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Omeo Post Office with the town in the background
 

Omeo
Historic goldmining town on the edges of the Snowy Mountains.
Omeo is an old goldmining town in the mountain country 97 km north of Bruthen and 400 km north-east of Melbourne via the Princes and Omeo Highways. Now a quiet and sleepy township of around 300 people, based on cattle, sheep and timber, it was once a rugged, unruly frontier town. Indeed, the first magistrate, Judge Browne, better known as early Australian novelist Rolf Boldrewood (famous for his novel Robbery Under Arms), regarded the Omeo goldfields as the roughest in Australia.

The area was first sighted by Europeans when pioneer naturalist, John Lhotsky, claimed, in 1834, to have seen, from the southern alps, a wide plain that the Aborigines called 'Omeo'. The indigenous peoples gathered quartz crystals, which they believed to possess supernatural qualities, from the Omeo River. The Omeo Highway follows the route they used for making contacts with other groups.

In 1835 George McKillop journeyed south from Monaro in New South Wales in search of new pastures. Another member of the party, James McFarlane, returned and founded what was probably the first cattle station in Victoria - Omeo B at what is now Benambra - which he sold in 1859. In his novel, Providence Ponds (1950), Stanley Porteous described the sight which greeted the original settlers:

The creek valleys narrowed, the forests closed in, until suddenly the Omeo basin fairly burst upon us - an open treeless plain, encircled by a rim of mountains upon which the peaks of Mount Tambo and the Three Brothers stood out distinctly....from its expanse came the shimmer of two lakes, one large, one tiny.'

John Pendergast arrived with his two brothers in 1836 or 1837 and established the Mount Leinster station. His family, Welsh immigrants who had settled for several generations in Ireland, are perhaps the most prominent pioneers of the district as the other early families soon moved further south. Pendergast's descendants still live at Pendergast's Court. A hut from the property, built in 1868, is now on display in Omeo's historical park in the centre of town.

Another early settler, John Hyland, settled west of Morass Creek but sold his run to Edward Cooke in 1841. Cooke bred thoroughbred horses for the army of India and shipped his cattle to Van Dieman's Land by way of Port Albert. He later sold Hinnomunjie station, from two Aboriginal words supposedly meaning 'no fish', and bought a run at Holey Plains, near today's Rosedale (see entry on Rosedale).

Angus McMillan rested in the Omeo vicinity in 1839 while following an Aboriginal track south to establish Numblamunjie station on behalf of Lachlan Macalister. The name was changed to Ensay in 1844 by Archibald Macleod, after an island off the coast of Scotland. McMillan used the station as a base for his extensive and ground-breaking explorations of Gippsland to the south.

 

The road between Bruthen and Omeo
 

During the 1840s squatters moving south into Gippsland used the area as a transit camp. However, the history of Omeo changed in 1851 when pioneering geologist, Reverend W.B. Clarke, while travelling south from Sydney on an expedition, discovered gold at Livingstone Creek, named after another member of McKillop's original party.

Two years later, when the population of Gippsland was little more than 300, there were 70 men, all living in 30 tents, panning for alluvial gold along Livingstone Creek. However, its isolation and the mountainous terrain ensured that development and population growth remained slow. Indicative of the difficulties was the fact that the 80-km journey from Ensay to Bairnsdale took four days on horseback. It was also a 9-day walk from the goldfields in the Ovens Valley. The population was still no more than 600 in 1863. Movement increased when a track was cut between Port Albert and Bairnsdale. An influx of miners occurred and new goldfields opened at Gibbo, Dry Gully, Cassilis, Dartmouth, Brookville, the Wombat and Stirling. The unruliness of the situation was not helped by the fact that no police were present at the site until 1858. Initially, the gold warden from Yackandandah only visited the field twice a year.

The goldrush reached its peak in the 1860s. Land settlement began in 1870 and Omeo was declared a municipality in 1872. A Wesleyan Church was opened in 1870, with the Roman Catholic Church following in 1874, the Church of England in 1892 and the Presbyterian Church in 1894. However, the stock of alluvial gold began to disappear and with it went many of the miners. Chinese people moved into the area to work the tailings and established market gardens.

