enterprise continued until the emergence of instant coffee in the 1960s. The brick homesteads and outbuildings associated with these settlements remain scattered about the island.

From 1915 until 1975 the island was home to McLeod Prison and the associated farm. It housed over 100 inmates serving the last periods of their sentences and was noted for its golf course, and its basketball and tennis courts. It was also the first Australian prison to introduce television in the 1950s. The old gaol is now an accommodation centre, situated amidst national parkland, and a large organic farm offering conducted tours of the old prison facilities.

Sheep and cattle graze on the island today although tourism is now the main support to the island's tiny population of about 65 people. The largely unspoilt ecosystem is a major attraction for holiday-makers and nature lovers. It is an excellent spot for walking, nature studies, bus tours and bicycling, and there are three camping grounds.

 

Things to see:   [Top of page]

Access
Access is via Interisland Ferries, tel: (03) 9585 5730, or contact their web-site at www.interislandferries.com.au

They relay passengers to and from Tankerton Jetty on French Island with pick-up points being Stony Point Jetty and Cowes Jetty on Phillip Island. From Stony Point the trip takes ten minutes. It departs at 8.30 a.m. and 4.15 p.m. daily. In addition there are services at 10.00 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, at midday on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, and at 7.00 p.m. on Fridays. The return trips depart daily at 9.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m., with extra trips at 10.15 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, at 1.00 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, and at 7.15 p.m. on Fridays.

From Cowes Jetty, the trip takes twenty minutes. It departs at 9.10 a.m. daily. In addition there are services at 12.40 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. The return trips depart at 8.40 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. daily, with extra services at 12.10 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, and at 7.15 p.m. on Fridays.

Single fares cost $8.50 for adults, $6.50 for approved concessions, $4.00 for children (aged 4-12) and $2.00 for bicycles. Return trips are double the price.

Prospective visitors should note that cars cannot be ferried to the island. However, there are coach tours and the island is ideal for cycling (you can bring your own or rent one). The other mode of transport is foot power.

 

Tourist Information and Campgrounds
French Island Tourist Information Centre is located at Lot 4, Bayview Rd, tel: (03) 5980 1241. The centre is associated with a privately owned campground at the same address. Parks Victoria have a basic campground at Fairhaven with toilets and fresh water. It is 5 km north of Tankerton on the west coast foreshore. No fires are permitted so bring a gas stove. There is also a campground associated with the old prison (see subsequent entry).

 

Coach Tours
Two companies offer coach trips (lasting about four hours) which take in the island's flora and fauna, its history and McLeod Eco-Farm (see entry below). Both operate out of Stony Point. French Island Eco-Tours depart at 12.00 p.m. daily on Thursdays and Sundays and offer other times by arrangement. Their scheduled tours can be taken with or without lunch and a feature of the tour is the McLeod Eco Farm and the former "reform prison." They also specialise in group tours or camps for schools, clubs and church groups. An organic lunch and expert commentary is provided, tel: (1300) 307 054 or, after hours, tel: (0429) 177 532.

French Island Bus Tours operate their full tour on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Sundays and public holidays, and on Saturdays in the school holidays. Afternoon teas are held at the Bayview Chicory Kiln (1897), where there are farm animals for the entertainment of children. Tours depart from Stony Point at midday and return at 4.45 p.m. The company also operates a service for groups of eight or more, transporting parties to bushwalking areas on the island. Optional extras are a guide, a pick-up service at the end of the day, and afternoon tea. Luncheons can also be provided on request for casual cyclists and campers, tel: (03) 5980 1241.

 

McLeod Eco-Farm and Historical Prison
From 1915 until 1975 the island was home to McLeod Prison and the associated prison farm. It housed over 100 inmates serving the last periods of their sentences and was noted for its golf course, and its basketball and tennis courts. It was also the first Australian prison to introduce television in the 1950s.

McLeods is now a large organic farm and an accommodation centre situated amidst the island's extensive natural bushlands. It offers beds in the old cells for up to 150 people. Rooms range in quality from the basic to deluxe. There is a bicycle-hire service for guests, a conducted tour of the old prison facilities, a restaurant and self-catering facilities. The whole is set upon 558 acres with a beach frontage. Ring (03) 5678 0155 for bookings and further information.

 

Walking and Bicycling
There are short, half-day and full-day walks on the island. All start at Tankerton Foreshore Reserve. Guides to the routes and other information are available from an information board located next to Tankerton Jetty (where the ferry docks). The landscape is essentially flat to gently undulating. One of the destinations is the Pinnacles, 3 km north-east of Tankerton Jetty, which, at 60 metres, affords a fine prospect over the wetlands of the island's west, of Westernport Bay and of Phillip Island. Ring Parks Victoria on 131 963 for further information or go to their web-site at www.parkweb.vic.gov.au. The Park office is located on Bayview Rd.

The island is ideal for cycling but the terrain is often wet and sandy so a mountain bike is most suitable. You can bring your own or hire one from the French Island General Store/Post Office, tel: (03) 5980 1209. Note that fresh drinking water is scarce on the island so it is best to bring your own.

 

 

 

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French Island