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across at Cowes Jetty
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Cowes
Major township on Phillip Island
Located only 140 km south of Melbourne, at the
northern end of Phillip Island, Cowes is a
popular day trip from Melbourne. It is the main
town and administrative centre of the island and
features some pleasant sheltered beaches and an
extensive range of accommodation. There are a
number of attractions within the town with many
others a short drive away. Cowes also has plenty
in the way of general facilities such as motels,
caravan parks, camping grounds,
bed-and-breakfasts, a golf club, art
exhibitions, a theatre, a cinema, souvenir and
craft shops, cafes, restaurants and pubs. Church
St has both a leisure centre and a recreation
reserve (in Dunsmore Park). There is a golf club
in Settlement Rd and both bowling and croquet
clubs in Dunsmore Rd.
It is thought that, in pre-colonial times,
Phillip Island was occupied by the Bunurong
people. That colonial era was prefigured in
January 1798 when George Bass entered
Westernport on a voyage of exploration inspired
by the survivors of the Sydney Cove (see entry
on Wollongong). He named it Western Port as it
was, at the time, the most westerly known
harbour on the coast. Bass returned in October
1798 with Matthew Flinders. The two men were
travelling down the mainland coast on board the
25-ton sloop Norfolk on a voyage intended to
confirm their suspicion that a strait existed
between the mainland and Van Diemen's Land
(i.e., Tasmania). They anchored off what is now
the settlement of Rhyll on the eastern side of
Phillip Island. Bass thought that Cape Woolamai
resembled the head of a snapper and so the
island became known as Snapper Island.
Lieutenant James Grant made the first known
passage through Bass Strait from the west in
1800. Governor King sent him back to the area
the following year. During that voyage he
constructed a simple cottage on Churchill Island
and planted corn and wheat with seeds supplied
by his friend John Churchill, after whom he
named the island. This was the first European
settlement in what is now Victoria.
Consequently, Phillip Island became known, for a
time, as Grant's Island, but its present name
was later adopted in honour of Governor Phillip.
In 1802 Nicholas Baudin, the French explorer,
sailed past, and named, French Island. In 1826
another French vessel, under Dumont d'Urville,
examined Westernport, arousing apprehensions
about French colonisation of the southern
coastline. Coupled with this was the favourable
report of the Westernport district made by
explorers Hamilton Hume and William Hovell who
believed that their 1824 overland journey from
NSW had terminated at Westernport. Unfortunately
they were mistaken, having actually completed
their trek further west at Port Phillip. On the
basis of their favourable comments Governor
Darling decided to forestall any prospective
French plans by establishing a military and
agricultural settlement at Westernport. Captain
Wright was dispatched with troops, 21 convicts
and William Hovell. Wright established a small
military settlement at the present-day site of
Rhyll and called it Fort Dumaresq. However,
fresh water proved a problem and the outpost was
moved to Corinella on the eastern shoreline of
Westernport.
Meanwhile Hovell's explorations of the
coastline revealed his mistake and an erroneous
report claiming that Westernport was unsuitable
for agriculture, owing to poor soil and lack of
fresh water, coupled with the absence of any
Frenchmen, led to the abandonment of the
Westernport settlements in 1828. The buildings
were burned to prevent their usage by escapee
convicts. As a result of this comedy of errors,
settlement of the Port Phillip district was
delayed for another seven years.
Throughout this period, because of the
colonies of seals which inhabited the coastline,
sealers made regular stopovers on the island.
Their settlements were short-lived and designed
only to process their catch.
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| Fishing from
Cowes Jetty |
The first permanent settlement of the island
occurred in1842 when the McHaffie brothers were
granted a pastoral lease covering almost the
entire island. It thus served as a sheep run
until1868 when the island was surveyed and made
available to selectors. The first recorded land
sale took place at Rhyll in 1868. More sales
proceeded in 1869 at Cowes which was known as
Mussel Point until 1865. It was renamed by
government surveyor Henry Cox after a holiday
retreat on England's Isle of Wight. Jetties were
built at Rhyll in 1868 and at Cowes in 1870 to
facilitate access from, and trade with, the
mainland. By 1870 the Isle of Wight Hotel had
also been built at Cowes.
165 settlers were to be found on the island
in 1872. It was thought that wheat-growing would
prove viable as Phillip Island was a short boat
trip from the Melbourne markets, unlike the
distant wheat belt of Western Victoria, although
the industry never really got off the ground.
Fishing had emerged (particularly for
crayfish) and chicory was grown for the first
time in 1870. It is one of the charms of the
island that you can still see, beside the road,
the occasional chicory kiln with its strange
tower and pitched roof. This plant, which is a
root crop, was dried and converted into powder
and mixed with coffee. It was claimed that
chicory had medicinal properties. By the late
1940s nearly three-quarters of Australia's
chicory crop was being grown on Phillip Island
but it eventually faded owing to high labour
costs and declining demand. Sheep, cattle and
mustard were also produced in this era.
