|
| Wide
main street of Carnarvon
|
Carnarvon (including Bernier Is.,
Quobba and Cape Cuvier)
Major township on the Gascoyne coast
Located 904 km north of Perth on the
North West Coastal Highway, Carnarvon is
a large and thriving town surrounded by
banana plantations and set close to some
of Western Australia's most beautiful
and unusual coastline. It lies 3.3 m
above sea level and experiences an
annual average rainfall of only 229 mm.
The Carnarvon Shire extends from Hamelin
Pool in Shark Bay to Exmouth Station in
the Pilbara.
Like so much of the Western
Australian coastline the area around
Carnarvon was known to Dutch sailors in
the early seventeenth century. It was
the Dutch sailor Henderik Brouwer who,
in 1610, discovered that the best route
from the Cape of Good Hope to Batavia
was via the Roaring Forties. The idea
was head east for a few thousand
kilometres then turn left. Brouwer
achieved the crossing of the Indian
Ocean and turned left before reaching
Western Australia. Six years later Dirk
Hartog sailed too far and arrived at
Cape Inscription on 26 October 1616.
It was here that he placed his famous
pewter plate.
After 1616 the area of the coast
which includes modern day Carnarvon
became known as Eendrachsland after
Hartog's boat Eendracht.
The usual litany of explorers and
adventurers passed through the area -
Tasman, de Vlamingh, Dampier, Pelsaert,
Phillip Parker King, and the Frenchmen
Freycinet, Hamelin and Baudin.
No one showed any huge interest in
the Eendrachsland because of the
unreliability of the rainfall, the
apparent non-existence of permanent
water supplies, and the harsh desert
vegetation which characterised the area.
The first serious exploration of the
area was that undertaken by Lieutenant
George Grey in 1839. By any conventional
measure the journey was a disaster. In
February 1839 Grey and ten men were
landed on Bernier Island with three
whale boats. The plan was to explore the
coast north of Bernier Island. They
quickly established that there was no
water on the island and decided to head
for the mainland. During the crossing
one boat was smashed on rocks and most
of the provisions for the expedition
were destroyed. The trip to North West
Cape was abandoned and the party
attempted to return to Perth. At
Gantheaume Bay the other boats were
wrecked and the men (one of whom died)
were forced to walk the 500 km back to
Perth. Perhaps the only contribution
Grey made to the area was when he named
the Gascoyne River after a naval friend,
Captain Gascoyne.
The area was regarded as so
inhospitable that although F. T. Gregory
explored it in 1858 (an epic journey
which covered 2000 miles in 107 days) it
wasn't until the late 1870s that
settlers began to arrive. In 1876 the
region's founding fathers, Aubrey Brown,
John Monger and C.S. Brockman,
overlanded 4000 sheep from York and
established themselves in the district.
Brown settled on Boolathana station and
Brockman established Brickhouse station.
By 1934 (the peak period) the
Gascoyne was supporting 1.4 million head
of sheep. Numbers have reduced since
then as an awareness of the fragile
ecology of the area has forced
pastoralists to appreciate the risks of
overgrazing. The Western Australian
Department of Agriculture describes the
area as 'mulga scrubland' and that does
not suggest endless paddocks of rich
pasture.
The town of Carnarvon, named after
Lord Carnarvon, the British Secretary of
State (1866-74), was gazetted in 1883
and for most of its early life it served
as a port and supply depot for the
surrounding pastoral industry.
Carnarvon became the centre of an
efficient wool producing area. Life on
the stations was hard and brutal and the
treatment of the local Aborigines was
appalling. Those Aborigines who were not
massacred were forced into virtual
slavery by the local property owners.
Camel teams, driven by Afghan camel
drivers, brought the wool from the
stations to the port.
The camel teams account for the
extraordinary width of Robinson Street
which may well (with the possible
exception of the main street in
Coolgardie which was formed for the same
reason) be the widest street in
Australia. You almost need a taxi to get
from one side to the other.
The novelist Nene Gare explained the
origins of the street in her novel Green
Gold when she wrote: 'The wide main
streets were made to take a double team
of camels pulling twelve-foot-high drays
shod with big iron wheels. There had to
be room for the Afghan drivers to take a
round turn, with the result that modern
traffic finds itself with parking space
in the middle of the road as well as at
both sides.'
