The old Post Office

 

Halls Creek (including the Bungle Bungles and Wolfe Creek Crater)
Fascinating outback town which is now two separate townships
Halls Creek is not the town it used to be. This is true both literally and metaphorically as, in 1948, the town was physically removed from its original site to its present location. Thus, like so many towns in the Kimberley, there are two Halls Creeks. In 1948 the town began its movement from Old Halls Creek (15 km away) to the present site. This process continued until the old township was finally abandoned in 1954. The reasons for the change of location were a combination of lack of water (people in the town still marvel at how the old timers managed to survive at the old settlement) and a re–routing of the main Derby-Kununurra Road to avoid winding through the hills around the old town.

The town's movement was vital for its survival. It had come into existence as a gold mining town and with the gold now gone it was nothing more than a service centre for the surrounding pastoral holdings and the traffic which moved along the highway. If it did not move with the highway then its survival was in jeopardy.

Today Halls Creek is a small, predominantly Aboriginal settlement. Located 2977 km from Perth and 423 metres above sea level it is roughly midway between Kununurra (365 km) and Derby (555 km). It services the ever-increasing tourist trade with a hotel, motel, caravan park, two roadhouses and a number of tours to the Bungle Bungles and Wolfe Creek Crater.

The area was first explored by Alexander Forrest in 1879. Forrest reported on the pastoral potential of the area but it was his brother John Forrest, then the WA Surveyor-General, who, while surveying the area, noted that it 'bore distinct indications of gold'. Two men, Adam Johns and Phil Saunders, passed through the East Kimberley shortly afterwards but they found only a few ounces. But Forrest had created real interest and in 1885 Charlie Hall (after whom the town is named) and Jack Slattery sailed up the coast to Derby and travelled up the Fitzroy River before cutting across country to the Elvire River. They struck gold virtually everywhere they went and by the time they returned to Derby they were carrying over 200 ounces of gold. The goldrush was on. Gold had been discovered on 14 July 1885 and within weeks miners from as far away as New Zealand and the eastern states were pouring into the region. It was the first discovery of payable gold in Western Australia. The towns of Wyndham and Derby boomed as, in the space of two years, over 10 000 men passed through the ports. Men walked across the continent from Queensland. But the gold was short–lived. Transportation problems, a harsh and inhospitable environment, and the discovery of gold at Coolgardie reduced Halls Creek to a near ghost town by 1888.

Today Old Halls Creek is nothing more than some remnants of buildings, some street signs, the ruins of the old mud brick Post Office, a recently built well to celebrate the discovery of gold in the area, a graveyard, and a modern restaurant.

The graveyard is not really of great historical importance. Perhaps the most famous grave is that of James 'Jimmy' Darcy who made the front page of most Australian newspapers in 1917 - no mean achievement given that the country was in the middle of the Great War.

Darcy was a stockman at Ruby Plains Station 75 km south of Halls Creek. He was mustering cattle when he fell from his horse and was seriously injured. When his friends found him they took him by buggy to Halls Creek (the journey took 12 hours) but there was neither a doctor nor a hospital in the town. The local postmaster had enough medical knowledge to realise that Darcy needed immediate medical attention. He telegraphed both Wyndham and Derby but the doctors from both towns were on holidays. He then telegraphed Perth and, using only morse code, a Dr J. Holland diagnosed Darcy as having a ruptured bladder. He had to be operated on immediately. Messages flashed back and forth in morse code.

'You must operate.' 'But I have no instruments.' 'You have a penknife and razor.' 'What about drugs?' 'Use permanganate of potash.' 'But I can't do it.' 'You must.' 'I might kill the man.' 'If you don't hurry, the patient will die first.'

Tuckett strapped Darcy to the table and began operating according to instructions he received by telegraph. The operation took seven hours - with no anaesthetic. A day later complications set in. It became obvious that a doctor would have to come to Halls Creek. In the meantime Darcy's dilemma had caught the imagination of the Australian public who followed the progress of the saga with insatiable interest.

Dr Holland took a cattle boat from Perth to Derby and then travelled the last 555 km by T-model Ford, horse and sulky and foot. He finally arrived in Halls Creek only to find that Darcy had died the day before. It was this event which inspired Rev John Flynn to establish the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Darcy had not died in vain. His plight had focussed the entire nation on the problems of medical services in isolated areas and out of it grew Flynn's unique experiment in outback medicine.

