|
| Lake McKenzie, the 'Blue
Lake', near Central Station, Fraser Island
|
Fraser Island
Spectacularly beautiful sand island full of hidden
delights and wonders.
There is no doubt that Fraser Island ranks as one of the
true wonders of Australia. It is the largest sand island in
the world and has such a range of attractions and activities
that it is a must for anyone travelling along the Queensland
coast. It is on Fraser Island that the visitor can see
extraordinary freshwater sand dune lakes, beautiful quiet
streams, white beaches, rainforest, eucalypt forest, cliffs
with remarkable coloured sand horizons and rugged headlands.
Located just off the coast from Hervey Bay (which is 300
km north of Brisbane and 37 km east of Maryborough) Fraser
Island is 123 km long and varies from 7 km to 22 km wide. It
covers an area of 184 000 sq. km and has sand dunes which
rise to a height of 240 m. It is estimated that the sands
which make up Fraser Island reach over 600 m below the sea.
The first European to sight Fraser Island was Captain
James Cook who passed along the coast of the island between
18-20 May 1770 and named Indian Head after seeing a number
of Aborigines assembled there. He was not impressed with the
island observing that 'The land hereabouts which is of
moderate height, appears more barren than any we have yet
seen on this coast, and the soil more sandy'.
In 1799 and 1802 Matthew Flinders sailed past the island.
He mapped it both times but on neither occasion did he
confirm that it was separated from the mainland. He
suspected that it was an island but was unable to sail
around it.
Like Cook before him, Flinders was far from impressed
with the land noting: 'This part of the coast is very
barren; there being great patches of moveable sand many
acres in extent through which appeared in some places the
green tops of grass, half buried, and in others the naked
trunks of such as the sand has destroyed.'
The most famous early contact with the island was that of
Eliza Fraser (after whom the island is named) and her
shipwrecked companions from the brig the Stirling Castle. On
13 May 1836, while travelling from Sydney to Singapore, the
Stirling Castle struck the Great Barrier Reef about 320 km
south of Torres Strait. Captain James Fraser, his pregnant
wife Eliza, and 18 passengers and crew launched the ship's
longboat and pinnacle and set course for Moreton Bay. During
the next six weeks Eliza gave birth (the baby survived for
only a few hours) and the pinnacle was cut adrift and,
although Captain Fraser had been trying to avoid the coast
for fear of the Aborigines, it was forced to land for water
on the Great Sandy Island (Fraser Island) on 26 June.
The local Aborigines stripped the survivors and separated
Eliza from her husband. For the next two months the Frasers
(the Captain was to die) and the other survivors were put to
work and forced to live in arduous conditions.
Eventually a search party from Moreton Bay led by
Lieutenant Charles Otter was sent out to search for the
survivors. John Graham, a remarkable convict who had once
lived with the Aborigines, found Eliza and escorted her back
to Moreton Bay. She subsequently sailed to Sydney where she
was feted as a heroine. The people of Sydney, impressed by
her bravery, raised a considerable amount of money for her
by public subscription.
Before Eliza departed for England she married Captain
Alexander John Greene of the Mediterranean Packet. In
England she published a book of her adventures which went by
the delightful title of The Shipwreck of Mrs Fraser, and the
loss of the Stirling Castle, on a Coral Reef in the South
Pacific Ocean. Containing an account of the hitherto
unheard-of sufferings and hardships of the crew, who existed
for seven days without food or water. The dreadful
sufferings of Mrs. Fraser. who, with her husband, and the
survivors of the ill-fated crew, are captured by the savages
of New Holland, and by them stripped entirely naked, and
driven into the bush. Their dreadful slavery, cruel toil,
and excruciating tortures inflicted on them. The horrid
death of Mr. Brown, who was roasted alive over a slow fire
kindled beneath his feet. Meeting of Mr. and Mrs. Fraser,
and inhuman murder of Captain Fraser in the presence of his
wife. Barbarous treatment of Mrs Fraser, who is tortured,
speared, and wounded by the savages. The fortunate escape of
one of the crew, to Moreton Bay, a neighbouring British
settlement, by whose instrumentality, through the ingenuity
of a convict, named Graham, the survivors obtain their
deliverance from the savages. Their subsequent arrival in
England, and appearance before the Lord Mayor of London.'
