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Wide main street of Carnarvon
 

Carnarvon (including Bernier Is., Quobba and Cape Cuvier)
Major township on the Gascoyne coast
Located 904 km north of Perth on the North West Coastal Highway, Carnarvon is a large and thriving town surrounded by banana plantations and set close to some of Western Australia's most beautiful and unusual coastline. It lies 3.3 m above sea level and experiences an annual average rainfall of only 229 mm. The Carnarvon Shire extends from Hamelin Pool in Shark Bay to Exmouth Station in the Pilbara.

Like so much of the Western Australian coastline the area around Carnarvon was known to Dutch sailors in the early seventeenth century. It was the Dutch sailor Henderik Brouwer who, in 1610, discovered that the best route from the Cape of Good Hope to Batavia was via the Roaring Forties. The idea was head east for a few thousand kilometres then turn left. Brouwer achieved the crossing of the Indian Ocean and turned left before reaching Western Australia. Six years later Dirk Hartog sailed too far and arrived at Cape Inscription on 26 October 1616. It was here that he placed his famous pewter plate.

After 1616 the area of the coast which includes modern day Carnarvon became known as Eendrachsland after Hartog's boat Eendracht.

The usual litany of explorers and adventurers passed through the area - Tasman, de Vlamingh, Dampier, Pelsaert, Phillip Parker King, and the Frenchmen Freycinet, Hamelin and Baudin.

No one showed any huge interest in the Eendrachsland because of the unreliability of the rainfall, the apparent non-existence of permanent water supplies, and the harsh desert vegetation which characterised the area.

The first serious exploration of the area was that undertaken by Lieutenant George Grey in 1839. By any conventional measure the journey was a disaster. In February 1839 Grey and ten men were landed on Bernier Island with three whale boats. The plan was to explore the coast north of Bernier Island. They quickly established that there was no water on the island and decided to head for the mainland. During the crossing one boat was smashed on rocks and most of the provisions for the expedition were destroyed. The trip to North West Cape was abandoned and the party attempted to return to Perth. At Gantheaume Bay the other boats were wrecked and the men (one of whom died) were forced to walk the 500 km back to Perth. Perhaps the only contribution Grey made to the area was when he named the Gascoyne River after a naval friend, Captain Gascoyne.

The area was regarded as so inhospitable that although F. T. Gregory explored it in 1858 (an epic journey which covered 2000 miles in 107 days) it wasn't until the late 1870s that settlers began to arrive. In 1876 the region's founding fathers, Aubrey Brown, John Monger and C.S. Brockman, overlanded 4000 sheep from York and established themselves in the district. Brown settled on Boolathana station and Brockman established Brickhouse station.

By 1934 (the peak period) the Gascoyne was supporting 1.4 million head of sheep. Numbers have reduced since then as an awareness of the fragile ecology of the area has forced pastoralists to appreciate the risks of overgrazing. The Western Australian Department of Agriculture describes the area as 'mulga scrubland' and that does not suggest endless paddocks of rich pasture.

The town of Carnarvon, named after Lord Carnarvon, the British Secretary of State (1866-74), was gazetted in 1883 and for most of its early life it served as a port and supply depot for the surrounding pastoral industry.

Carnarvon became the centre of an efficient wool producing area. Life on the stations was hard and brutal and the treatment of the local Aborigines was appalling. Those Aborigines who were not massacred were forced into virtual slavery by the local property owners. Camel teams, driven by Afghan camel drivers, brought the wool from the stations to the port.

The camel teams account for the extraordinary width of Robinson Street which may well (with the possible exception of the main street in Coolgardie which was formed for the same reason) be the widest street in Australia. You almost need a taxi to get from one side to the other.

The novelist Nene Gare explained the origins of the street in her novel Green Gold when she wrote: 'The wide main streets were made to take a double team of camels pulling twelve-foot-high drays shod with big iron wheels. There had to be room for the Afghan drivers to take a round turn, with the result that modern traffic finds itself with parking space in the middle of the road as well as at both sides.'

