|
| The Brig
'Amity' an accurate replica of the ship
which brought the first convicts and
settlers to Albany |
Albany (including Cheynes Beach)
Attractive historic township on the southern
coast surrounded by a large number of
significant attractions.
What an extraordinary town! A main street which
seems to go straight into the Princess Royal
Harbour. Magnificent views across the harbour
from just about every vantage point. Gracious
churches, public buildings and historic
harbourside stores and wharves. Superb stretches
of dramatic coastline weathered by the timeless
forces of the Southern Ocean. There is no
debate: Albany is one of the truly remarkable
places in Western Australia. A beautiful town in
a beautiful setting.
As Henry Lawson, who lived in the town for
six months in 1890, put it: 'Albany will never
change much - it is a pretty town, but vague. It
seems to exist only in a far-away-on-the-horizon
sort of way; I like it all the better for that.'
Located 406 km south of Perth, Albany is the
major centre on the Western Australian south
coast and the oldest European settlement in the
state. It is hard to imagine a more ideal
harbour. The seas of the Southern Ocean can lash
this coast with wild storms and the notorious
southern wind, 'the Albany Doctor', can blow the
ocean into a fury. Yet the sailor can enter King
George Sound and then, through a narrow channel
between Point King and Point Possession, enter
the quiet waters of Princess Royal Harbour.
|
| Cable Beach,
Torndirrup National Park near The
Natural Bridge |
Unlike nearly all of Western Australia,
Albany is cool and wet. It receives an average
of 942 mm of rainfall per annum and its average
summer temperature is only 22.4°C.
Albany was established as a penal colony. The
coastline had been sighted by Europeans as early
as 1627 when Pieter Nuyts had sailed across the
Great Australian Bight in the ship Gulden
Zeepaardt. Nuyts' report of the land was such
that the Dutch showed no interest in settlement.
It was on the basis of the maps drawn by
Nuyts that Jonathan Swift, when writing
Gulliver's Travels, located the land of the
Houyhnhnms almost exactly at the present site of
Albany. With some kind of extraordinary vision
Swift had Gulliver land on the coastline, eat
oysters and be chased by Aborigines. He could
not have known that George Vancouver, 65 years
later, would enter one of the bays of King
George Sound and name it Oyster Harbour because
of the abundance of oysters he found in the
area.
The second European to visit the area was
George Vancouver who entered King George Sound
in 1791. Vancouver spent two weeks in the area
during which time he named Bald Head, Breaksea
Island, Michaelmas Island, Oyster Harbour, Seal
Island, took possession of the area at Point
Possession and declared 'This port, the first
which we had discovered, I honoured with the
name of King George the Third's Sound, and this
day being the anniversary of Her Royal Highness
Princess Charlotte Augusta Matilda's birth, the
harbour behind point Possession I called
Princess Royal Harbour.'
Vancouver's report on the area was not good.
He suggested that the soil was poor and the
local Aborigines (he had not seen any of them)
were extremely primitive.
The next explorer to visit the area was
Matthew Flinders who arrived at King George
Sound in July 1801 and he was followed by
Nicholas Baudin who stopped in the sound on 11
February 1803 and stayed until 1 March noting
the poor soils of the region but fascinated by
the seemingly endless wildflowers. By the 1820s
the area was being visited with some regularity
by explorers and the whalers and sealers who
worked in the Southern Ocean.
The turning point for Albany came on
Christmas Day 1826 when the brig Amity entered
King George Sound. The brig brought Major Edmund
Lockyer and some troops and convicts. It had
been decided some years earlier, partly to
protect Australia against possible French
settlement and partly because the British
Government wanted to close the penal colony at
Port Macquarie and open the surrounding area to
free settlers, to establish Western Australia's
first penal colony. Lockyer chose the site of
present day Albany (a small stream ran into
Princess Royal Harbour near where the replica of
the Amity now stands) and it was officially
proclaimed on 21 January 1827. At the time it
was named Fredericks Town after Frederick
Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, the second
son of King George III.
Lockyer reported on the town site in April
1827. He made the observation that it was
extremely difficult to sail from Sydney to
Albany. He did however point out that, being the
only deep water harbour on the south western
coast it was very important strategically.
Events overtook these limitations when, in 1829,
a colony was established on the Swan River and
its location, being superior to that of Albany,
ensured its continuing existence and growing
prosperity.
Albany' never did become a penal colony . It
remained nothing more than a military outpost of
New South Wales until on 7 March 1831 it was
proclaimed as part of the Swan River Colony (the
previous year a small group of explorers had
travelled overland from Perth to Albany) and
later that year the town was surveyed and blocks
of land were sold to free settlers. Any
prisoners who had not completed their sentences
were returned to New South Wales. The following
year the name was changed to Albany. By 1836
maps of the town showed York Street running down
to the harbour and Stirling Terrace sweeping
along the harbour foreshore.