Municipal government commenced in 1871.
However, development of the island was slow as a
number of early settlers were forced to abandon
their land owing to drought. An exodus occurred
in the 1870s with much of the property bought up
by a small number of landowners. By 1902 there
were no more than 50 settlers.
The real development of the island occurred
in the 1920s with the establishment of an access
track to the penguin colony. Tourism was greatly
stimulated with visitors accessing the island by
means of the ferry service at Cowes where a
number of grand guesthouses were built. Visitors
tended to explore the island by horseback.
The Shire of Phillip Island was declared in
1928 and the first motor race was held on the
island that same year. A bridge linked the
island to the mainland for the first time in
1940.
An interesting footnote to the town's history
suggests that the words of 'Waltzing Matilda'
were written at Cowes. The Cowes Classic is held
in January.
Things to see:
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Ferry
Visitors to Cowes can access the town by road or
via Interisland Ferries. Ring (03) 9585 5730, or
contact their web-site at
www.interislandferries.com.au
The service, which departs from Cowes jetty,
relays passengers to and from Tankerton jetty on
French Island and to and from Stony Point jetty
near Hastings.
To French Island the trip takes about twenty
minutes. It departs at 9.10 a.m. daily, with an
extra trip at 12.40 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
Saturdays and Sundays. The return trips depart
daily at 8.40 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. with additional
services at 12.10 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
Saturdays and Sundays, and at 7.15 p.m. on
Fridays.
To Stony Point the trip takes thirty minutes.
It departs at 9.10 a.m. and 5.25 p.m. daily. In
addition there are services at 12.40 p.m. on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, and
at 7.45 p.m. on Fridays. The return trips depart
at 8.30 a.m. and 5.00 p.m. daily, with extra
services at midday on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
Saturdays and Sundays, and at 7.00 p.m. on
Fridays.
Single fares cost $8.50 for adults, $6.50 for
approved concessions, $4.00 for children (aged
4-12) and $2.00 for bicycles. Return trips are
double the price.
There are also cruises to the seal colony at
Seal Rocks. These cost $25 for adults, $20 for
concessions and $15 for children, or $70 for a
family (two adults and two children under 15).
Tourist Information
The Phillip Island Tourist Information Centre,
at Newhaven, is open from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
daily with extended hours in the school
holidays. Tickets can be purchased here for the
Penguin Parade, Churchill Island, ferry cruises
and scenic air flights. A Phillip Island Nature
Pass covers entry charges to the Penguin Parade,
Churchill Island, the Sea Rocks Sea Life Centre
and the Koala Conservation Centre, tel: (03)
5956 7095 or (1300) 366 422.
Foreshore and Beaches
The Esplanade runs along the scenic foreshore of
Westernport. There is a grassy embankment under
cypress pines with picnic and barbecue
facilities, a children's playground, toilets and
a jetty which is a popular fishing spot. In
front of the jetty are the War Memorial Gardens.
Rock pools dapple the basalt rock formations.
The beaches, lying below three low rocky
headlands, are calmer than those on the island's
southern shore. They face north across to French
Island and the Mornington Peninsula. The
waterfront is a good place to launch canoes,
sailboards and other small craft and there is a
boat ramp at the end of Anderson St, although
larger craft can't be launched here at low tide.
From the intersection of Thompson Ave and The
Esplanade you can walk west past Mussel Rocks
(where there are free electric barbecues), the
yacht club and Richardson Point. When you reach
the boat ramp you can return along the beach or
walk along Anderson St then turn left into
Church St and return to the town centre.
Alternatively, you can walk east from the
intersection of Thompson Ave and The Esplanade
along what is known as The Lovers Walk. This
course leads past Erewhon Point (where there are
free electric barbecues), through tea-tree,
banksia and yellow broom, opening out under fine
tall jacarandas and pines. The latter were
allegedly planted by Baron von Mueller, the
first curator of the Melbourne Botanical
Gardens. The Lovers Walk ends at Dunsmore Rd.
From here you can return along the beach or
continue east to the inlet at Rhyll.
Anglers will find plenty of squid, snapper,
channel whiting, gummy shark, flathead, King
George whiting, flounder, Australian salmon,
garfish, trevally and pike about.
Fishing trips and boat charter services are
offered by Flytrek Australia (tel: 03 5952 5300)
and T-Cat Fishing Charters, tel: (0409) 504 974.
