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Wide main street of Carnarvon
 

 

Carnarvon (including Bernier Is., Quobba and Cape Cuvier)
Major township on the Gascoyne coast
Located 904 km north of Perth on the North West Coastal Highway, Carnarvon is a large and thriving town surrounded by banana plantations and set close to some of Western Australia's most beautiful and unusual coastline. It lies 3.3 m above sea level and experiences an annual average rainfall of only 229 mm. The Carnarvon Shire extends from Hamelin Pool in Shark Bay to Exmouth Station in the Pilbara.

Like so much of the Western Australian coastline the area around Carnarvon was known to Dutch sailors in the early seventeenth century. It was the Dutch sailor Henderik Brouwer who, in 1610, discovered that the best route from the Cape of Good Hope to Batavia was via the Roaring Forties. The idea was head east for a few thousand kilometres then turn left. Brouwer achieved the crossing of the Indian Ocean and turned left before reaching Western Australia. Six years later Dirk Hartog sailed too far and arrived at Cape Inscription on 26 October 1616. It was here that he placed his famous pewter plate.

After 1616 the area of the coast which includes modern day Carnarvon became known as Eendrachsland after Hartog's boat Eendracht.

The usual litany of explorers and adventurers passed through the area - Tasman, de Vlamingh, Dampier, Pelsaert, Phillip Parker King, and the Frenchmen Freycinet, Hamelin and Baudin.

No one showed any huge interest in the Eendrachsland because of the unreliability of the rainfall, the apparent non-existence of permanent water supplies, and the harsh desert vegetation which characterised the area.

The first serious exploration of the area was that undertaken by Lieutenant George Grey in 1839. By any conventional measure the journey was a disaster. In February 1839 Grey and ten men were landed on Bernier Island with three whale boats. The plan was to explore the coast north of Bernier Island. They quickly established that there was no water on the island and decided to head for the mainland. During the crossing one boat was smashed on rocks and most of the provisions for the expedition were destroyed. The trip to North West Cape was abandoned and the party attempted to return to Perth. At Gantheaume Bay the other boats were wrecked and the men (one of whom died) were forced to walk the 500 km back to Perth. Perhaps the only contribution Grey made to the area was when he named the Gascoyne River after a naval friend, Captain Gascoyne.

The area was regarded as so inhospitable that although F. T. Gregory explored it in 1858 (an epic journey which covered 2000 miles in 107 days) it wasn't until the late 1870s that settlers began to arrive. In 1876 the region's founding fathers, Aubrey Brown, John Monger and C.S. Brockman, overlanded 4000 sheep from York and established themselves in the district. Brown settled on Boolathana station and Brockman established Brickhouse station.

By 1934 (the peak period) the Gascoyne was supporting 1.4 million head of sheep. Numbers have reduced since then as an awareness of the fragile ecology of the area has forced pastoralists to appreciate the risks of overgrazing. The Western Australian Department of Agriculture describes the area as 'mulga scrubland' and that does not suggest endless paddocks of rich pasture.

The town of Carnarvon, named after Lord Carnarvon, the British Secretary of State (1866-74), was gazetted in 1883 and for most of its early life it served as a port and supply depot for the surrounding pastoral industry.

Carnarvon became the centre of an efficient wool producing area. Life on the stations was hard and brutal and the treatment of the local Aborigines was appalling. Those Aborigines who were not massacred were forced into virtual slavery by the local property owners. Camel teams, driven by Afghan camel drivers, brought the wool from the stations to the port.

The camel teams account for the extraordinary width of Robinson Street which may well (with the possible exception of the main street in Coolgardie which was formed for the same reason) be the widest street in Australia. You almost need a taxi to get from one side to the other.

The novelist Nene Gare explained the origins of the street in her novel Green Gold when she wrote: 'The wide main streets were made to take a double team of camels pulling twelve-foot-high drays shod with big iron wheels. There had to be room for the Afghan drivers to take a round turn, with the result that modern traffic finds itself with parking space in the middle of the road as well as at both sides.'