Many of the graves in the Old Hall's Creek cemetery are quite recent dating from the 1940s and 1950s. One grave however records the death of a man who, in 1909, died of thirst in the Tanami Desert. It is grim reminder that life in the outback is a constant battle with the elements. As the town's information directory puts it: 'The Kimberley in itself is not inherently dangerous. But an even greater degree than the sea is unforgiving of carelessness, ignorance and impatience.'

It was south of Halls Creek that the two teenagers James Annetts and Simon Amos disappeared from Sturt Creek and Nicholson Stations in 1986 only to be found dead in the Great Sandy Desert. The area is still unforgiving to those who make even the slightest mistakes.

 

 

 

 

 

Things to see:  

Old Halls Creek
Today Old Halls Creek is nothing more than some remnants of buildings, some street signs, the ruins of the old mud brick Post Office, a recently built well to celebrate the discovery of gold in the area, a graveyard, and a modern restaurant.

The graveyard is not really of great historical importance. Perhaps the most famous grave is that of James 'Jimmy' Darcy who made the front page of most Australian newspapers in 1917 - no mean achievement given that the country was in the middle of the Great War.

 

 

The China Wall near Halls Creek

 

The China Wall
The 15 km journey out to Old Halls Creek on the Duncan Road passes the town's two major tourist attractions. A few kilometres out of town is a sign to the China Wall. 1.5 km off the road is a strange limestone formation which rises from a creek up over a small hill. It is a natural formation of white quartz which does look like a small version of the famous Great Wall of China. The stream below is surrounded by trees and in the 'green season' it is an ideal location for swimming.

 

Caroline Pool
Further on is the Caroline Pool, another popular local swimming spot, which is reminiscent of the gorges along the MacDonnell Ranges in Central Australia. The river comes between two cliffs and forms a deep pool in the gorge.

 

Caroline Pool at the end of the dry season

 

 

Wolfe Creek Crater
But it is the Wolfe Creek Crater and the Bungle Bungles which hold the most appeal. Neither is easy to get to. Wolfe Creek Crater is located 151 km south of the town on a less than perfect dirt road. Known to the Djaru Aborigines as Kandimalal it was named Wolf Crater after Robert Tennant Stowe Wolfe, a digger and storekeeper who lived in Halls Creek in the late 1880s. The first Europeans to see the crater were F. Reeves, N. B. Sauve and D. Hart who sighted it while carrying out an aerial survey of the area in 1947. Later that year the three men reached the crater by land.

There is some dispute as to the crater's status with some sources claiming that it is the second largest meteorite crater on earth (the other being in Arizona) while others claim it as the fourth largest. Both these claims should be treated with considerable scepticism. The excellent Wolf Creek Crater by Ken McNamara (published by the Western Australian Museum) claims that in Western Australia alone the Goat Paddock Crater and 'The Spider' crater are considerably larger. Perhaps the final word on this confusion belongs to McNamara who, having weighed the evidence as to whether Wolf Crater was really formed by a meteorite, observes: 'In a 1 to 5 classification of craters, only 12 are categorised as Class 1; included is the Wolf Creek Crater. Class 1 craters are those with which meteoric material has been found, and are considered to have probably been formed by an explosion caused by meteor impact with the Earth. Of the Class 1 craters Wolf Creek is the second largest in the world, being exceeded in size only by the Arizona crater.'

Regardless of these counter-claims Wolf Crater, with a diameter of 853 metres and a depth of 61 metres it is still very big. It was probably as much as 200 m deep when it was originally formed. From the distance it appears as a low hill but when the rim of the crater is reached it is a sight of great symmetry and beauty. The age of the crater is unknown but available evidence suggests that it was probably formed about 2 million years ago. Because of the extreme dryness of the area the erosion of the crater has been very slow. Accommodation is offered at nearby Carranya Station Camping Grounds which are 7 km from the crater. The Station can be contacted through the Derby Flying Doctor Base on 08 9191 1612.

 

Bungle Bungles
If Wolfe Creek Crater is dramatic it is nothing in comparison to the Bungle Bungles which, if they weren't so inaccessible, would certainly be one of Australia's premier tourist attractions.