Perhaps the most fascinating of all Albany's
early visitors was Edward John Eyre who, with
his Aboriginal companion Wylie, arrived in the
town on 7 July 1841 and stayed for a week at
Skerrats Family Hotel on the corner of Stirling
Terrace and York Street. There can be few more
potent historical experiences than to stand on
the corner and imagine Eyre, having just walked
from South Australia across the Nullarbor Plain,
standing on the corner of the tiny town 150
years ago.
Eyre was hugely impressed by the warmth of
greeting which the friends and relatives of
Wylie gave the Aboriginal guide upon his arrival
in Albany.
Things to see:
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The Heritage Trails
It is reasonable to suggest that a visitor
wanting to see all the attractions of Albany
should really spend a minimum of two days (and
possibly a week) in the town. There are numerous
guides to the sights but the best is the First
Settlement Heritage Trail: Settlement and
Development of the Albany District. A
Bicentennial Heritage Trail brochure which is 55
pages long and divides the town and environs in
five separate Heritage Trails.
1. Albany Historic Town Trail
The major walks (there are two of them) are the
Albany Historic Town Trails which recognise 39
places of significant historical interest within
a 2 km radius of central business district.
The first walk starts at the Old Gaol which
was built in the 1850s as a convict hiring
depot. Although Albany was not a penal colony at
this time it continued to accept convicts as
farm labourers and hired hands until 1868. In
1872 the hiring depot became the local gaol with
separate sections for white men, white women and
Aborigines. Today it is the town's main museum
with extensive historic presentations of the
local area including maps, photographs,
interesting Aboriginal artifacts, and relics
from the penal colony. It is open from 10.30 am
- 4.30 pm daily.
Nearby is the charming Residency Museum which
was originally built as a store in the 1850s but
converted into the Government Residency from
1873-1953. It was near this point that Major
Lockyer landed and decided to site Albany. The
Museum is open from 10.00 am - 5.00 pm from
Monday to Saturday and 2.00 pm - 5.00 pm on
Sundays. Among the museum's extensive displays
are the jaws of a white pointer shark and the
huge rotating lens from the old Eclipse
Lighthouse.
Across the beautiful green lawns which now
surround the Residency is the remarkable replica
of the Amity which is open for inspection from
9.00 am - 5.00 pm daily.
The walk then moves up the hill past some
interesting old cottages to the Victoria Arts
Centre (formerly the Old Albany Hospital built
in 1885) and beyond to inspect some delightful
late nineteenth century houses (all privately
owned and not open to the public) in Grey Street
West. The residence at 198 Grey Street West is
reputed to be on the site where Wylie was buried
and the house at 184 Grey Street West was built
in the mid-1880s by Albany's first Mayor.
At 5 Hotchin Street is Melville House which
was built around 1871 by J. F. T. Hassell (see
Kendenup for more details). Members of the
Hassell family continued to live in the house
until it was sold in the 1950s.
|
| St John the
Evangelist Church (1848) in York Street,
Albany |
The walk then moves across to York Street
with its late Victorian, Classical Revival Town
Hall (1886), Scots Presbyterian Church (1891)
and delightful church complex of Church of St
John the Evangelist (1848), which includes the
Hall (1889), and the Rectory (1849). The church,
which can claim to be the first consecrated
church in Western Australia, is a fine example
of the severe, square Anglo Saxon style which is
commonplace in rural England.
In Duke Street the Wesley Church (1863)
stands next to the elaborate and ornate manse
which was given to the church by a local
merchant in 1903. Further down Duke Street is
Patrick Taylor's Cottage one of the few
buildings in Albany which dates from the town's
penal colony days. A wattle and daub cottage it
was probably built as early as 1832. Certainly
it was sold to Patrick Taylor for £200 in 1834
and he lived in it until his death in 1877. It
is now used as a folk museum by the Albany
Historical Society and is open from 2.00 pm -
4.30 pm daily.