It was a man named Jack Buzolic who changed the economic nature of the town. In 1928 he wrote of the town: 'At present Carnarvon is a small place with four hotels, six stores (four held by white people and two by Chinamen), three drapery shops and one boarding house, and consists of about six hundred people...Now the whole of Carnarvon and surrounds make their living by the sheep stations in the district...My opinion is that, of the tropical fruits bananas would grow to perfection if cultivated properly.' He acted upon his opinion, planted banana suckers in 1928 and by 1930 had picked his first saleable crop. Although there had been interest in tropical agriculture since 1922 no one had really bothered until Buzolic decided to develop bananas thus broadening the economic base of the town.

People who drive over the Gascoyne River in the dry season when it is nothing more than a dry river bed will be surprised to know that it is central to the irrigation of the whole region. It does, on average, flow for 120 days each year. For the rest of the time the river literally flows upside down. Carnarvon is located at the only point on the Australian coastline where the desert reaches out into the sea. This means that the mouth of the Gascoyne River is a 300 km tongue of sand which acts as a huge water storage system. The water table (known more accurately as the river's 'aquifers') lies below the sands and the local banana plantation owners tap into it and pump the water to the surface. Currently 80 per cent of the bananas from Carnarvon are consumed in Western Australia. Crops are usually good although the area has experienced 14 cyclones, 6 floods and 7 droughts in the last 50 years.

Tours of Munro's Banana Plantation take place twice daily and bookings can be made by contacting 08 99 41 8104.

The town also is the centre of an area which grows avocados, coconuts, dates, jojoba, macadamia nuts, mangoes, pawpaws, pecans, tomatoes, pineapples, melons and various varieties of beans.

 

The Carnarvon Space Receiver Station
 

It is widely recognised that the biggest event in recent Carnarvon history was the establishment of the NASA tracking station in 1964. Its importance was based on the fact that it was the base which gave the command for the Trans Lunar Insertion (TLI) which actually sent the Apollo missions in to land on the moon.

Perhaps its greatest moment came on 20 July 1969 when Neil Armstrong stepped out of Apollo 11. His famous words 'One small step for man. One giant leap for mankind' were relayed to the world via the tracking station at Carnarvon. It was finally closed down in 1974 because it became outmoded.

 

 

Things to see:   [Top of page]

Carnarvon Space Tracking Station
The Carnarvon Space Tracking Station has a museum in the pedestal of the big dish (contact the Tourist Bureau to have it opened) with an interesting collection of bits and pieces from the moon landing period including the hand prints of the astronauts who visited Carnarvon. The museum is worth visiting for anyone interested in Australia's connections with the US space program or for people who want to be amazed at the speed at which modern technology has progressed. How can things which were considered the height of modern technology in 1969 look so old and antiquated only a couple of decades later?

 

One Mile Jetty and Lighthouse Cottage Museum
There are a number of interesting places in Carnarvon. Of the most interesting is 'One Mile Jetty', originally constructed in 1904. The jetty stretches 1493 metres into the bay on the western side of Babbage Island. For those lazy people a jetty train operates every day in the tourist season and is a convenient way of not walking the mile to the end of the jetty. At the landward end of the jetty is the excellent and interesting Lighthouse Cottage Museum which is open from 2.00 pm - 4.00 pm daily.

Maps of Carnarvon and a useful booklet Visitor's Guide to Carnarvon are available from the Tourist Bureau.

 

Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia (see Shark Bay for more details). Carnarvon is often seen as the major town for visits to Monkey Mia and certainly a number of one day and two day trips leave from the town. Contact the Tourist Bureau in Robinson Street - (08) 9941 1146 - for details. A hovercraft makes the journey from Carnarvon to Monkey Mia four times weekly.