Thompson Ave and Galleries
Thompson Ave is the main north-south road at
Cowes. It is lined with a kilometre of golden
cypress trees planted early in the 20th century
and runs perpendicular to The Esplanade. The
Phillip Island Community Art & Craft Gallery, at
91-97 Thompson Ave (by the Church St corner), is
a community arts-and-crafts gallery open from
10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5952
5252. The Blue Poles Gallery is at 200 Thompson
St, tel: (03) 5952 3073.
The Phillip Island Heritage Centre
One block south on Thompson Ave, between Chapel
St and Church St (past the post office), is the
Phillip Island Heritage Centre which features
exhibitions and a 20-minute video of the history
and wildlife of the island. Displays relate to
geology, natural history, Aboriginal history,
maritime history, the early settlers and the
island's bridges, schools and cemetery.
On December 27 and throughout January it is
open from 2.00 p.m. to 4.30 p.m., Sunday to
Friday, and on Saturdays from 10.00 a.m. to
midday. From February to Easter, and on all
other school holidays, it is open Saturdays from
10.00 a.m. to midday and on Sundays, Tuesdays
and Thursdays from 2.00 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. At
Easter it is open Saturday from 10.00 a.m. to
midday and on Sunday and Monday from 2.00 p.m.
to 4.30 p.m. The rest of the year it opens on
Saturdays from 10.00 a.m. to midday and on
Sundays from 2.00 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. There is an
admission charge, tel: (03) 5956 9214.
Grumpy's Amusements and Island Surf Centre
Over the road, at 152 Thompson Ave (near the
Settlement Rd intersection), is Grumpy's
Amusements which features an undercover, 18-hole
mini-golf course open weekends and school
holidays from 10.00 a.m. and at other times by
appointment. There is also a waterslide which is
open from November to Easter, weather permitting
(times are displayed on a board out the front or
on the phone), tel: (03) 5952 3060 or, after
hours, tel: (03) 5952 5169. Over the road, at
147 Thompson Ave, is Island Surf Centre, tel:
(03) 5952 2578.
Phillip Island Wildlife Park
If you continue south along Thompson Ave you
will reach a four-way intersection where the
Cowes-Rhyll Rd heads east, Ventnor Rd heads
west, and Phillip Island Road heads south. 1 km
south of this intersection, along Phillip Island
Rd, is the Phillip Island Wildlife Park which is
the largest privately-owned wildlife park in
Victoria. It is an open-access park which
incorporates 6.5 ha of wetland. There are over
900 animals in all, including emus, echidnae,
crocodiles, dingoes, goannas, wedge-tailed
eagles, pelicans, koalas, snakes, kangaroos,
black swans, wallabies, dingoes, rosellas,
lorikeets, kookaburras, native owls, Tasmanian
devils, crocodiles, wombats and a nocturnal
animals centre. There are picnic areas,
souvenirs, toilets, barbecues and a kiosk. It
opens daily at 9.00 a.m. but it is advisable to
ring and check closing times as these vary
throughout the year. The admission fee includes
a bag of animal food. It is open daily from 9.00
a.m. to 5.15 p.m. daily, tel: (03) 5952 2038.
Woolshed Craft Shop and Farm
If you turn off Thompson Ave into Ventnor Rd and
follow it westwards for about 3 km you will come
to Berrys Beach Rd which heads off to the left.
Along here is the Woolshed Craft Shop and Farm
which sells a range of Australian products
including handspun jumpers, hats and souvenirs.
There is a restaurant, a playground and disabled
facilities. It is open daily from midday to
dusk, tel: (03) 5956 8414.
Lavinia's Dolls of the World
Lavinia's Dolls of the World, displaying over
500 international and character dolls, is open
by appointment, tel: (03) 5952 2258. It is
located in the Anchor Belle Caravan Park at 272
Church St, which runs parallel to The Esplanade,
two blocks south.
Indy Go Karts and Funshed
Indy Go Karts and Funshed is located at 91
Settlement Rd which runs parallel to The
Esplanade, three blocks south. It is on the
eastern side of Thompson Ave. There are kids'
and adult karts, double-seaters, dodgems, a
giant 8-lane slot-car track, a snack bar,
toddler and tiny tot areas, trampolines, a
bouncing castle, games and activities. Outside
of school holidays, the Go-Karts are operational
from midday to 5.00 p.m. on weekdays and from
10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. on weekends. The Funshed
is open from midday to 5.00 p.m. on weekdays and
from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. from Friday to
Sunday. During the school holidays, the Go-Karts
are open from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. and the
Funshed from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (03)
5952 3977.
Island Influence
Adjacent, at 87-89 Settlement Rd, is Island
Influence, an arts-and-crafts shop which is open
Thursday to Sunday from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
and, on Wednesdays, from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.,
tel: (03) 5952 3815.
Cowes Market
A market is held every Sunday from 10.00 a.m. to
2.00 p.m. in Settlement Rd. Handmade
art-and-craft items are on display.
