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The view from Five Rivers Lookout
 

Wyndham
Exotic and unusual isolated town in the far north of Western Australia.
Wyndham, Western Australia's most northerly town, is about as isolated as any town in Australia can be. It sits on the edge of the Cambridge Gulf slowly boiling under the oppressive tropical sun, surrounded by salt lakes, desert and mudflats which stretch to the horizon. It is located 3351 km from Perth via the North West Coastal Highway and 930 km from Derby.

It is, like so many of the towns in the Kimberleys, actually two towns. There is old Wyndham (known as Wyndham Port) sweltering in the heat under that part of the Erskine Range known as 'The Bastion' and, a few kilometres up the Gulf on the road to Kunanurra there is Wyndham Three Mile (sometimes known as Wyndham East).

The traditional Aboriginal inhabitants of the area were the Djeidji, Dulngari and Aruagga tribes who lived on the rich harvest of seafood available in the gulf.

The first European explorer into the area was Phillip Parker King who sailed the 83 ton cutter Mermaid around La Crosse Island and into the body of water he subsequently named Cambridge Gulf after the then Duke of Cambridge. King arrived in the region on 19 September 1819. He had been given the brief to explore the far western Australian coast and discover a river 'likely to lead to an interior navigation into the great continent'. He sailed up a river (which was subsequently named after him) and, unable to find any signs of fresh water on the mudflats, departed.

King's description was so pessimistic that no Europeans visited the area for the next sixty years. It wasnıt until 1879 that Alexander Forrest (see Kunanurra for more detail) travelled through the area and sent back reports of the huge pastoral potential. These reports excited the interest of Solomon Emanuel and Patrick Durack who sent a party to the area in 1881 which confirmed Forrest's earlier assessment.

In 1883 John Forrest, at the time the WA Commissioner of Lands, surveyed the area and hinted that the area Œbore distinct indications of goldı. It was in that same year that Patrick 'Patsy' Durack began his epic trek from southwest Queensland to the region with 7250 head of breeding cattle and 200 horses. It was the longest overlanding of cattle ever attempted in Australia and lasted 2 years and four months.

1884 saw the first settlement of the East Kimberley. The isolation of the area at this time was truly horrific. The Cushidoo was the first ship to land supplies at the site of Wyndham. The supplies were meant for the Ord River Station but by the time people from the station arrived to collect the shipment the local Aborigines had removed all but a few bags of well hidden flour. This was also the year when Charlie Hall (see Halls Creek) discovered gold in the East Kimberley thus sparking a goldrush to the region.

In 1885 Wyndham was established as a port and trading station. A couple of general stores were opened and the first shipment of cattle and sheep arrived in the Gulf.

By 1886 the town was booming. There were six pubs (including a large two storey building which was only knocked down in 1965), ships landed at least 5000 miners who all headed off to the Halls Creek goldfields, a townsite near the present day meatworks was surveyed and blocks of land sold (mostly to speculators who never inspected their purchases), and a number of shanties and resting spots grew up along the track to the goldfields. It is known that during this boom there were times when up to 16 vessels were moored in Cambridge Gulf.

The goldrush at Halls Creek was short lived. By 1888 the rush was over and the effect on the fortunes of Wyndham was obvious. One remnant from this period is the ruins of the Magistrateıs Residence (turn east around the northern end of the mudflats beyond the hotel at Wyndham Port - it is worthwhile stopping at the Tourist Information Centre and getting a copy of the mud map of the two townships).

There seems to be some confusion about the Magistrate's Residence. Some sources claim that it was never completed because the local Aborigines harassed the builders. Others claim that the walls once rose to a height of 22 feet (6.7 metres) and that a number of magistrates lived in the residence until it was closed down in the early 1900s.

From 1888 until 1919 Wyndham was a tiny settlement serving the pastoral interests in East Kimberley. Stories of this period have an amusing, outback feel to them. The arrival of the Overland Telegraph Line in 1889 provided the local Aborigines with an excellent source of spearheads as they climbed up the poles and helped themselves to the ceramic insulators. In 1900 the population of the town comprised 61 people of voting age of whom 60 voted for federation. The solitary anti-federationist never disclosed his or her identity.

By 1912 money had virtually disappeared from the town's economy with everything being paid for with promissory notes known as 'shinplasters' which were issued by publicans and storekeepers. To the delight of the people who issued them these 'shinplasters' often became illegible if left in a sweaty pocket for too long.

By World War 1 the town was effectively controlled by the Duracks who owned the nearby cattle stations. It was therefore appropriate that in 1913 the WA Government started constructing the Wyndham Meatworks. Work was interrupted by the war but the Meatworks were finally completed in 1919. They continued to be the townıs main economic raison dıetre until they was closed down in 1985. The last bullock was killed and exported on 10 October, 1985.