 

 

The wreck of the Korean Star, near Carnarvon
 

Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and the Korean Star
The Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and the Wreck of the Korean Star. North of Carnarvon are some of the most interesting sights on the whole of the Western Australian coast. 24 km north of the town is a turnoff to 'The Blowholes'. This trip across near-desert landscape for 49 km offers superb views of the coast as well as the blowholes, a look at an unusual salt loading facility and the wreck of the Korean Star. The coastline is characterised by spectacularly beautiful craggy cliffs, beautiful white sandy beaches and a dramatic variety of seascapes. The road passes near to the famous Lake Macleod, a huge 225 000 hectare coastal salt lake which is 110 km long and 40 km wide. The lake is mined by Dampier Salt Pty Ltd who ship the salt out of the area from the jetty at Cape Cuvier.

The Blowholes (the plural is relevant - there must be 20 or 30 of them) are just south of the point where the road reaches the coast. The road crosses some huge sand dunes which have been whipped up by the westerlies before dropping to the coast.

 

KING WAVES KILL - reminder to the foolhardy on the coast north of Carnarvon
 

The traveller is greeted with a huge sign declaring: 'KING WAVES KILL'. It is not something to be treated with disdain. It is a sober reminder to the careless and foolhardy that over 30 people have died as a result of freak waves on the coast.

The Blowholes were first discovered by Europeans as recently as 1911 and since then they have become an increasingly popular tourist attraction.

Further north is Quobba Station standing alone and isolated between the sand dunes and the coast and 30 km north of the Blowholes is Cape Cuvier where the salt from the Dampier Salt works is loaded onto ships bound for Japan. The Carnarvon Tourist Bureau arranges tours of the Salt works every Thursday. The novel loading method involves simply bulldozing salt onto a conveyor belt which carries it to the bulk carriers which moor at the end of the jetty.

On 21 May 1988 Cyclone Herbie hit the area and the Korean Star which was waiting to be loaded was blown onto the rocks where it subsequently broke into two. The wreck lies at the bottom of the 60 metre cliffs at Cape Cuvier and can be reached by 4WD down a road which cuts between the cliffs.

 

Bernier and Dorre Islands
Off the coast from Carnarvon (and certainly not part of the regular tourist schedule for the region) are the fascinating Bernier and Dorre Islands. They are now both uninhabited apart from the very rare banded-hare wallaby, Lesueur's rat kangaroo, little barred-bandicoot and Shark Bay mouse all of which are extinct or nearly extinct on the mainland. The islands are really nothing more than narrow strips of coastal limestone surrounded by cliffs which rise, at their highest point, to about 45 metres.

Both Bernier and Dorre Island would be unimportant if they hadn't played a sad role in the decimation of the Aborigines of the Gascoyne and Pilbara. Some time before 1910 the islands became used as a 'hospital' for mainland Aborigines who had contracted venereal disease. The 'patients' were shipped across to the islands to isolate them and, in turn, they were separated so the men were located on Bernier Island and the women on Dorre. In her famous book The Passing of the Aborigines, Daisy Bates recalls: 'Dorre and Bernier Islands: there is not, in all my sad sojourn among the last sad people of the primitive Australian race, a memory one half so tragic or so harrowing, or a name that conjures up such a deplorable picture of misery and horror unalleviated, as these two grim and barren islands of the West Australian coast that for a period, mercifully brief, were the tombs of the living dead. When I landed on Bernier Island in November 1910 there were only fifteen men left alive, but I counted thirty eight graves. There were seventy-seven women on Dorre Island, many of them bed-ridden. I dared not count the graves there.

 

Reading about Carnarvon
Anyone needing more information on the town should read Merrill Findlay's outstanding book Carnarvon: Reflections of a Country Town. Findlay was Artist-in-Residence in Carnarvon in 1983 and, as a professional photojournalist, she captured the spirit of the town in a way that few local histories do.