Other Tourist Attractions
Phillip Island has numerous sites of interest
which are to be found further afield. They are
listed below, along with instructions on how to
get to them from Cowes, but, for detailed
information on each, see the entry on Phillip
Island.
To access these other attractions it is
necessary to first head south along Thompson Ave
to the four-way intersection where the
Cowes-Rhyll Rd heads east, Ventnor Rd heads
west, and Phillip Island Road heads south. The
attractions further afield are grouped below
according to which of these three main roads the
visitor pursues.
(A) Tourist Attractions on the Cowes-Rhyll
Road
The Cowes-Rhyll Road leads east past
Conservation Hill, where there is an observation
tower. From this point there is a
walking/cycling track to Rhyll inlet. For
further information on these attractions see the
entry on Phillip Island.
(B) Tourist Attractions Along Ventnor Rd
and Back Beach Rd
5 km west of the four-way intersection, along
Ventnor Rd, is a turnoff on the right into
Ventnor Beach Rd. 500 m further along Ventnor Rd
is another turnoff, on the right, to Grossard
Point where you will find the historic grave of
W.P. Grossard.
If you continue along Ventnor Road for
another 2.5 km you will come to the intersection
with Back Beach Rd which heads off to the left.
If you ignore this turnoff, for the moment, and
continue along Ventnor Rd, it leads out along
the Summerland peninsula, past Swan Lake
Reserve, the Penguin Parade site at Summerland
Beach (on the southern side of the peninsula)
and the beaches on the northern side of the
peninsula. Ventnor Road terminates at Point
Grant where you will find the Nobbies, Seal
Rocks, the Blowhole and the Sea Rocks Sea Life
Centre.
If, instead, you turn left off Ventnor Rd
into the aforementioned Back Beach Rd it leads
past the turnoffs, on the right, into Kitty
Miller Rd (which leads to Kitty Miller Bay and
the wreck of the SS Speke), Berrys Beach Rd
(which leads to the Phillip Island Winery, the
Woolshed Restaurant and Berrys Beach), Pyramid
Rock Rd (which leads to Pyramid Rock on the
coast), the entrance road to the Phillip Island
Grand Prix Circuit Visitor Centre, and Smiths
Beach Road (which leads to Smiths Beach). It is
possible to turn directly off Ventnor Rd into
Berrys Beach Road and Pyramid Rock Rd.
For further information on these attractions
see the entry on Phillip Island.
(C) Tourist Attractions Accessed Via
Phillip Island Rd
Phillip Island Tourist Rd heads south from the
four-way intersection then veers south-east to
Newhaven and the bridge across to San Remo.
4 km south of the 4-way intersection, to the
left, is Harbison Rd which leads past the Oswin
Roberts Reserve and the walking/cycling tracks
to Conservation Hill and the Rhyll inlet.
If you stay on Phillip Island Rd, instead of
turning into Harbison Rd, you will very soon
pass the Koala Conservation Centre on the left
and A Maze 'n' Things Holiday Park on the right.
A little over a kilometre beyond A Maze 'n'
Things is the intersection with the eastern end
of Back Beach Rd. If you turn into Back Beach Rd
it leads past turnoffs on the left to Smiths
Beach, the Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit
Visitors Centre, Pyramid Rock, the Phillip
Island Winery, the Woolshed Restaurant, Berrys
Beach and Kitty Miller Bay, before intersecting
with Ventnor Rd
If the visitor ignores the turnoff into Back
Beach Rd and continues south-east along Phillip
Island Rd it leads past turnoffs on the right to
Surf Beach and Surfies Point, Forrest Caves,
Cape Woolamai and The Colonnades.
Just west of Newhaven is the turnoff on the
left to Churchill Island. For further
information on these attractions see the entry
on Phillip Island. Those attractions found
within the township of Newhaven itself can be
found by going to that site.
Tours
Bay Connections operate regular scenic cruises,
with commentary, from Cowes. One journeys along
the Phillip Island coastline to Seal Rocks;
another crosses over to French Island where it
conjoins with a bus tour of the island, and a
third cruise investigates Westernport. From
November to May there are also special cruises
to the Balnarring market (see entry on Somers),
occasional cruises around Wilsons Promontory
and, from June to August, a whale and
seal-watching cruise. There is also a transfer
package from the Mornington Peninsula to the
motorcycle racing track during the Grand Prix.
They have an office at the rotunda on the Cowes
Foreshore, tel: (03) 5678 5642 or fax: (03) 5678
5859. Their web-site is at
www.bayconnections.com.au
Surefoot Explorations, who specialise in
birdwatching, offer a small-scale guided nature
tours around the island, tel: (03) 5952 1533 or
check out their web-site at www.surefoot.com.au.