Today Wyndham Port is still operational but it exports live cattle to Asia and lead and zinc to Korea. The townıs newest industry is an export crocodile farm (located just beyond the old Magistrates Residence). It is hoped that eventually up to 3000 crocodiles a year can be farmed.

With a population of between 1200-1500 Wyndham is now partly sustained by tourism as more and more travellers visit this strange and exotic old port.

Writers and commentators have not been terribly kind to Wyndham. Most of the travel writers have suggested that the town has a special charm but, having said that, they have proceeded to paint a picture which has more than a passing resemblance to hell.

In 1951 George Farwell in his book The Outside Track described the town as 'a lonely pin-point of settlement upon a vast and empty landscape of tidal estuaries, mangroves, unpeopled valley floors and barren, tree-less ranges' and two years later Leslie Rees painted a grim picture of the town as having a foreground of 'empty 44-gallon drums, beer bottles, old tins, bits of sheet iron, termite-eaten wood. A background of salt marshes and harsh, desolate hills under the torrid sun'. Neither of these descriptions is flattering to Wyndham. However they do evoke the strangeness of this town on the far edge of the continent.


 

 

Things to see:   [Top of page]

Five Rivers Lookout
A suitable starting point is Five Rivers Lookout. It is clearly signposted from Wyndham Three Mile and rises to the east of the town offering one of the most dramatic views anywhere along the Australian coastline. The view over the five rivers (the Durack, King, and Pentecost to the south, Forrest to the west and Ord to the north) and the vast mud flats which sprawl in every direction give the lookout a viewpoint which can only be bettered by actually flying over the town.

 

 

The Big Crocodile in the main street
 

The Big Crocodile
At the entrance to Wyndham Three Mile there is a huge 20 metre long concrete crocodile in the middle of the road. It is hard to avoid it. This Œtourist attractionı is an interesting example of computer technology. Designed and built by sculptor Andrew Hickson the students from the Halls Creek TAFE it consists of 5.5 km of steel rod, 10 rolls of bird mesh and 6 cubic metres of concrete. It was created by photographing a crocodile and having a computer at Curtin University plot 2400 mathematical coordinates of the crocodile's shape.

 

Crocodile Lookout
The town's fascination with crocodiles is justified. Cambridge Gulf is teeming with them. At the port (just north of the wharf) is the Crocodile Lookout but it is more historical than a reality. This used to be the site where blood from the townıs meatworks drained into the Gulf. The local crocodiles, eager for a little blood or leftover meat, would gather on the muddy banks of the river. Today the site is typical crocodile territory - muddy mangroves and muddy water - but a visitor would be lucky to see a crocodile.

 

Wyndham Port
Near the Crocodile Lookout are the old meatworks buildings and at the beginning of the road to the lookout is a small display of the trains and cranes which operated on the wharf. The original late-nineteenth landing (Antonıs Landing) was burnt down in 1944 and the wharf which now services Wyndham Port was first built in 1919 to coincide with the opening of the meatworks. 40 metres north of the wharf is the wreck of the Koolama which sank in 1947. It is totally submerged but a hint of its location can be determined by the swirling waters.

While in Wyndham Port stop at the Old Post Office (on the western side of the road) which is now the Tourist Information Centre and Post Office Museum. It is located over the road from the low security prison, surely one of Wyndham Portıs strangest sights. It is quite common to see prisoners knocking fruit from the trees in the prison grounds or sitting on the grass sunning themselves and watching the world go by.

 

Wyndham Three Mile
At Wyndham Three Mile the local Aboriginal population have constructed a set of huge statues depicting an Aboriginal family complete with a dingo and kangaroo (this is one block to the east of the main street). In the same street is a wonderful relic of Wyndhamıs steamy nights - a classic outback cinema with comfortable deck chairs, a small screen and enclosed projector booth.

 

 

The Grotto near Wyndham
 

The Prison Tree and The Grotto
The area around Wyndham is surrounded by places of great interest. Along the King River road is a Prison Tree, a hollowed out old baobab tree which was used as a temporary lockup by the local police, and on the road to Kunanurra The Grotto (signposted at the west of the road) is worth a visit. Staircases carved out of the rock lead to a quiet waterhole oasis in a kind of cool amphitheatre. It is one of those strange anomalies in the landscape. Access to the Grotto is along 2 km of reasonable dirt road.