 

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NSW towns

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Victoria

Aireys Inlet   Alberton  Alexandra  Anakie Anglesea  Antwerp  Apollo Bay  Apsley Ararat Avenel  Avoca  Australian Businesses for sale  Bacchus Marsh  Bairnsdale   Ballan  Ballarat  Balmoral  Bannockburn  Barmah  Barwon Heads  Bass   Baxter   Beaufort   Beech Forest  Beechworth  Belgrave Bells Beach   Benalla   Bendigo Berwick  Beulah   Beveridge  Birchip  Blackwood  Bogong  Boort   Box Hill Bright  Broadford   Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bruthen  Buchan Buckland  Buninyong   Camperdown  Cann River  Cape Otway  Carisbrook  Casterton  Castlemaine  Charlton   Chewton  Chiltern  Churchill   Clunes  Cobden   Cobram  Cohuna  Colac   Coleraine  Contact Broadwalk   Corinella   Corryong   Cowes  Craigieburn   Cranbourne   Cressy   Creswick  Croydon Dandenong  Dargo   Daylesford  Derrinallum  Dimboola  Donald   Donnybrook Spa  Dromana  Drouin  Drysdale  Dunkeld   Dunolly  Eaglehawk  Echuca   Edenhope  Eildon  Eldorado  Emerald  Euroa  Falls Creek  Ferntree Gully  Flinders  Foster  Frankston  French Island  Geelong  Genoa  Gisborne   Glenrowan  Goroke  Grantville  Graytown   Great Western  Guildford  Halls Gap  Hamilton  Harcourt  Harrietville   Harrow  Hastings   Healesville  Heathcote  Heidelberg  Hepburn Springs  Heyfield   Heywood  Hopetoun  Horsham   Inglewood  Inverleigh  Inverloch  Jamieson  Jeparit  Kallista  Kalorama   Kaniva  Katamatite  Keilor   Kerang  Kilmore   Kinglake  Koondrook   Koo-wee-rup   Korumburra  Koroit   Kyabram  Kyneton  Lake Bolac  Lake Condah  Lakes Entrance  Lake Tyers  Lancefield  Lavers Hill  Leongatha  Licola  Lilydale  Lismore  Lorne  Macarthur   Maffra  Maldon  Mallacoota  Malmsbury   Mansfield  Marlo  Maryborough  Marysville  Meeniyan  Melbourne   Melton  Melville Caves  Meredith  Metung  Milawa  Mildura  Minyip   Mirboo North  Mitta Mitta  Moe-Yallourn  Moliagul   Monbulk   Mornington  Mortlake  Morwell   Mount Beauty  Mount Buffalo  Mount Buller   Mount Hotham   Mount Macedon  Mount Baw Baw  Moyston   Murchison   Murrayville  Murtoa   Myrtleford  Nagambie  Nathalia  Natimuk   Nelson  Newhaven  Nhill   Noojee   Numurkah   Nyah West   Ocean  Grove   Olinda  Omeo  Orbost  Ouyen  Pakenham  Patchewollock  Paynesville  Penshurst   Peterborough   Phillip Island  Point Lonsdale  Pomonal  Poowong  Port Albert   Port Fairy  Port Welshpool  Portarlington  Portland   Portsea   Powelltown  Princess Margaret Rose Caves  Port Campbell   Puckapunyal   Pyramid Hill  Queenscliff Rainbow   Red Cliffs   Red Hill   Robinvale  Romsey  Rosebud   Rosedale  Rupanyup  Rushworth  Rutherglen  Sale  San Remo  Sea Lake  Serpentine   Serviceton  Seymour   Shoreham  Shepparton  Sherbrooke  Skipton   Smeaton   Smythesdale   Somers  Sorrento  St Arnaud  St Leonards  Stanhope  Stawell  Steiglitz  Stratford  Strathmerton  Suggan Buggan  Sunbury   Swan Hill  Talbot  Tallangatta Tarnagulla Tarraville  Tatura  Terang Timboon Tintaldra Toora  Tooradin Torquay  Trafalgar Traralgon Trawool   Trentham  Tungamah  Turriff  Violet Town Wahgunyah   Walhalla  Walkerville  Wangaratta  Warracknabeal   Warragul Warrandyte  Warrnambool  Warburton   Wedderburn   Werribee  Whitfield  Williamstown  Wilsons Promontory   Winchelsea  Wodonga  Wonthaggi   Woodend  Wycheproof   Yackandandah Yambuk Yarra Glen Yarra Junction Yarragon  Yarram  Yarrawonga  Yea