It was a man named Jack Buzolic who changed the economic nature of the town. In 1928 he wrote of the town: 'At present Carnarvon is a small place with four hotels, six stores (four held by white people and two by Chinamen), three drapery shops and one boarding house, and consists of about six hundred people...Now the whole of Carnarvon and surrounds make their living by the sheep stations in the district...My opinion is that, of the tropical fruits bananas would grow to perfection if cultivated properly.' He acted upon his opinion, planted banana suckers in 1928 and by 1930 had picked his first saleable crop. Although there had been interest in tropical agriculture since 1922 no one had really bothered until Buzolic decided to develop bananas thus broadening the economic base of the town.

People who drive over the Gascoyne River in the dry season when it is nothing more than a dry river bed will be surprised to know that it is central to the irrigation of the whole region. It does, on average, flow for 120 days each year. For the rest of the time the river literally flows upside down. Carnarvon is located at the only point on the Australian coastline where the desert reaches out into the sea. This means that the mouth of the Gascoyne River is a 300 km tongue of sand which acts as a huge water storage system. The water table (known more accurately as the river's 'aquifers') lies below the sands and the local banana plantation owners tap into it and pump the water to the surface. Currently 80 per cent of the bananas from Carnarvon are consumed in Western Australia. Crops are usually good although the area has experienced 14 cyclones, 6 floods and 7 droughts in the last 50 years.

Tours of Munro's Banana Plantation take place twice daily and bookings can be made by contacting 08 99 41 8104.

The town also is the centre of an area which grows avocados, coconuts, dates, jojoba, macadamia nuts, mangoes, pawpaws, pecans, tomatoes, pineapples, melons and various varieties of beans.

 

The Carnarvon Space Receiver Station
 

It is widely recognised that the biggest event in recent Carnarvon history was the establishment of the NASA tracking station in 1964. Its importance was based on the fact that it was the base which gave the command for the Trans Lunar Insertion (TLI) which actually sent the Apollo missions in to land on the moon.

Perhaps its greatest moment came on 20 July 1969 when Neil Armstrong stepped out of Apollo 11. His famous words 'One small step for man. One giant leap for mankind' were relayed to the world via the tracking station at Carnarvon. It was finally closed down in 1974 because it became outmoded.

 

 

Things to see:   [Top of page]

Carnarvon Space Tracking Station
The Carnarvon Space Tracking Station has a museum in the pedestal of the big dish (contact the Tourist Bureau to have it opened) with an interesting collection of bits and pieces from the moon landing period including the hand prints of the astronauts who visited Carnarvon. The museum is worth visiting for anyone interested in Australia's connections with the US space program or for people who want to be amazed at the speed at which modern technology has progressed. How can things which were considered the height of modern technology in 1969 look so old and antiquated only a couple of decades later?

 

One Mile Jetty and Lighthouse Cottage Museum
There are a number of interesting places in Carnarvon. Of the most interesting is 'One Mile Jetty', originally constructed in 1904. The jetty stretches 1493 metres into the bay on the western side of Babbage Island. For those lazy people a jetty train operates every day in the tourist season and is a convenient way of not walking the mile to the end of the jetty. At the landward end of the jetty is the excellent and interesting Lighthouse Cottage Museum which is open from 2.00 pm - 4.00 pm daily.

Maps of Carnarvon and a useful booklet Visitor's Guide to Carnarvon are available from the Tourist Bureau.

 

Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia (see Shark Bay for more details). Carnarvon is often seen as the major town for visits to Monkey Mia and certainly a number of one day and two day trips leave from the town. Contact the Tourist Bureau in Robinson Street - (08) 9941 1146 - for details. A hovercraft makes the journey from Carnarvon to Monkey Mia four times weekly.

 

 

The wreck of the Korean Star, near Carnarvon
 

Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and the Korean Star
The Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and the Wreck of the Korean Star. North of Carnarvon are some of the most interesting sights on the whole of the Western Australian coast. 24 km north of the town is a turnoff to 'The Blowholes'. This trip across near-desert landscape for 49 km offers superb views of the coast as well as the blowholes, a look at an unusual salt loading facility and the wreck of the Korean Star. The coastline is characterised by spectacularly beautiful craggy cliffs, beautiful white sandy beaches and a dramatic variety of seascapes. The road passes near to the famous Lake Macleod, a huge 225 000 hectare coastal salt lake which is 110 km long and 40 km wide. The lake is mined by Dampier Salt Pty Ltd who ship the salt out of the area from the jetty at Cape Cuvier.