A new boom began when reef gold was located at Sunnyside, Dry Gully, Glen Wills and Cassilis. Heavy machinery to work the reefs was hauled over the mountains by bullock teams and hydraulic dredges were in operation in the 1880s. However, this supply too was soon exhausted and the fields were abandoned by the start of the First World War. The town suffered earthquakes in 1885 and 1892 and considerable damage was caused by the infamous 'Black Friday' bushfires of 1939.

Although tin was mined at Glen Wills, Pilot Creek and Limestone it was cattle and sheep which came to the fore with the end of the gold days and cattle are still put out to pasture on the high plains every summer. The annual sale, each March, of "cold country" herefords is a major event on the local calendar. A rodeo is also held each year.

Incidents of the Omeo gold days provided source material for two landmark novelists of Australian literature, Henry Kingsley and Rolf Boldrewood. In The Hillyars and the Burtons (1865), Kingsley wrote of a number of diggers who died crossing the Great Dividing Range while returning from a futile rush from Beechworth to the Omeo area in 1854, having heard the tale that year at Beechworth from survivors of the trek. Boldrewood wrote of the lawlessness of the area in Robbery Under Arms (1888) and in Nevermore, where he dealt with the rustling of the Kelly Gang (the Lawless brothers in the novel), the murder of Cornelius Green (Con Gray) and the celebrated case of Tichborne, the heir to his family's title and estates in England, who disappeared in the goldfields.

 


 

 

Things to see:   [Top of page]

 

Water wheel in the A.M. Pearson Historical Park
 

A.M. Pearson Historical Park
In the main street of Omeo is the A.M. Pearson Historical Park which contains the original courthouse (1865) and its Romanesque successor (1892), designed by A.J. MacDonald, who was also responsible for the neo-Gothic post office at South Yarra in Melbourne and the courthouse in Bairnsdale. The original log lock-up (1858) is representative of both vernacular log construction techniques and of the penal accommodation provided by the Public Works Department of Victoria. The exterior of this solid structure is comprised of hardwood logs, while the ceiling and internal walls are made from blackwood. An iron-bar grille door and slit windows are the only openings. The gaol was originally surrounded by a high fence and an armed guard watched over the proceedings from an elevated sentry box. Prior to its construction, prisoners were kept in leg irons in the warden's camp on the banks of Commissioner's Gully. Other buildings in the park are the old stables (1858), a blacksmith's shop, a water wheel, a post office built in the 1890s and a small indoor museum. The town's first state school (1866) is also extant. Contact (03) 5159 1445. The Park is open on weekends, public holidays and by appointment.

 

Tourist Information and General Activities
An information centre is currently being built in town adjacent to (and in association with) the Omeo German Cuckoo Clock Shop and Gallery on the Great Alpine Rd, tel: (03) 5159 1552. It also furnishes maps of and books about the historic area. Fishing in the local waters can be rewarding, especially for those seeking trout. Gold pans can be hired from the shire office and fishing equipment, bikes and skis can be hired from Omeo Outdoors. Horseback safaris of the area are also on offer in the warmer months.

 

Petersens Gallery
Resident artist Terry Petersen executes traditional landscape paintings of the high country and its history. He is open from Wednesday to Monday on Day Ave, tel: (03) 5159 1262.

 

Benambra and Lookouts
On the road to the picturesque township of Benambra, 23 km north-east, are McMillan's Lookout (933 metres) - which provides panoramic views of Omeo, the Victorian alps and the surrounding countryside - and Hinomunjie station, where portions of the original homestead are still standing.

A few kilometres north-east of Benambra are the Three Brothers, three mountain peaks named after the Pendergast brothers. For mountain climbers, McFarlane's Lookout is further north. Directions can be obtained at Benambra. As an alternative, follow the Lake Omeo Road out of Benambra, around Lake Omeo and on to Mount Blowhard for an excellent view of the valley. The road to the left leads back to Omeo.