 

Tasmania

 

 Australian Businesses for sale  Ansons Bay  Avoca   Beaconsfield  Beauty Point   Bicheno  Boat Harbour   Bothwell  Branxholm  Broadwalk Business Brokers     Contact Broadwalk  Bridgewater  Bridport   Brighton   Bronte Park  Bruny Island  Buckland   Burnie   Bushy Park  Cambridge  Campbell Town  Chudleigh  Cleveland   Colebrook   Coles Bay  Cradle Mountain  Cressy   Cygnet    Deddington  Deloraine   Derby   Derwent Bridge  Devonport   Dover  Dunalley  Eaglehawk Neck  Evandale  Exeter  Falmouth   Fingal   Flinders Island   Forth  Franklin   Geeveston  George Town  Gladstone  Gould's Country  Hadspen   Hamilton   Hastings  Hobart   Huonville  Kempton   Kettering  King Island  Kingston  Koonya   Latrobe   Launceston  Lilydale   Longford   Luina   Maria Island   Marrawah  Middleton  Miena  Mole Creek   National Park  New Norfolk   Nubeena   Oatlands  Orford   Ouse   Penguin   Perth   Pioneer   Poatina   Pontville   Port Arthur   Port Sorell  Queenstown Railton   Renison Bell   Richmond   Ringarooma  Rokeby   Rosebery   Rosevears  Ross   Saltwater River   Savage River  Scamander   Scottsdale  Sheffield   Sidmouth   Smithton  Snug   Somerset   Sorell   Southport   St Helens  St Marys   Stanley   Strahan  Strathgordon  Swansea  Taranna   Tarraleah   Tomahawk   Triabunna  Tunbridge   Ulverstone  Waratah  Weldborough  Westbury  Wilmot   Windemere  Woodbridge  Wynyard    Zeehan

South Australia

Adelaide  Adelaide Hills  Aldgate   Aldinga   Andamooka  Angaston  Ardrossan  Arkaroola  Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava   Barmera  Beachport   Bed and Breakfasts for sale   Beltana   Berri   Bethany   Birdwood   Blanchetown  Blinman  Booleroo Centre   Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bordertown  Bridgewater   Bruce  Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis  Carrieton  Caravan Parks for sale Clare   Coober Pedy   Coonalpyn   Coonawarra  Coorong  Copley   Crafers  Crystal Brook  Curramulka   Echunga  Edithburgh  Eudunda   Farms for sale   Gawler    Gladstone   Glendambo  Goolwa   Greenock   Gumeracha  Hahndorf   Hawker  Hotels for sale   Innamincka Jamestown   Kadina   Kangaroo Island  Kapunda  Karoonda  Keith  Kingston-on-Murray  Kingston South East  Lameroo   Laura   Leigh Creek   Lobethal   Loxton   Lyndhurst  Lyndoch  Maitland   Mallala  Management Rights for sale  Mambray Creek  Mannum   Marion Bay   Marla  Marree  McLaren Vale   Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton   Mintaro  Moonta  Morgan  Mount Barker   Mount Gambier   Mount Pleasant   Motels for sale   Murray Bridge  Mylor  Naracoorte   Nuriootpa    Oodnadatta   Orroroo  Padthaway   Parachilna  Paringa  Penola  Penwortham  Peterborough   Pinnaroo  Port Augusta  Port Broughton  Port Clinton  Port Elliot   Port Germein  Port MacDonnell  Port Noarlunga  Port Pirie  Port Victoria  Port Vincent  Port Wakefield  Quorn  Renmark  Reynella   Riverton   Robe   Roseworthy  Roxby Downs  Salisbury   Seppeltsfield  Sevenhill  Snowtown   Spalding  Springton   Stansbury   Stirling   Strathalbyn  Summertown  Swan Reach  Tailem Bend  Tanunda   Tarlee  Terowie  Tintinara  Truro  Victor Harbor   Waikerie   Wallaroo   Warooka   Watervale   Wellington   Williamstown   Willunga  Wilmington  Wilpena Pound   Woomera  Yankalilla  Yorketown