Yes, that was the book's title!
It was a huge best seller in England. After such a
dramatic life Eliza slipped into quiet obscurity. She and
Captain Greene returned to the Antipodes. Eliza was
accidentally run over and killed in Melbourne in 1858.
The story has captured the Australian imagination. It has
been made into a TV program and a film. Sidney Nolan did two
series of paintings based on the story and Patrick White's
novel A Fringe of Leaves is based on the events.
For people who are seeing the island's rainforests for
the first time, White's description is evocative: 'Now it
hushed the strangers it was initiating. At some stages of
the journey the trees were so densely massed, the columns so
moss-upholstered or lichen-encrusted, the vines suspended
from them so intricately rigged, the light barely slithered
down, and then a dark, watery green, though in rare gaps
where the sassafras had been thinned out, and once where a
giant blackbutt had crashed, the intruders might have been
reminded of actual light if this had not flittered, again
like moss, but dry, crumbled, white to golden.'
|
| The rusty wreck of the
Maheno on the eastern beach |
The first European to sail between the mainland and
Fraser Island was Lieutenant Robert Dayman. He had been one
of the survivors of the Stirling Castle ordeal. He managed
to complete the journey upon his return to the area in 1847.
Dayman Point at Urangan (see Hervey Bay) was named after
him.
The history of Fraser Island through the latter half of
the nineteenth century is one more sad example of the
decimation of Australia's original inhabitants. It has been
estimated that the Aboriginal population of the island was
between 2000-3000 in 1850. By 1890 it had been reduced to
300. The combination of diseases brought by passing sailors
(Fraser Island was used as a kind of trading post for
Maryborough), alcohol, the exploitation of the island's
timber reserves from 1863 and the enslavement of the
Aborigines, wreaked havoc on the population. The 1860
decision to gazette the island as an Aboriginal Reserve
meant nothing. By the turn of the century most of the
Aborigines had been dispersed to the mainland or had died in
the dubious missions which were established on the island.
The last of the Fraser Island Aborigines to be removed to
the mainland was 'Banjo' Henry Owens who was sent to the
Cherbourg Mission in the 1930s. The island's population had
been as totally destroyed. The situation bore remarkable
similarities to the genocide of the Aboriginal population of
Tasmania.
In 1870, as a result of a series of shipwrecks, a
lighthouse was built at Sandy Cape. This was the first
permanent European settlement on the island.
There have been a number of excellent books written about
the island. The best, in terms of the history, flora, fauna
and geomorphology, is Discovering Fraser Island by John
Sinclair (one time President of the Fraser Island Defence
Organisation and The Australian's Australian of the Year in
1976) which is detailed, comprehensive and informative. No
serious visit to the island should be attempted without it.
It lists all the major fauna and flora to be found on the
island as well as providing a detailed geomorphological
explanation of the island's formation.
Sinclair's list of twenty places of interest on the
island is definitive. There is Woongoolbver Creek which
carries clear water through the island's rainforest at
Central Station (Central Station was once the home of over
100 people and the centre of the forestry industry on the
island), Lake Wabby, the island's deepest lake which is rich
in fish and surrounded by ancient melaleucas (it is slowly
being filled by a giant sandblow), Rainbow Gorge with its
coloured sand formations, Eli Creek, the wreck of the Maheno
(after thirty years of service in Australian waters it was
being towed to Japan as scrap when it hit cyclonic
conditions off the coast and was washed ashore on 9 July
1935), the rocky outcrops at Indian Head, Middle Rocks and
Waddy Point, the multi-coloured 'Cathedrals' and 'Pinnacles'
which lie to the north of the wreck of the Maheno, the
various lakes on the island which include Lake Bowarrady
(120 m above sea level), Lake McKenzie, Lake Boemingen
(reputedly the largest perched lake in the world), Ocean
Lake, Hidden Lake, and Coomboo Lake, the scrubs and swamps,
and McKenzie's Jetty which was originally built as an access
point to the mainland for the timber cutters and
subsequently used by the Z Force during World War II (see
Hervey Bay). It is now derelict.
Since the 1960s Fraser Island has been at the centre of a
series of bitter environmental battles. The first battle, in
the 1970s, focussed on sand mining and most recently there
has been a battle over the logging of the island.