2. Town Walk Heritage Trail
The second town walk starts in Stirling Terrace,
that remarkable, almost other-worldly street
which runs from the Museums along to Old Post
Office. The graciousness and old world charm of
this area of town can be directly attributed to
the goldrushes of the 1890s which saw thousands
of prospectors pouring into Western Australia
through Albany and making their way north and
west to the rich fields of the Kalgoorlie
region. There was a time when miners sailed to
Albany, caught the coach to York and then the
train to the goldfields. Albany was used as an
entry point because Fremantle lacked good deep
water port facilities. The result of the
goldrushes was that Albany prospered and most of
the elegant buildings in Stirling Terrace were
constructed.
|
| The Penny
Post Restaurant and the Old Post Office
in Stirling Terrace |
The highlight of Stirling Terrace is
undoubtedly the Penny Post Restaurant and the
Old Post Office. Construction of this historic
post office building commenced in 1869 and it
was opened in 1870. It is recognised as the
oldest Post Office in Western Australia. At the
time of construction it housed a number of
colonial authorities including the District
Customs, the Mail Room, the Customs Office and
the Bond Store. It was substantially altered in
1895 with the turrets and towers being added.
The best view of the building can be had from
the harbour. It is huge and gracious. Inside it
has an impressive geometric bluestone stairway.
Apart from the Post Office Building, with its
distinctive 25 m shingled clock tower, Stirling
Terrace also has the old Albany Courthouse
(1895-96) with stone arches and an unusual
asymmetrical flared arch, the London Hotel
(1909), Albany House (the old Union Bank
building it was completed in 1878), the Empire
Buildings at 146-152 Stirling Terrace which date
from 1912, the Western Australian Bank (1885),
Dylan's Restaurant (1880s), the Royal George
Hotel (1885) and the Argyle Buildings (1890s).
3. The Mount Clarence Trails
The Mount Clarence Trail, the third of the
Heritage trails, is a walk from the War Memorial
at the end of Apex Drive around the edges of
Mount Clarence. The walk offers superb views of
the harbour and the town and is an ideal way of
familiarising yourself with the geography of
Albany and its surrounds.
The Desert Mounted Corps War Memorial has an
extraordinary history. It was originally located
at Port Said and was unveiled by W. M.'Billy'
Hughes in 1932. Desecrated during the Suez
crisis of 1956 it was shipped back to Australia
in 1959. It could not be rebuilt so a sculptor
was commissioned to remodel the statue which
depicted an Australian soldier going to the aid
of a New Zealander. Two models were made. One is
in Canberra and the other was unveiled by R. G.
Menzies in 1964. The 9 metre high statue depicts
two mounted horsemen confronted by a bursting
shell. The views from the War Memorial are quite
magnificent. It is worth recalling that during
World War I Albany was a major departure point
for many of the soldiers of the AIF who fought
and died in the Middle East. For many of those
soldiers Albany was their last sight of the
Australian coastline.
4. Mount Adelaide Heritage Trails
The fourth Heritage Trail is a two hour walk
around Mount Adelaide and combines a nature
trail with excellent views over the harbour.
5. Princess Royal Fortress Trail
The fifth Heritage Trail is known as the
Princess Royal Fortress Trail and is an
opportunity to inspect the Princess Royal
Fortress which was completed in 1893 and
designed to protect Albany (which is the only
major port between Perth and Port Lincoln)
against the unlikely occurrence of invasion. The
fort was continuously manned from 1893-1945. A
small staff continued until it was closed down
in 1956. Today visitors can inspect the various
buildings which make up the fortress. There is
the Guard House, the Canteen, the Officer
Commanding's Residence, the stables, barracks
and married quarters, and the various guns and
artillery storage points. The excellent
restoration of the old buildings, which had been
allowed to fall into disrepair, has returned
this unique piece of Australian history to its
original condition.
6. Quaranup-Point Possession Trail
The last of the walks is the Quaranup / Point
Possession Trail, a 1.6 km walk from Albany's
old Quarantine Station to Point Possession where
George Vancouver claimed the whole of Western
Australia for Great Britain. It is located on
the far side of Princess Royal Harbour on the
way out to Torndirrup National Park with its
dramatic coastal formations.
The inability to control infectious diseases
during the nineteenth century meant that it was
not uncommon for a ship, particularly one which
had passed through the Orient, to arrive in
Australia carrying passengers who had been
struck down by such killer diseases as yellow
fever, smallpox, or scarlet fever.
In 1874 work on the Quarantine Station began
and by 1880 the original hospital and
caretaker's quarters had been expanded to
include a doctor's quarters, servant's quarters,
isolation wards, a morgue, laundry, wash house,
store, dining room and (a wonderful remnant of
the nineteenth century) a special area for the
first class passengers. The heritage trail
starts at the Car Park and passes the morgue,
nurse's quarters and graves to continue onto the
isthmus and pass across to the outcrop where
George Vancouver took possession of the whole
region.
|
| The Natural
Bridge near the Gap outside Albany
|
Torndirrup National Park
No visit to Albany could ever be complete
without some hours spent in the Torndirrup
National Park gazing in awe at the Natural
Bridge, The Gap, the Blowholes, the Gorge, and
Newles Inlet and visiting Whale World.