 

Knocker Track
7 km north along the Omeo Highway is the turnoff on the right onto Omeo Valley Rd. 12 km along this road, and 1 km below the Hinomunjie Bridge, the sealed section runs out. Those with four-wheel drives may wish to turn left in order to explore the interesting 17-km Knocker Track, formerly the old Omeo to Glen Wills and Sunnyside coach road. It rejoins the highway between Glen Wills and Sunnyside.

 

Anglers Rest
Parts of the highway to the north are unsealed and can be snow-bound in winter although the scenery is quite stunning. 29 km north of Omeo along the highway is a tranquil and popular fishing, canoeing and bushwalking spot known as Anglers Rest, situated on the Cobungra River. The Blue Duck Inn offers accommodation (tel: 03 5159 7220).

 

Rocky Valley Rd
40 km north of Omeo is a turnoff to the left into the Rocky Valley Road which leads to Falls Creek alpine village and the Bogong high plains where bushwalking and fishing expeditions are popular. Kangaroos, wallabies and emus can be seen in the area and the wildflowers which bloom in the late spring are worth seeing. The road is unsealed to Falls Creek (36 km) and closed in the ski season.

 

Glen Valley, Glen Wills and Mt Wills
48 and 51 km respectively from Omeo are the tiny old goldmining settlements of Glen Valley and Glen Wills. Further north you will see Mt Wills (1750 m) to the left. The summit offers excellent views of the Alps. It can be accessed along the Australian Alps Walking Track (655 km) which crosses the highway at Sunnyside. For further information ring 131 963.

 

 

Dry Gully Suspension Bridge
 

Remnants of the Goldrush Days at Livingstone Creek
On the Alpine Road to Mount Hotham about 1 km from the centre of town small gold workings can be seen along the banks of Livingstone Creek, where gold panning can still be practiced by the eternally hopeful. Spanning the creek, a little upstream from the new Dry Gully Suspension Bridge, is the Memorial, built as a practical war memorial by returned diggers in 1919. On the far side of the old bridge is a parking area and a sign which points the way along a walking track which crosses the creek by footbridge then moves along the river banks and past the old brick pumping station. Beyond are the old 'oriental claims' where Chinese workers operated the world's largest hydraulic sluicing operation. This historic site is surrounded by man-made cliffs up to 30 metres in height which still have minute traces of gold. Old tunnels can be seen in the hillside. The entrance to one of these tunnels is accessible from the path which leads to the main area of the claims.

The earth which comprises the huge cliffs was shifted with water. To this end a dam was built 19 km away, up Livingstone Creek. The water was carried by races, which can still be seen along the sides of the valley, to a level well above the site of the operations. It was then pumped through pressure nozzles which were used to spray water at high velocity against the cliffs. The gravel was washed into trenches, in which were placed sluice boxes to catch the gold. The silt and water flowed into the creek while larger rocks were removed by hand. The size of the stones in the mullock heaps suggests how difficult the labour could be. Pieces of petrified wood can also be found in the rock piles. Mount Kosciusko can be seen from Mount Kosciusko Lookout, a little further along the Alpine Road.

 

Victoria Falls
25 km west of Omeo are the Victoria Falls, on the Victoria River. The state's first hydro-electric scheme was established here in 1908 to supply power to the Cassilis mines. To this end the water from the falls was used to drive a large turbine. However, the operation was not very successful due to water shortages and it was sold off to a Tasmanian concern in 1916. This site has also been declared an historic area.

 