The environmental history of the island is not something
which Australians can be very proud of. The first attempt to
establish the island as a National Park was made as early as
1893 but the timber interests which were already on the
island managed to dissuade the government and for the next
60 years the island was logged. In 1961 there was a move to
give the island to the Nauruans to compensate them for the
wholesale destruction of Nauru by phosphate (bird droppings)
miners from Australia and New Zealand. The timber industry
managed to ensure that this proposal did not proceed.
By the mid 1960s a number of mining leases had been taken
out on parts of the island by Queensland Titanium Mines Pty
Ltd and Murphyores. The wealth of the island lay in its rich
deposits of rutile, ilmenite, zircon and monazite. The
battle raged through the both the state and federal courts
and resulted in the historic Fraser Island Environmental
Inquiry which, in October 1976, decided that all sand mining
should be banned and that the island should be recorded as
part of the National Estate. The inquiry concluded that:
'The natural environment of Fraser Island is of great
significance, complexity and fragility. The island possesses
individual features of great attraction and importance -
such as its perched lakes, immense beaches, cliffs of Teewah
(coloured) sands, sandblows and rainforested sand dunes. But
the inevitable highlighting of the presence and importance
of these individual features of its natural environment
should not be allowed to obscure the links and
interdependency of its many fragile elements, while,
overall, an impression of wilderness gives unity to the
broad spectrum of the particular natural features of the
island.'
It may have seemed like the fight over Fraser Island was
over but in 1990 there were still battles going on over the
logging of the island's rainforest. The arguments of the
timber lobby were predictable. Timber had been logged on the
island for over a century so how could further logging
damage an already damaged environment. The environmentalists
argued that the island was simply too valuable for logging
to continue. Today Fraser Island is World Heritage listed
and almost the entire island is protected National Park,
ideal for camping, 4WD and bushwalking. The island is
visited by around 200,000 travellers each year, yet it does
preserve a sense of remoteness. It preseves ancient
Aboriginal sites and a a range of wildlife including over
200 bird species, brumbies, dingoes, wallabies and echidnas.
Accommodation ranges from flats, motels and holiday houses
to campsites. Happy Valley and Eurong Resorts cater for
fishing guests and can arrange 4WD hire.
Apart from Hervey Bay there are two other mainland
centres which offer access to Fraser Island: Rainbow Beach
and Tin Can Bay.
Things to see:
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Ferries
Ferry services to Fraser Island depart from three different
locations: Rainbow Beach, River Heads (an outer southern
port for Hervey bay located east of Maryborough) and Hervey
Bay. Services from Rainbow Beach are as follows:
There are currently three vehicular barges which all
operate on demand from Inskip Point (7 km north of Rainbow
Beach) on the mainland, and Hook Point on the island.
Departures kick off at around 7.00 a.m. and conclude at
about 6.00 p.m., with extended hours in peak times. There is
no need to book. Two of the vessels - the Rainbow Venture
and Elmer's Barge - are associated with Eurong Resort on
Fraser Island (tel: 07 5486 3227). The other is the Manta
Ray, tel: (07) 5486 8600 or (0418) 872 599 or
Manta-ray@rainbow-beach.org. In September 2002, a price war
was raging and the cost, per vehicle (driver and passengers
included), dropped to as little as $20 return, but this may
well not last long.
Services from Hervey Bay Boat Harbour and River Heads all
require advance bookings. The Fraser Dawn departs from
Hervey Bay Boat Habour at Urangan for Moon Point at 8.30
a.m. and 3.30 p.m. daily, returning from Moon Point at 9.30
a.m. and 5.00 p.m. daily. The trip takes about one hour and,
in September 2002, the price was $82 return for one vehicle
and driver plus $5.50 for each additional person at school
age and above. For walk-on passengers the cost was $16.50
return per person, tel: (07) 4125 4444.
Also departing from Hervey Bay Boat Harbour, at Urangan,
is a passenger service bound for the Kingfisher Bay Resort
on Fraser Island. This is NOT a vehicle barge. It departs at
6.45 a.m., 8.45 a.m., midday and 4.00 p.m. daily, plus an
additional departure at 6.30 a.m. from Sunday to Thursday
and at 7.00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The return trips
depart Kingfisher Resort at 7.40 a.m., 10.30 a.m., 2.00
p.m., 5.00 p.m. and 8.00 p.m. daily. The cost is $35 return,
per adult and $17.50 return, per child aged over four, tel:
(1800) 072 555.