The Blowholes (the plural is relevant - there must be 20 or 30 of them) are just south of the point where the road reaches the coast. The road crosses some huge sand dunes which have been whipped up by the westerlies before dropping to the coast.

 

KING WAVES KILL - reminder to the foolhardy on the coast north of Carnarvon
 

The traveller is greeted with a huge sign declaring: 'KING WAVES KILL'. It is not something to be treated with disdain. It is a sober reminder to the careless and foolhardy that over 30 people have died as a result of freak waves on the coast.

The Blowholes were first discovered by Europeans as recently as 1911 and since then they have become an increasingly popular tourist attraction.

Further north is Quobba Station standing alone and isolated between the sand dunes and the coast and 30 km north of the Blowholes is Cape Cuvier where the salt from the Dampier Salt works is loaded onto ships bound for Japan. The Carnarvon Tourist Bureau arranges tours of the Salt works every Thursday. The novel loading method involves simply bulldozing salt onto a conveyor belt which carries it to the bulk carriers which moor at the end of the jetty.

On 21 May 1988 Cyclone Herbie hit the area and the Korean Star which was waiting to be loaded was blown onto the rocks where it subsequently broke into two. The wreck lies at the bottom of the 60 metre cliffs at Cape Cuvier and can be reached by 4WD down a road which cuts between the cliffs.

 

Bernier and Dorre Islands
Off the coast from Carnarvon (and certainly not part of the regular tourist schedule for the region) are the fascinating Bernier and Dorre Islands. They are now both uninhabited apart from the very rare banded-hare wallaby, Lesueur's rat kangaroo, little barred-bandicoot and Shark Bay mouse all of which are extinct or nearly extinct on the mainland. The islands are really nothing more than narrow strips of coastal limestone surrounded by cliffs which rise, at their highest point, to about 45 metres.

Both Bernier and Dorre Island would be unimportant if they hadn't played a sad role in the decimation of the Aborigines of the Gascoyne and Pilbara. Some time before 1910 the islands became used as a 'hospital' for mainland Aborigines who had contracted venereal disease. The 'patients' were shipped across to the islands to isolate them and, in turn, they were separated so the men were located on Bernier Island and the women on Dorre. In her famous book The Passing of the Aborigines, Daisy Bates recalls: 'Dorre and Bernier Islands: there is not, in all my sad sojourn among the last sad people of the primitive Australian race, a memory one half so tragic or so harrowing, or a name that conjures up such a deplorable picture of misery and horror unalleviated, as these two grim and barren islands of the West Australian coast that for a period, mercifully brief, were the tombs of the living dead. When I landed on Bernier Island in November 1910 there were only fifteen men left alive, but I counted thirty eight graves. There were seventy-seven women on Dorre Island, many of them bed-ridden. I dared not count the graves there.

 