Exploring the Surrounding Area
The approach to Omeo along the Omeo Highway, via Bruthen, winds north for almost 100 km along sealed roads beside the Tambo River. It essentially follows the route of the first European travellers. En route are a number of curiously-named historic sites: Monkey Creek (7 km north of Bruthen) was named by Angus McMillan after the "monkey bears" (koalas); Walsh's Cutting (15 km north) after a coach driver who died when a brake failure caused his vehicle to plummet down the hill; 1000-Pound Bend after either the cost of repairs and insurance when two coaches collided or the cost of constructing the road at this troublesome spot; Barksleds (24 km) after huts built on the bank above the present site to house wattle bark; Piano Bridge Creek (27 km) after the tendency of the old bridge's panels to bounce up and down like piano keys. In the same area the Pig and Whistle is said to be the spot where railway surveyors collected their liquor when their boss denied them access to the local hotel. Jew's Pinch (30 km) immortalises a Jewish hawker whose vehicle met with difficulties at this spot. Lock-Up Creek (33 km) was once the site of a lock-up built to house prisoners in transit from Omeo to Bairnsdale behind the Sir Walter Scott Motel, since burned down. Snake's Back (35 km) recalls the old road's curvature. Haunted Stream (35 km) is named after its connection with the murder of Ballarat Harry; Name Stone Point (36 km) after a stone, now gone, which was adorned with travellers' doodlings; Dead Horse Flat (39 km) after a horse which was dragged along for some distance, dead, after being tied by a halter, while still alive, to the rear of its owner's wagon. Mr Stringy, at the same location, was cut from a tree by a member of a 1920s bridge gang. Battle Point (41 km) was named after a fight between two bullock drivers or road foremen and Devil's Backbone (45 km) after the tortuous nature of the country. There are also some fine swimming holes, bushwalks and fishing spots along the road.

The first significant town to be reached is Tambo Crossing, formerly the point at which the overland track from Port Albert crossed the waterway. The road continues north, passing through open country with mountains on either side of the river valley, to Ensay, once celebrated for its wool production. Here the road crosses the Tambo River then winds away for 12 km until it recrosses the river at Doctor's Flat, named after the physician and companion of Angus McMillan, the first doctor in the area. Off the main road in a peaceful setting and surrounded by fords is the Little River Inn, stylistically similar to the original inn built in Ensay in the late nineteenth century. Further north is Swift's Creek. In its heyday it was the central town of the Tambo Valley, with cattle and sheep markets, a prosperous butter factory, a bank and numerous stores. An old historic homestead in the mountains, erected on the pastoral run of P.V. Buckley -at the time the most isolated station in East Gippsland - is 'Bindi', which retains outbuildings such as the sheep wash and woolshed, built at different times and with different materials. The sleeping quarters and cookhouse were constructed in the 1850s of local stone and the timber slab dwelling was erected shortly thereafter. The homestead itself was also built of local stone, in 1880. Later work mostly entailed the extension and enhancement of the existing structures.

The remaining distance from Swifts Creek to Omeo can be covered along the Omeo Highway or a more picturesque and historic route can be pursued by turning left along the good gravel road to Tongio West and Cassilis, once goldmining centres of sufficient importance to cause the Omeo coach service, at the turn of the century, to shift its regular route away from the main road so as to take in the newer towns. The remnants of the ten-head Warden Battery, used in the 1890s for reef mining, can be found at Tongio West. Old weatherboard cottages are scattered around the valley and parts of another old battery are evident at Cassilis. Leavings of brightly coloured sand still trickle down the valley in this area. Between Swift's Creek and Omeo the road rises over 300 metres.

 

Other Activities
Fishing in the local waters can be rewarding, especially for those seeking trout. Gold pans can be hired from the shire office and fishing equipment, bikes and skis can be hired from Omeo Outdoors. Horseback safaris of the area are also on offer in the warmer months.

 

 

 

 