The Kingfisher Resort also has a passenger service which
departs from River Heads at 7.15 a.m., 10.00 a.m. and 3.30
p.m. daily, with return services departing from the resort
at 8.00 a.m., 1.30 p.m. and 4.00 p.m. The prices are the
same as from Urangan.
It is also possible to take a vehicle barge called the
Fraser Venture from River Heads to Wonggoolba Creek (a
thirty minute trip). They depart at 9.00 a.m., 10.15 a.m.
and 3.30 p.m. daily, with an additional service at 7.00 a.m.
Saturday. The return trips depart from Wonggoolba Creek at
9.30 a.m., 3.30 p.m. and 4.00 p.m. daily with an additional
service at 7.30 a.m. on Saturdays, tel: (07) 4125 4444. The
prices for the Fraser Venture are the same as those for the
Fraser Dawn.
Maps of the island are for sale at all ferry points. It
is important to remember that a permit is required to drive
on Fraser Island, for which a fee is payable. They can be
obtained from the Queensland National Parks and Wildlife
Service offices. One is located at Rainbow Beach and is open
from 7.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. daily (tel: 07 5486 3160) and
another is located at River Heads. There are also fees for
usage of the camping facilities on the island.
Stonetood Sand Dune
This huge dune is currently moving across the island burying
everything in its way. The movement, driven by the
prevailing winds, is very slow. The size of the dune is
remarkable. It is not possible to walk across the dune.
Although the island has been used for over 100 years by
Europeans there is now a genuine environmental concern which
recognises the delicate ecology of the region.
Eli Creek
Eli Creek is the largest freshwater stream on the eastern
coast of the island. It is an area of exceptional and
pristine beauty. There are a number of wooden walkways and a
short, circular route runs up one side of the creek and down
the other. It is possible to swim in the lower reaches of
the creek. On a hot day it is very cool and refreshing.
|
| Eli Creek, the largest
creek on Fraser Island |
The Wreck of the Maheno
After thirty years of service in Australian waters the
Maheno, a huge cruise vessel, was being towed to Japan as
scrap when it hit cyclonic conditions off the coast and was
washed ashore on 9 July 1935. The past 60 years of waves and
weathering have reduced this once huge vessel to a small
rusting hulk.
The Pinnacles and the Cathedrals
These coloured sand cliffs have been sculptured by the wind
and rain blowing in off the Pacific Ocean. The colours -
red, brown, yellow and orange - are spectacular. The size of
the cliff faces is a reminder of how large the sand dunes on
the island are.
Central Station
The Woongoolbver Creek which carries clear water through the
island's rainforest at Central Station (Central Station was
once the home of over 100 people and the centre of the
forestry industry on the island) is one of the most
beautiful retreats on the whole of the island. It seems as
though this area inspired the Australian Nobel Prize winner
Patrick White whose description of the island in the novel A
Fringe of Leaves includes the lines: 'Now it hushed the
strangers it was initiating. At some stages of the journey
the trees were so densely massed, the columns so
moss-upholstered or lichen-encrusted, the vines suspended
from them so intricately rigged, the light barely slithered
down, and then a dark, watery green, though in rare gaps
where the sassafras had been thinned out, and once where a
giant blackbutt had crashed, the intruders might have been
reminded of actual light if this had not flittered, again
like moss, but dry, crumbled, white to golden.'
Lake McKenzie
There are a number of freshwater lakes on the island
including Lake Bowarrady (120 m above sea level), Lake
McKenzie, Lake Boemingen (reputedly the largest perched lake
in the world), Ocean Lake, Hidden Lake, and Coomboo Lake.
Each is notable for the clarity of the water, the purity of
the white sands on the surrounding beaches and the
peacefulness of the area. They are ideal places for picnics
and fishing.
Tours
Fraser Island Adventure Tours are located at 4 Mooloola St,
Minyama, tel: (07) 5444 6957 or
www.fraserislandadventuretours.com.au
Horseriding
Clip Clop Treks operate lengthy horse rides from Rainbow
Beach, across the ferry to Fraser Island, and also around
the hinterland,
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