Known to the local Aborigines as Purnululu, the Bungle Bungles are located north east of Halls Creek (take the Great Northern Highway 109 km north from Halls Creek and turn east on the Spring Creek Track) on a road which is so bad that the RAC has this to say about it: 'The distance from the highway to the Three-Ways intersection is only 55 km, however, the trip will take two or three hours and the track is suitable only for 4WDs with good clearance. Caravans will not survive the trip.' Reaching the campsites involves further travelling for at least another hour.

The journey is still richly rewarded. The Bungle Bungles are one of the wonders of outback Australia. Formed over 350 million years ago the sandstone massif has the appearance of gigantic bell shaped rock towers with horizontal banding produced by layers of black lichens and orange silica. The sandstone is so fine that it crumbles when touched. The area is a wonderland of Aboriginal art, huge gullies and dramatic caves like the spectacular Piccaninny Gorge - a 15 km, 8 hour walk from the road.

It is claimed that in the early years of white settlement of the Kimberley, when the brutal massacres of local Aborigines were at their height, that many Aborigines retreated to the safety of the Bungle Bungles climbing up to the plateau with notched tree trunks which they pulled up after themselves to prevent pursuit.

 

 

Australian Businesses for sale

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Motels for sale

Hotels for sale

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NSW towns

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Qld Towns

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Victoria

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Tasmania

 

 Australian Businesses for sale  Ansons Bay  Avoca   Beaconsfield  Beauty Point   Bicheno  Boat Harbour   Bothwell  Branxholm  Broadwalk Business Brokers     Contact Broadwalk  Bridgewater  Bridport   Brighton   Bronte Park  Bruny Island  Buckland   Burnie   Bushy Park  Cambridge  Campbell Town  Chudleigh  Cleveland   Colebrook   Coles Bay  Cradle Mountain  Cressy   Cygnet    Deddington  Deloraine   Derby   Derwent Bridge  Devonport   Dover  Dunalley  Eaglehawk Neck  Evandale  Exeter  Falmouth   Fingal   Flinders Island   Forth  Franklin   Geeveston  George Town  Gladstone  Gould's Country  Hadspen   Hamilton   Hastings  Hobart   Huonville  Kempton   Kettering  King Island  Kingston  Koonya   Latrobe   Launceston  Lilydale   Longford   Luina   Maria Island   Marrawah  Middleton  Miena  Mole Creek   National Park  New Norfolk   Nubeena   Oatlands  Orford   Ouse   Penguin   Perth   Pioneer   Poatina   Pontville   Port Arthur   Port Sorell  Queenstown Railton   Renison Bell   Richmond   Ringarooma  Rokeby   Rosebery   Rosevears  Ross   Saltwater River   Savage River  Scamander   Scottsdale  Sheffield   Sidmouth   Smithton  Snug   Somerset   Sorell   Southport   St Helens  St Marys   Stanley   Strahan  Strathgordon  Swansea  Taranna   Tarraleah   Tomahawk   Triabunna  Tunbridge   Ulverstone  Waratah  Weldborough  Westbury  Wilmot   Windemere  Woodbridge  Wynyard    Zeehan

South Australia

Adelaide  Adelaide Hills  Aldgate   Aldinga   Andamooka  Angaston  Ardrossan  Arkaroola  Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava   Barmera  Beachport   Bed and Breakfasts for sale   Beltana   Berri   Bethany   Birdwood   Blanchetown  Blinman  Booleroo Centre   Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bordertown  Bridgewater   Bruce  Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis  Carrieton  Caravan Parks for sale Clare   Coober Pedy   Coonalpyn   Coonawarra  Coorong  Copley   Crafers  Crystal Brook  Curramulka   Echunga  Edithburgh  Eudunda   Farms for sale   Gawler    Gladstone   Glendambo  Goolwa   Greenock   Gumeracha  Hahndorf   Hawker  Hotels for sale   Innamincka Jamestown   Kadina   Kangaroo Island  Kapunda  Karoonda  Keith  Kingston-on-Murray  Kingston South East  Lameroo   Laura   Leigh Creek   Lobethal   Loxton   Lyndhurst  Lyndoch  Maitland   Mallala  Management Rights for sale  Mambray Creek  Mannum   Marion Bay   Marla  Marree  McLaren Vale   Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton   Mintaro  Moonta  Morgan  Mount Barker   Mount Gambier   Mount Pleasant   Motels for sale   Murray Bridge  Mylor  Naracoorte   Nuriootpa    Oodnadatta   Orroroo  Padthaway   Parachilna  Paringa  Penola  Penwortham  Peterborough   Pinnaroo  Port Augusta  Port Broughton  Port Clinton  Port Elliot   Port Germein  Port MacDonnell  Port Noarlunga  Port Pirie  Port Victoria  Port Vincent  Port Wakefield  Quorn  Renmark  Reynella   Riverton   Robe   Roseworthy  Roxby Downs  Salisbury   Seppeltsfield  Sevenhill  Snowtown   Spalding  Springton   Stansbury   Stirling   Strathalbyn  Summertown  Swan Reach  Tailem Bend  Tanunda   Tarlee  Terowie  Tintinara  Truro  Victor Harbor   Waikerie   Wallaroo   Warooka   Watervale   Wellington   Williamstown   Willunga  Wilmington  Wilpena Pound   Woomera  Yankalilla  Yorketown

