|
| Mount
Toolbrunup - the Stirling Ranges near
Cranbrook |
Cranbrook (including Frankland and the
Sterling Ranges National Park)
The Gateway to the Stirling Ranges National
Park
Located 318 km south east of Perth, Cranbrook is
a tiny, rather inconsequential service centre
for the surrounding sheep and cattle country. It
is a typical small rural centre with a single
pub, some wheat silos and grain loading
facilities.
Cranbrook's one real point of interest is
that, as a huge sign proudly announces, it is
'The Gateway to the Sterlings' and the Stirling
Ranges are one of the true natural wonders of
Western Australia.
The first European to sight the majestic
Stirling Ranges was Ensign Dale who, in 1832,
passed through the area and climbed Mount
Toolbrunup. He was followed three year later by
the Surveyor General John Septimus Roe, who
named the range after Captain Stirling, the
Governor of the Swan River Colony. Roe has left
us with impressions of the Range which remain
unchanged today. In his journal he was lyrical
in his praise of this beautiful range.
'The Stirling Range burst on our view in
great magnificence as we rounded the crest...The
whole extent of the conical summits were spread
before us.'
|
| A flowering
gum and bottle brushes in Stirling
National Park |
The Colonial botanist, James Drummond, made a
number of visits to the Ranges in the 1840s and
began the process of scientific exploration
which has revealed that there are over 1000
types of flora in the Park of which 60 are
unique to the area. Driving through the area, or
better still, exploring the park along the many
trails and bushwalks, reveals a richness of
flora and fauna set against the breathtaking
beauty of the ranges which rise sharply from the
surrounding plains.
The area was first settled in the 1860s when
pastoralists started grazing sheep near Round
Swamp. With its mild temperatures and good
rainfall (annual average of 510 mm) it was ideal
sheep country.
Cranbrook came into existence in the 1880s
when the railway line connected the area to
Albany. The railway siding was named Cranbrook
by the Hon. J. A. Wright who was in charge of
construction of the railway station. He was
honouring his birthplace, Cranbrook in England.
Things to see:
![[Top of page]](smlArrow.gif)
Stirling Range National Park
The great attraction of the Cranbrook area is
the Stirling Range National Park which boasts 15
peaks over 900 m and 50 peaks above 600 m. The
drive through the Park, most of it on good dirt
roads, is one of the wonders of Western
Australia. Here is an area of great diversity
and beauty with huge varieties of flora and
fauna.
Stirling Range Heritage Trail
There are a number of major walking trails in
the Stirling Range National Park. The Stirling
Range Heritage Trail brochure, which provides an
adequate map of all routes and interesting
information on flora in the park, provides the
following advice on each track:
MT MAGOG 8 km return. Hard, 3-4 hours
Please note there is no path for the final 1
km to the summit.
MT TALYUBERLUP 3 km return. Moderate, 2 hours
Caverns and precipitous rocks at the summit
of this mountain make this an exciting climb.
MT HASSELL 4 km return. Moderate, 2-3 hours
At present this walk commences at the picnic
area but is due to be relocated to the new car
park soon.
MT TOOLBRUNUP 4 km return. Hard, 3 hours
This walk is often regarded as the best in
the Park. Excellent views from the summit, and
dramatic rocky outcrops provide spectacular
scenery.
Trails are steep and rough. Carry water and
be prepared for weather changes.'
To which information can be added, from the
Cranbrook: Gateway to the Stirling Range
brochure (which is available in most stores
around Cranbrook), the practical observations
that Toolbrunup is 'One of the best climbs and
the most spectacular 360 degree view', that
Talyuberlup has 'terrific views and is easier to
climb' and that Mount Hassell is good 'to tackle
if your young children are going with you'. This
very handy brochure also nominates places
through the park where particular species of
flora - scarlet banksia, Cranbrook bells,
dryandra etc - can be easily located.
Driving through the Stirling Ranges it is
impossible not to be overwhelmed by the richness
of the native flora. Beside the road orchids,
flowering gums, blackboys, orchids and the
unique Cranbrook Bell catch the eye.
The very useful CALM brochure Stirling Range
and Porongurup National Parks (available free
from the CALM offices in the area and from
Tourist Bureaus) describes the geology of the
area in terms of 'The Range was formed over 1000
million years ago when this area was a shallow
sea and sediment was deposited on the granite
lowland. After the sea receded the area of the
range sank. The surrounding area gradually
eroded back to basic granite and the Range was
slowly uplifted, eventually weathering to its
present form. The Chester and Red Gum passes
mark the courses of river that flowed south
during the early stages of formation. Ripple
marks can still be seen on the exposed rock.'
MONDURUP PEAK
N.B. Access to Mondurup Peak has been
permanently closed by Department of Conservation
and Land Management. The peak is relatively free
of 'Dieback', a devastating soil dwelling
fungus, and access has been closed to prevent
walkers spreading infected soil in the vicinity
of threatened declared rare flora communities.
80 rare species occur in the park and are found
nowhere else in the world.
Frankland
47 km west of the Cranbrook is the small
settlement of Frankland. In recent times its two
major wineries - the Alkoomi Vineyard (08 9855
2229 and the Frankland River Vineyard (08 9855
1563 - have won numerous awards. There is a
Frankland Heritage Trail brochure which is
remarkable for the fact that, in a journey of
160 km, most of the attractions - the Old
Frankland Hall, the Old School, Andy Ronald's
Accident, Haynesdale School, Bokerup Homestead -
are all now only sites. The buildings and events
are now long demolished or departed.