Reading about Carnarvon
Anyone needing more information on the town should read Merrill Findlay's outstanding book Carnarvon: Reflections of a Country Town. Findlay was Artist-in-Residence in Carnarvon in 1983 and, as a professional photojournalist, she captured the spirit of the town in a way that few local histories do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Aireys Inlet  Alberton Alexandra Anakie  Anglesea Antwerp  Apollo Bay  Apsley Ararat Australian Businesses for sale Avenel  Avoca   Bacchus Marsh  Bairnsdale  Ballan  Ballarat  Balmoral Bannockburn   Barmah   Barwon Heads  Bass   Baxter  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Beaufort  Beech Forest Beechworth  Belgrave  Bells Beach  Benalla Bendigo Berwick  Beulah Beveridge Birchip  Blackwood  Bogong Boort  Box Hill Bright Broadford  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bruthen  Buchan Buckland  Buninyong Businesses for sale Camperdown Cann River Cape Otway Caravan Parks for sale  Carisbrook Casterton Castlemaine  Charlton  Chewton  Chiltern  Churchill  Clunes  Cobden  Cobram Cohuna Colac  Coleraine  Corinella  Corryong  Cowes Craigieburn  Cranbourne Cressy  Creswick Croydon  Dandenong Dargo  Daylesford Derrinallum Dimboola Donald  Donnybrook Spa Dromana Drouin Drysdale Dunkeld  Dunolly Eaglehawk Echuca  Edenhope Eildon Eldorado Eltham Emerald Euroa Falls Creek Farms for sale  Ferntree Gully Flinders Foster Frankston French Island  Geelong Genoa Gisborne  Glenrowan Goroke Grantville Graytown  Great Western Guildford Halls Gap Hamilton Harcourt Harrietville  Harrow Hastings  Healesville Heathcote Heidelberg Hepburn Springs Heyfield  Heywood Hopetoun Horsham Hotels for sale  Inglewood Inverleigh Inverloch Inverloch Jamieson Jeparit  Kallista Kalorama  Kaniva Katamatite Keilor  Kerang Kilmore Kinglake Koondrook  Koo-wee-rup Korumburra Koroit  Kyabram Kyneton Lake Bolac Lake Condah Lakes Entrance Lake Tyers Lancefield Lavers Hill Leongatha Licola Lilydale Lismore Lorne Macarthur  Maffra Maldon Mallacoota Malmsbury  Mansfield Management Rights for sale  Marlo Maryborough Marysville Meeniyan Melbourne  Melton Melville Caves Meredith Metung Milawa Mildura Minyip  Mirboo North Mitta Mitta Moe-Yallourn Moliagul  Monbulk  Mornington Mortlake Morwell  Motels for sale  Mount Beauty Mount Buffalo Mount Buller  Mount Hotham  Mount Macedon Mount Baw Baw Moyston Murchison  Murrayville Murtoa  Myrtleford Nagambie Nathalia Natimuk  Nelson Newhaven Nhill  Noojee  Numurkah  Nyah West  Ocean Grove Olinda Omeo Orbost Ouyen Pakenham Patchewollock Paynesville Penshurst  Peterborough Phillip Island Point Lonsdale Pomonal Poowong Port Albert  Port Fairy Port Welshpool Portarlington Portland  Portsea  Powelltown  Princess Margaret Rose Caves Port Campbell  Puckapunyal  Pyramid Hill  Queenscliff  Rainbow  Red Cliffs Red Hill  Robinvale Romsey Rosebud  Rosedale Rupanyup Rushworth Rutherglen Sale  San Remo Sea Lake Serpentine  Serviceton Seymour  Shoreham Shepparton Sherbrooke  Skipton  Smeaton  Smythesdale  Somers Sorrento St Arnaud St Leonards Stanhope  Stawell Steiglitz Stratford Strathmerton Suggan Buggan Sunbury  Swan Hill Talbot Tallangatta Tarnagulla Tarraville  Tatura  Terang Timboon Tintaldra  Toora  Tooradin  Torquay Trafalgar Traralgon Trawool Trentham Tungamah  Turriff  Violet Town Wahgunyah  Walhalla Walkerville Wangaratta Warracknabeal  Warragul Warrandyte Warrnambool  Warburton Wedderburn  Werribee Whitfield Williamstown Wilsons Promontory  Winchelsea Wodonga  Wonthaggi  Woodend Wycheproof  Yackandandah Yambuk Yarra Glen Yarra Junction Yarragon Yarram Yarrawonga Yea Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale  Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Bed & Breakfasts for sale  Management rights  Farms for sale Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale   Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale caravan parks for sale Vic Motels for sale VIC hotels for sale Vic

 