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River   Alice Springs   Arltunga   Arnhem Land  Barrow Creek  Batchelor   Bathurst Island  Borroloola   Daly River   Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk Daly Waters     Darwin  Dunmarra  Erldunda Escape Cliffs   Glen Helen Gove Peninsula  Groote Eylandt    Hermannsburg  Humpty Doo  Kakadu National Park  Katherine  Kings Canyon   Larrimah   Mataranka  Melville Island  Newcastle Waters   Pine Creek    Port Essington  Raffles Bay  Renner Springs   Roper Bar     Ross River   Tanami  Tennant Creek   Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope  Wollogorang

Western Australia Towns

Albany  Armadale  Augusta  Australind  Badgingarra   Balingup  Balladonia  Beacon    Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk  Bencubbin   Beverley   Bindoon   Boddington   Borden   Boyup Brook   Bremer Bay   Bridgetown   Broad Arrow   Brookton  Broome  Broomehill  Bruce Rock  Bunbury   Busselton  Caiguna   Cape Inscription  Capel   Carnamah   Carnarvon  Cervantes  Collie   Cocklebiddy   Coolgardie  Coorow   Coral Bay   Corrigin  Cossack  Cranbrook  Cuballing   Cue   Cunderdin  Dalwallinu   Dampier  Darkan  Darlington   Denham   Denmark   Derby   Dirk Hartog Island   Dongara  Donnybrook  Dowerin   Dumbleyung  Dunsborough   Dwellingup   Eneabba   Esperance    Eucla   Exmouth   Fitzroy Crossing  Fremantle    Geraldton  Gingin   Gnowangerup Goomalling  Greenbushes  Greenough Guildford  Gwalia Halls Creek   Harvey  Hopetoun  Horrocks   Hyden  Jerramungup   Jurien Bay  Kalamunda   Kalbarri   Kalgoorlie  Kalumburu   Kambalda   Kanowna  Karratha   Katanning   Kellerberrin   Kojonup  Koorda   Kulin   Kununurra   Kwinana   Lake Argyle Village   Lake Grace  Lancelin   Laverton   Leeman  Leonora   Mandurah  Manjimup  Marble Bar  Margaret River   Meekatharra  Menzies  Merredin  Midland   Mingenew   Monkey Mia  Moora  Moore River  Morowa   Mount Augustus   Mount Barker  Mount Magnet   Mukinbudin  Mullewa   Mundaring  Mundrabilla  Murchison   Nannup   Narembeen  Narrogin   New Norcia   Newman   Norseman  Northam   Northampton  Northcliffe  Nullagine  Nungarin   Ongerup   Onslow  Ora Banda   Pannawonica   Paraburdoo   Pemberton   Perenjori   Perth   Pingelly  Pinjarra  Port Gregory   Port Hedland   Prevelly Park  Quairading  Ravensthorpe   Rockingham  Roebourne  Rottnest Island   Sandstone   Shark Bay   Southern Cross   Tambellup   Tammin   Three Springs   Tom Price   Toodyay   Trayning  Turkey Creek   Wagin   Walpole  Wanneroo   Waroona   Watheroo  Westonia  Whim Creek  Wickepin   Wickham  Williams   Wiluna  Wittenoom  Wongan Hills   Wooramel   Wundowie  Wyalkatchem   Wyndham  Yalgoo  Yallingup  Yanchep  Yarloop  York

 

 

Carnarvon