 

 

 

 

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  Australian Businesses for sale Ansons  Bay Avoca  Beaconsfield Beauty Point  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Bicheno Boat Harbour  Bothwell Branxholm  Bridgewater Bridport  Brighton  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Bronte Park Bruny Island Buckland  Burnie  Businesses for sale Bushy Park Cambridge Campbell Town Caravan Parks for sale  Chudleigh Cleveland  Colebrook  Coles Bay Cradle Mountain Cressy  Cygnet    Deddington Deloraine  Derby Derwent Bridge Devonport  Dover Dunalley Eaglehawk Neck Evandale Exeter Falmouth  Farms for sale  Fingal  Flinders Island  Forth Franklin  Geeveston George Town Gladstone Gould's Country Hadspen  Hamilton  Hastings Hobart  Hotels for sale  Huonville Kempton  Kettering King Island Kingston Koonya  Latrobe  Launceston Lilydale  Longford  Luina Management Rights for sale  Maria Island  Marrawah Middleton Miena Mole Creek  Motels for sale  National Park New Norfolk  Nubeena  Oatlands Orford  Ouse  Penguin  Perth  Pioneer Poatina  Pontville  Port Arthur  Port Sorell  Queenstown  Railton  Renison Bell Richmond  Ringarooma Rokeby  Rosebery  Rosevears Ross  Saltwater River  Savage River Scamander  Scottsdale Sheffield  Sidmouth  Smithton Snug  Somerset Sorell  Southport  St Helens St Marys  Stanley  Strahan Strathgordon Swansea Taranna  Tarraleah  Tomahawk Triabunna Tunbridge  Ulverstone Waratah Weldborough Westbury Wilmot  Windemere Woodbridge Wynyard  Zeehan  Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale  Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Bed & Breakfasts for sale  Management rights  Farms for sale Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale caravan parks for sale Tasmania motels for sale Tasmania hotels for sale Tasmania

South Australia

Adelaide Adelaide Hills Aldgate  Aldinga  Andamooka Angaston Ardrossan Arkaroola Auburn  Australian Businesses for sale  Balaklava  Barmera  Beachport  Bed and Breakfasts for sale Beltana Berri  Bethany  Birdwood  Blanchetown Blinman Booleroo Centre Bordertown  Bridgewater  Broadwalk Business Brokers   Bruce Burra  Businesses for sale Cape Jervis Carrieton Caravan Parks for sale  Clare Coober Pedy  Coonalpyn  Coonawarra Coorong Copley  CrafersCrystal Brook Curramulka  Echunga  Edithburgh Eudunda  Farms for sale  Gawler   Gladstone Glendambo  Goolwa  Greenock    Gumeracha Hahndorf  Hawker Hotels for sale  Innamincka  Jamestown  Kadina  Kangaroo Island Kapunda Karoonda Keith Kingston-on-Murray Kingston South East Lameroo  Laura  Leigh Creek  Lobethal  Loxton  Lyndhurst Lyndoch Maitland  Mallala  Mambray Creek  Management Rights for sale  Mannum  Marion Bay  Marla Marree McLaren Vale Melrose  Meningie Milang  Millicent  Minlaton Mintaro  Moonta Morgan Mount Barker  Mount Gambier  Motels for sale  Mount Pleasant    Murray Bridge  Mylor Naracoorte  Nuriootpa   Oodnadatta  Orroroo Padthaway  Parachilna Paringa Penola  Penwortham Peterborough  Pinnaroo Port Augusta Port Broughton Port Clinton Port Elliot  Port Germein Port MacDonnell Port Noarlunga Port Pirie Port Victoria Port Vincent Port Wakefield Quorn Renmark Reynella  Riverton  Robe  Roseworthy Roxby Downs Salisbury Seppeltsfield Sevenhill Snowtown  Spalding Springton  Stansbury  Stirling Strathalbyn Summertown Swan Reach Tailem Bend Tanunda  Tarlee Terowie Tintinara Truro  Victor Harbor  Waikerie  Wallaroo  Warooka Watervale  Wellington  Williamstown  Willunga Wilmington Wilpena Pound  Woomera Yankalilla   Yorketown Motels for sale, Hotels for sale Caravan Parks for sale Australian Businesses for sale Broadwalk Business Brokers  Businesses for sale  Caravan parks for sale  Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Bed & Breakfasts for sale  Management rights  Farms for sale Brisbane Businesses for sale  Gold Coast Businesses for sale  Sydney Businesses for sale  Australian Businesses for sale Motels for sale  Hotels for sale  Caravan Parks for sale  Businesses for sale  Coffs Harbour Businesses for sale

 

Northern Territory

Adelaide River Alice Springs Arltunga Arnhem Land Barrow Creek Batchelor Bathurst Island  Borroloola Daly River Daly Waters Darwin Dunmarra Erldunda  Escape Cliffs  Glen Helen   Gove Peninsula Groote Eylandt Hermannsburg Humpty Doo Kakadu National Park Katherine Kings Canyon Larrimah  Mataranka Melville Island Newcastle Waters Pine Creek  Port Essington Raffles Bay  Renner Springs  Roper Bar Ross River  Tanami Tennant Creek  Ti Tree Timber Creek  Uluru Victoria River  Wauchope Wollogorang

 

Wyndham