It was a man named Jack Buzolic who
changed the economic nature of the town.
In 1928 he wrote of the town: 'At
present Carnarvon is a small place with
four hotels, six stores (four held by
white people and two by Chinamen), three
drapery shops and one boarding house,
and consists of about six hundred
people...Now the whole of Carnarvon and
surrounds make their living by the sheep
stations in the district...My opinion is
that, of the tropical fruits bananas
would grow to perfection if cultivated
properly.' He acted upon his opinion,
planted banana suckers in 1928 and by
1930 had picked his first saleable crop.
Although there had been interest in
tropical agriculture since 1922 no one
had really bothered until Buzolic
decided to develop bananas thus
broadening the economic base of the
town.
People who drive over the Gascoyne
River in the dry season when it is
nothing more than a dry river bed will
be surprised to know that it is central
to the irrigation of the whole region.
It does, on average, flow for 120 days
each year. For the rest of the time the
river literally flows upside down.
Carnarvon is located at the only point
on the Australian coastline where the
desert reaches out into the sea. This
means that the mouth of the Gascoyne
River is a 300 km tongue of sand which
acts as a huge water storage system. The
water table (known more accurately as
the river's 'aquifers') lies below the
sands and the local banana plantation
owners tap into it and pump the water to
the surface. Currently 80 per cent of
the bananas from Carnarvon are consumed
in Western Australia. Crops are usually
good although the area has experienced
14 cyclones, 6 floods and 7 droughts in
the last 50 years.
Tours of Munro's Banana Plantation
take place twice daily and bookings can
be made by contacting 08 99 41 8104.
The town also is the centre of an
area which grows avocados, coconuts,
dates, jojoba, macadamia nuts, mangoes,
pawpaws, pecans, tomatoes, pineapples,
melons and various varieties of beans.
|
| The
Carnarvon Space Receiver Station
|
It is widely recognised that the
biggest event in recent Carnarvon
history was the establishment of the
NASA tracking station in 1964. Its
importance was based on the fact that it
was the base which gave the command for
the Trans Lunar Insertion (TLI) which
actually sent the Apollo missions in to
land on the moon.
Perhaps its greatest moment came on
20 July 1969 when Neil Armstrong stepped
out of Apollo 11. His famous words 'One
small step for man. One giant leap for
mankind' were relayed to the world via
the tracking station at Carnarvon. It
was finally closed down in 1974 because
it became outmoded.
Things to see:
Carnarvon Space Tracking Station
The Carnarvon Space Tracking Station has
a museum in the pedestal of the big dish
(contact the Tourist Bureau to have it
opened) with an interesting collection
of bits and pieces from the moon landing
period including the hand prints of the
astronauts who visited Carnarvon. The
museum is worth visiting for anyone
interested in Australia's connections
with the US space program or for people
who want to be amazed at the speed at
which modern technology has progressed.
How can things which were considered the
height of modern technology in 1969 look
so old and antiquated only a couple of
decades later?
One Mile Jetty and Lighthouse
Cottage Museum
There are a number of interesting places
in Carnarvon. Of the most interesting is
'One Mile Jetty', originally constructed
in 1904. The jetty stretches 1493 metres
into the bay on the western side of
Babbage Island. For those lazy people a
jetty train operates every day in the
tourist season and is a convenient way
of not walking the mile to the end of
the jetty. At the landward end of the
jetty is the excellent and interesting
Lighthouse Cottage Museum which is open
from 2.00 pm - 4.00 pm daily.
Maps of Carnarvon and a useful
booklet Visitor's Guide to Carnarvon are
available from the Tourist Bureau.
Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia (see Shark Bay for more
details). Carnarvon is often seen as the
major town for visits to Monkey Mia and
certainly a number of one day and two
day trips leave from the town. Contact
the Tourist Bureau in Robinson Street -
(08) 9941 1146 - for details. A
hovercraft makes the journey from
Carnarvon to Monkey Mia four times
weekly.
|
| The
wreck of the Korean Star, near
Carnarvon |
Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod
and the Korean Star
The Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and
the Wreck of the Korean Star. North of
Carnarvon are some of the most
interesting sights on the whole of the
Western Australian coast. 24 km north of
the town is a turnoff to 'The
Blowholes'. This trip across near-desert
landscape for 49 km offers superb views
of the coast as well as the blowholes, a
look at an unusual salt loading facility
and the wreck of the Korean Star. The
coastline is characterised by
spectacularly beautiful craggy cliffs,
beautiful white sandy beaches and a
dramatic variety of seascapes. The road
passes near to the famous Lake Macleod,
a huge 225 000 hectare coastal salt lake
which is 110 km long and 40 km wide. The
lake is mined by Dampier Salt Pty Ltd
who ship the salt out of the area from
the jetty at Cape Cuvier.
The Blowholes (the plural is relevant
- there must be 20 or 30 of them) are
just south of the point where the road
reaches the coast. The road crosses some
huge sand dunes which have been whipped
up by the westerlies before dropping to
the coast.
|
| KING
WAVES KILL - reminder to the
foolhardy on the coast north of
Carnarvon |
The traveller is greeted with a huge
sign declaring: 'KING WAVES KILL'. It is
not something to be treated with
disdain. It is a sober reminder to the
careless and foolhardy that over 30
people have died as a result of freak
waves on the coast.
The Blowholes were first discovered
by Europeans as recently as 1911 and
since then they have become an
increasingly popular tourist attraction.
Further north is Quobba Station
standing alone and isolated between the
sand dunes and the coast and 30 km north
of the Blowholes is Cape Cuvier where
the salt from the Dampier Salt works is
loaded onto ships bound for Japan. The
Carnarvon Tourist Bureau arranges tours
of the Salt works every Thursday. The
novel loading method involves simply
bulldozing salt onto a conveyor belt
which carries it to the bulk carriers
which moor at the end of the jetty.
On 21 May 1988 Cyclone Herbie hit the
area and the Korean Star which was
waiting to be loaded was blown onto the
rocks where it subsequently broke into
two. The wreck lies at the bottom of the
60 metre cliffs at Cape Cuvier and can
be reached by 4WD down a road which cuts
between the cliffs.
Bernier and Dorre Islands
Off the coast from Carnarvon (and
certainly not part of the regular
tourist schedule for the region) are the
fascinating Bernier and Dorre Islands.
They are now both uninhabited apart from
the very rare banded-hare wallaby,
Lesueur's rat kangaroo, little
barred-bandicoot and Shark Bay mouse all
of which are extinct or nearly extinct
on the mainland. The islands are really
nothing more than narrow strips of
coastal limestone surrounded by cliffs
which rise, at their highest point, to
about 45 metres.
Both Bernier and Dorre Island would
be unimportant if they hadn't played a
sad role in the decimation of the
Aborigines of the Gascoyne and Pilbara.
Some time before 1910 the islands became
used as a 'hospital' for mainland
Aborigines who had contracted venereal
disease. The 'patients' were shipped
across to the islands to isolate them
and, in turn, they were separated so the
men were located on Bernier Island and
the women on Dorre. In her famous book
The Passing of the Aborigines, Daisy
Bates recalls: 'Dorre and Bernier
Islands: there is not, in all my sad
sojourn among the last sad people of the
primitive Australian race, a memory one
half so tragic or so harrowing, or a
name that conjures up such a deplorable
picture of misery and horror
unalleviated, as these two grim and
barren islands of the West Australian
coast that for a period, mercifully
brief, were the tombs of the living
dead. When I landed on Bernier Island in
November 1910 there were only fifteen
men left alive, but I counted thirty
eight graves. There were seventy-seven
women on Dorre Island, many of them
bed-ridden. I dared not count the graves
there.
Reading about Carnarvon
Anyone needing more information on the
town should read Merrill Findlay's
outstanding book Carnarvon: Reflections
of a Country Town. Findlay was
Artist-in-Residence in Carnarvon in 1983
and, as a professional photojournalist,
she captured the spirit of the town in a
way that few local histories do.
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