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Victoria

Aireys Inlet  Alberton Alexandra Anakie  Anglesea Antwerp  Apollo Bay  Apsley Ararat Australian Businesses for sale Avenel  Avoca   Bacchus Marsh  Bairnsdale  Ballan  Ballarat  Balmoral Bannockburn   Barmah   Barwon Heads  Bass   Baxter  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Beaufort  Beech Forest Beechworth  Belgrave  Bells Beach  Benalla Bendigo Berwick  Beulah Beveridge Birchip  Blackwood  Bogong Boort  Box Hill Bright Broadford  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bruthen  Buchan Buckland  Buninyong Businesses for sale Camperdown Cann River Cape Otway Caravan Parks for sale  Carisbrook Casterton Castlemaine  Charlton  Chewton  Chiltern  Churchill  Clunes  Cobden  Cobram Cohuna Colac  Coleraine  Corinella  Corryong  Cowes Craigieburn  Cranbourne Cressy  Creswick Croydon  Dandenong Dargo  Daylesford Derrinallum Dimboola Donald  Donnybrook Spa Dromana Drouin Drysdale Dunkeld  Dunolly Eaglehawk Echuca  Edenhope Eildon Eldorado Eltham Emerald Euroa Falls Creek Farms for sale  Ferntree Gully Flinders Foster Frankston French Island  Geelong Genoa Gisborne  Glenrowan Goroke Grantville Graytown  Great Western Guildford Halls Gap Hamilton Harcourt Harrietville  Harrow Hastings  Healesville Heathcote Heidelberg Hepburn Springs Heyfield  Heywood Hopetoun Horsham Hotels for sale  Inglewood Inverleigh Inverloch Inverloch Jamieson Jeparit  Kallista Kalorama  Kaniva Katamatite Keilor  Kerang Kilmore Kinglake Koondrook  Koo-wee-rup Korumburra Koroit  Kyabram Kyneton Lake Bolac Lake Condah Lakes Entrance Lake Tyers Lancefield Lavers Hill Leongatha Licola Lilydale Lismore Lorne Macarthur  Maffra Maldon Mallacoota Malmsbury  Mansfield Management Rights for sale  Marlo Maryborough Marysville Meeniyan Melbourne  Melton Melville Caves Meredith Metung Milawa Mildura Minyip  Mirboo North Mitta Mitta Moe-Yallourn Moliagul  Monbulk  Mornington Mortlake Morwell  Motels for sale  Mount Beauty Mount Buffalo Mount Buller  Mount Hotham  Mount Macedon Mount Baw Baw Moyston Murchison  Murrayville Murtoa  Myrtleford Nagambie Nathalia Natimuk  Nelson Newhaven Nhill  Noojee  Numurkah  Nyah West  Ocean Grove Olinda Omeo Orbost Ouyen Pakenham Patchewollock Paynesville Penshurst  Peterborough Phillip Island Point Lonsdale Pomonal Poowong Port Albert  Port Fairy Port Welshpool Portarlington Portland  Portsea  Powelltown  Princess Margaret Rose Caves Port Campbell  Puckapunyal  Pyramid Hill  Queenscliff  Rainbow  Red Cliffs Red Hill  Robinvale Romsey Rosebud  Rosedale Rupanyup Rushworth Rutherglen Sale  San Remo Sea Lake Serpentine  Serviceton Seymour  Shoreham Shepparton Sherbrooke  Skipton  Smeaton  Smythesdale  Somers Sorrento St Arnaud St Leonards Stanhope  Stawell Steiglitz Stratford Strathmerton Suggan Buggan Sunbury  Swan Hill Talbot Tallangatta Tarnagulla Tarraville  Tatura  Terang Timboon Tintaldra  Toora  Tooradin  Torquay Trafalgar Traralgon Trawool Trentham Tungamah  Turriff  Violet Town Wahgunyah  Walhalla Walkerville Wangaratta Warracknabeal  Warragul Warrandyte Warrnambool  Warburton Wedderburn  Werribee Whitfield Williamstown Wilsons Promontory  Winchelsea Wodonga  Wonthaggi  Woodend Wycheproof  Yackandandah Yambuk Yarra Glen Yarra Junction Yarragon Yarram Yarrawonga Yea Young  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale   Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Vic caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale Victoria Hotels for sale Victoria

 