Tasmania

  Australian Businesses for sale Ansons  Bay Avoca  Beaconsfield Beauty Point  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Bicheno Boat Harbour  Bothwell Branxholm  Bridgewater Bridport  Brighton  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bronte Park Bruny Island Buckland  Burnie  Businesses for sale Bushy Park Cambridge Campbell Town Caravan Parks for sale  Chudleigh Cleveland  Colebrook  Coles Bay Cradle Mountain Cressy  Cygnet    Deddington Deloraine  Derby Derwent Bridge Devonport  Dover Dunalley Eaglehawk Neck Evandale Exeter Falmouth  Farms for sale  Fingal  Flinders Island  Forth Franklin  Geeveston George Town Gladstone Gould's Country Hadspen  Hamilton  Hastings Hobart  Hotels for sale  Huonville Kempton  Kettering King Island Kingston Koonya  Latrobe  Launceston Lilydale  Longford  Luina Management Rights for sale  Maria Island  Marrawah Middleton Miena Mole Creek  Motels for sale  National Park New Norfolk  Nubeena  Oatlands Orford  Ouse  Penguin  Perth  Pioneer Poatina  Pontville  Port Arthur  Port Sorell  Queenstown  Railton  Renison Bell Richmond  Ringarooma Rokeby  Rosebery  Rosevears Ross  Saltwater River  Savage River Scamander  Scottsdale Sheffield  Sidmouth  Smithton Snug  Somerset Sorell  Southport  St Helens St Marys  Stanley  Strahan Strathgordon Swansea Taranna  Tarraleah  Tomahawk Triabunna Tunbridge  Ulverstone Waratah Weldborough Westbury Wilmot  Windemere Woodbridge Wynyard  Zeehan  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale  Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Bed & Breakfasts for sale  Management rights  Farms for sale Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale caravan parks for sale Tasmania motels for sale Tasmania hotels for sale Tasmania

South Australia

Adelaide Adelaide Hills Aldgate  Aldinga  Andamooka Angaston Ardrossan Arkaroola Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava  Barmera  Beachport  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Beltana Berri  Bethany  Birdwood  Blanchetown Blinman Booleroo Centre Bordertown  Bridgewater  Broadwalk Business Brokers   Bruce Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis Carrieton Caravan Parks for sale  Clare Coober Pedy  Coonalpyn  Coonawarra Coorong Copley  CrafersCrystal Brook Curramulka  Echunga  Edithburgh Eudunda  Farms for sale  Gawler   Gladstone Glendambo  Goolwa  Greenock    Gumeracha Hahndorf  Hawker Hotels for sale  Innamincka  Jamestown  Kadina  Kangaroo Island Kapunda Karoonda Keith Kingston-on-Murray Kingston South East Lameroo  Laura  Leigh Creek  Lobethal  Loxton  Lyndhurst Lyndoch Maitland  Mallala  Mambray Creek  Management Rights for sale  Mannum  Marion Bay  Marla Marree McLaren Vale Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton Mintaro  Moonta Morgan Mount Barker  Mount Gambier  Motels for sale  Mount Pleasant    Murray Bridge  Mylor Naracoorte  Nuriootpa   Oodnadatta  Orroroo Padthaway  Parachilna Paringa Penola  Penwortham Peterborough  Pinnaroo Port Augusta Port Broughton Port Clinton Port Elliot  Port Germein Port MacDonnell Port Noarlunga Port Pirie Port Victoria Port Vincent Port Wakefield Quorn Renmark Reynella  Riverton  Robe  Roseworthy Roxby Downs Salisbury Seppeltsfield Sevenhill Snowtown  Spalding Springton  Stansbury  Stirling Strathalbyn Summertown Swan Reach Tailem Bend Tanunda  Tarlee Terowie Tintinara Truro  Victor Harbor  Waikerie  Wallaroo  Warooka Watervale  Wellington  Williamstown  Willunga Wilmington Wilpena Pound  Woomera Yankalilla   Yorketown Motels for sale, Hotels for sale Caravan Parks for sale Australian Businesses for sale Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale  Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Bed & Breakfasts for sale  Management rights  Farms for sale Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River Alice Springs Arltunga Arnhem Land Barrow Creek Batchelor Bathurst Island  Borroloola Daly River Daly Waters Darwin Dunmarra Erldunda  Escape Cliffs  Glen Helen   Gove Peninsula Groote Eylandt Hermannsburg Humpty Doo Kakadu National Park Katherine Kings Canyon Larrimah  Mataranka Melville Island Newcastle Waters Pine Creek  Port Essington Raffles Bay  Renner Springs  Roper Bar Ross River  Tanami Tennant Creek  Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope Wollogorang

 

 

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