CALM's outstanding publication, Rugged
Mountains, Jewelled Sea: The South Coast
Heritage Trail Network by Libby Sandiford notes
of the area: 'Flanking the south-western side of
King George Sound, Torndirrup National Park
(named after one of the local Aboriginal tribal
divisions) provides not only breathtaking
coastal scenery ranging from rugged granite
cliffs to sandy beaches, but excellent views of
both the southern ocean and hinterland. From the
prominent hills it is easy to see why the
harbour was favoured by sailing ships, and to
contemplate the changes made since European
settlement. In winter there is the added
excitement of sighting albatrosses and whales.
'Torndirrup National Park is renowned for its
rugged coastal features such as the Gap and
Natural Bridge. For the more adventurous a
greater appreciation of this coastal region can
be gained by walking out towards Bald Head. This
medium grade 10 km return walk take you along
the crest of Flinders Peninsula to Bald Head,
the landmark that guided explorers into King
George Sound, and past the 'coral beds' that so
intrigued the early explorers. Captain Vancouver
noted in 1791: 'coral was entirely in its
original state, particularly in one level
spot...white sand occupied the space, through
which the branches of coral protruded.' This
'coral', however, has no marine origins. The
calcetrations have solidified around what were
once tree and shrub roots. Subsequent erosion
has exposed their many shapes.'
CALM have also produced a handy brochure
Albany-Denmark Coast National Parks which has a
map of the major roads through the area and all
the sites clearly identified. There is no doubt
that the whole park is a wonderland. The Gap is
sheer and dramatic, the Natural Bridge is
fascinating, the views along the coast from the
Natural Bridge are extraordinarily pretty and
the view across Cable Beach (to the east of the
Gap) is dramatic. The walk to the Blowholes can
be disappointing if the sea is not running
however the views from the coast are well worth
the walk.
Jimmy Newell's Harbour
Nearby is Jimmy Newell's Harbour, a quiet little
inlet which was named after a local fisherman
who, caught by a sudden storm, was driven into
the harbour where he found protection and
safety.
Whaleworld
Near Torndirrup is the interesting Whaleworld an
outstanding museum of whaling history. Located
where one of Australia's last whaling stations,
the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company, operated it
includes tearooms and provides a comprehensive
history of whaling in the southern ocean. There
is an excellent video on the history of whaling
as well as interesting displays including
harpoon guns and a restored whale chaser, the
Cheynes IV.
The Old Farm
Hidden away in Albany's suburbia is The Old Farm
at Strawberry Hill. It is thought that the
cottage may be the oldest building in Western
Australia. Listed as part of the National Estate
it is regarded as one of the most important
buildings in the State. The National Estate's
extensive entry on 'The Old Farm' records it as
'a fine early example of a country gentleman's
residence and estate, comprising a main
residence and associated ancillary
buildings...The Old Farm dates from 1827, when
the site was used as a vegetable garden and to
cultivate maize to supply the small military
detachment established at King George Sound...In
1831, Dr Alexander Collie, the first Government
Resident, built a 'comparatively comfortable
little dwelling house' close to the government
gardens. This estate and the adjoining 43
hectares were purchased from the government in
1833 by Sir Richard Spencer...Wattle and daub
additions were made to the original dwelling
house c. 1834, and sheds and stables were also
erected in this period. The larger two-storey
residence, built by William Diprose for Spencer
in 1836, was joined to the earlier wattle and
daub structure. At that time a stone barn was
also built by Diprose nearby. Spencer's estate
was the centre of social activity for the small
community until Lady Spencer left for England a
few years after her husband's death in 1839.
'In 1870 the original wattle and daub home
was destroyed by fire and the house and farm
gradually began to deteriorate.
'In 1889 Francis Bird, a successful
architect, purchased 'Strawberry Hill' and
extensive renovations were carried out. It was
renamed 'The Old Farm' in 1890 in memory of the
pioneers who founded it, and again became an
important venue for social functions of the
time.
'In 1956 the Western Australian Government
purchased the farm and it was gazetted as an
historical monument...There is some dispute as
to whether 'The Old Farm' is the oldest house in
Western Australia. It is certainly the finest
surviving, however, and played a significant
role in the settlement of the region. It stands
today amid gardens which include plants and
trees grown from the seeds brought out from
England by Sir Richard Spencer.'
The Heritage Trails
There are a number of excellent books on Albany
including Donald Garden's Albany: A Panorama of
the Sound from 1827 and Les Johnson's Love Thy
Land. The Western Australia RAC has a very
useful Albany Region map available for people
wishing to explore the surrounding area.