Tasmania

  Australian Businesses for sale Ansons  Bay Avoca  Beaconsfield Beauty Point  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Bicheno Boat Harbour  Bothwell Branxholm  Bridgewater Bridport  Brighton  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bronte Park Bruny Island Buckland  Burnie  Businesses for sale Bushy Park Cambridge Campbell Town Caravan Parks for sale  Chudleigh Cleveland  Colebrook  Coles Bay Cradle Mountain Cressy  Cygnet    Deddington Deloraine  Derby Derwent Bridge Devonport  Dover Dunalley Eaglehawk Neck Evandale Exeter Falmouth  Farms for sale  Fingal  Flinders Island  Forth Franklin  Geeveston George Town Gladstone Gould's Country Hadspen  Hamilton  Hastings Hobart  Hotels for sale  Huonville Kempton  Kettering King Island Kingston Koonya  Latrobe  Launceston Lilydale  Longford  Luina Management Rights for sale  Maria Island  Marrawah Middleton Miena Mole Creek  Motels for sale  National Park New Norfolk  Nubeena  Oatlands Orford  Ouse  Penguin  Perth  Pioneer Poatina  Pontville  Port Arthur  Port Sorell  Queenstown  Railton  Renison Bell Richmond  Ringarooma Rokeby  Rosebery  Rosevears Ross  Saltwater River  Savage River Scamander  Scottsdale Sheffield  Sidmouth  Smithton Snug  Somerset Sorell  Southport  St Helens St Marys  Stanley  Strahan Strathgordon Swansea Taranna  Tarraleah  Tomahawk Triabunna Tunbridge  Ulverstone Waratah Weldborough Westbury Wilmot  Windemere Woodbridge Wynyard  Zeehan  Young  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale   Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale   tas caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale Tasmania  Hotels for sale Tasmania

South Australia

Adelaide Adelaide Hills Aldgate  Aldinga  Andamooka Angaston Ardrossan Arkaroola Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava  Barmera  Beachport  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Beltana Berri  Bethany  Birdwood  Blanchetown Blinman Booleroo Centre Bordertown  Bridgewater  Broadwalk Business Brokers   Bruce Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis Carrieton Caravan Parks for sale  Clare Coober Pedy  Coonalpyn  Coonawarra Coorong Copley  CrafersCrystal Brook Curramulka  Echunga  Edithburgh Eudunda  Farms for sale  Gawler   Gladstone Glendambo  Goolwa  Greenock    Gumeracha Hahndorf  Hawker Hotels for sale  Innamincka  Jamestown  Kadina  Kangaroo Island Kapunda Karoonda Keith Kingston-on-Murray Kingston South East Lameroo  Laura  Leigh Creek  Lobethal  Loxton  Lyndhurst Lyndoch Maitland  Mallala  Mambray Creek  Management Rights for sale  Mannum  Marion Bay  Marla Marree McLaren Vale Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton Mintaro  Moonta Morgan Mount Barker  Mount Gambier  Motels for sale  Mount Pleasant    Murray Bridge  Mylor Naracoorte  Nuriootpa   Oodnadatta  Orroroo Padthaway  Parachilna Paringa Penola  Penwortham Peterborough  Pinnaroo Port Augusta Port Broughton Port Clinton Port Elliot  Port Germein Port MacDonnell Port Noarlunga Port Pirie Port Victoria Port Vincent Port Wakefield Quorn Renmark Reynella  Riverton  Robe  Roseworthy Roxby Downs Salisbury Seppeltsfield Sevenhill Snowtown  Spalding Springton  Stansbury  Stirling Strathalbyn Summertown Swan Reach Tailem Bend Tanunda  Tarlee Terowie Tintinara Truro  Victor Harbor  Waikerie  Wallaroo  Warooka Watervale  Wellington  Williamstown  Willunga Wilmington Wilpena Pound  Woomera Yankalilla   Yorketown Young  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale   Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River Alice Springs Arltunga Arnhem Land Barrow Creek Batchelor Bathurst Island  Borroloola Daly River Daly Waters Darwin Dunmarra Erldunda  Escape Cliffs  Glen Helen   Gove Peninsula Groote Eylandt Hermannsburg Humpty Doo Kakadu National Park Katherine Kings Canyon Larrimah  Mataranka Melville Island Newcastle Waters Pine Creek  Port Essington Raffles Bay  Renner Springs  Roper Bar Ross River  Tanami Tennant Creek  Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope Wollogorang  Motels for sale Northern Territory   Hotels for sale Northern Territory

Omeo