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River   Alice Springs   Arltunga   Arnhem Land  Barrow Creek  Batchelor   Bathurst Island  Borroloola   Daly River   Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk Daly Waters     Darwin  Dunmarra  Erldunda Escape Cliffs   Glen Helen Gove Peninsula  Groote Eylandt    Hermannsburg  Humpty Doo  Kakadu National Park  Katherine  Kings Canyon   Larrimah   Mataranka  Melville Island  Newcastle Waters   Pine Creek    Port Essington  Raffles Bay  Renner Springs   Roper Bar     Ross River   Tanami  Tennant Creek   Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope  Wollogorang

Western Australia Towns

Albany  Armadale  Augusta  Australind  Badgingarra   Balingup  Balladonia  Beacon    Broadwalk Business Brokers   Contact Broadwalk  Bencubbin   Beverley   Bindoon   Boddington   Borden   Boyup Brook   Bremer Bay   Bridgetown   Broad Arrow   Brookton  Broome  Broomehill  Bruce Rock  Bunbury   Busselton  Caiguna   Cape Inscription  Capel   Carnamah   Carnarvon  Cervantes  Collie   Cocklebiddy   Coolgardie  Coorow   Coral Bay   Corrigin  Cossack  Cranbrook  Cuballing   Cue   Cunderdin  Dalwallinu   Dampier  Darkan  Darlington   Denham   Denmark   Derby   Dirk Hartog Island   Dongara  Donnybrook  Dowerin   Dumbleyung  Dunsborough   Dwellingup   Eneabba   Esperance    Eucla   Exmouth   Fitzroy Crossing  Fremantle    Geraldton  Gingin   Gnowangerup Goomalling  Greenbushes  Greenough Guildford  Gwalia Halls Creek   Harvey  Hopetoun  Horrocks   Hyden  Jerramungup   Jurien Bay  Kalamunda   Kalbarri   Kalgoorlie  Kalumburu   Kambalda   Kanowna  Karratha   Katanning   Kellerberrin   Kojonup  Koorda   Kulin   Kununurra   Kwinana   Lake Argyle Village   Lake Grace  Lancelin   Laverton   Leeman  Leonora   Mandurah  Manjimup  Marble Bar  Margaret River   Meekatharra  Menzies  Merredin  Midland   Mingenew   Monkey Mia  Moora  Moore River  Morowa   Mount Augustus   Mount Barker  Mount Magnet   Mukinbudin  Mullewa   Mundaring  Mundrabilla  Murchison   Nannup   Narembeen  Narrogin   New Norcia   Newman   Norseman  Northam   Northampton  Northcliffe  Nullagine  Nungarin   Ongerup   Onslow  Ora Banda   Pannawonica   Paraburdoo   Pemberton   Perenjori   Perth   Pingelly  Pinjarra  Port Gregory   Port Hedland   Prevelly Park  Quairading  Ravensthorpe   Rockingham  Roebourne  Rottnest Island   Sandstone   Shark Bay   Southern Cross   Tambellup   Tammin   Three Springs   Tom Price   Toodyay   Trayning  Turkey Creek   Wagin   Walpole  Wanneroo   Waroona   Watheroo  Westonia  Whim Creek  Wickepin   Wickham  Williams   Wiluna  Wittenoom  Wongan Hills   Wooramel   Wundowie  Wyalkatchem   Wyndham  Yalgoo  Yallingup  Yanchep  Yarloop  York