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| The Post Office in the
East Street Mall, Rockhampton |
Rockhampton
A gracious and elegant coastal city.
Rockhampton is one of the finest cities in Queensland.
Certainly for elegance and style it is the equal of
Townsville, Ipswich, Warwick and Charters Towers. The
central business district, particularly Quay Street (which
is part of the National Estate) and East Street, is one of
Australia's most elegant streetscapes. The concentration of
beautiful old buildings, the tree lined streets, the malls,
the lazy Fitzroy river beside Quay Street, all make this
area of Rockhampton one of the delights of any visit to the
city.
Initially this concentration of buildings tends to
overwhelm the visitor. The Rockhampton's Heritage brochure
(available at the Tourist Information Centre in East Street
Mall) lists 26 buildings of historical significance in three
blocks of Quay Street and East Street. However, the reality
is far more manageable.
But before inspecting these superb buildings it is
necessary to get the city into context.
Rockhampton is the unofficial capital of Central
Queensland. It is located 638 km north of Brisbane, 8 m
above sea level and just a few kilometres north of the
Tropic of Capricorn.
The area was first explored by Charles and William Archer
who discovered and named the Fitzroy River (after Governor
Charles Fitz Roy) on 4 May 1853. The Archers were of
Scottish descent but their family had moved to Norway in
1825. It was from their adopted country that they took the
names
Eidsvold and Berserker (a Norse hero) after whom they
named the local mountain range.
Charles Archer moved into the area in 1855 (he settled on
Gracemere Station - see below) and the following year the
New South Wales Government (Queensland was not a separate
colony at the time) decided to establish a settlement near
the mouth of the Fitzroy River. The site chosen was the
rocky upper limit of navigation on the river. This offered
an obvious, if somewhat unimaginative, name to the town.
'Rock' was simply attached to the English suffix 'Hampton'
which denotes a place near water (as in Northampton,
Wolverhampton, and Southampton) to produce a name which
meant 'place near the rocks in the river'.
The town grew slowly with the first store being built in
1856 and the first inn appearing six months later. The
discovery of gold at Canoona in 1858 resulted in a sudden
influx of miners and prospectors. The rush was short lived
but it did ensure a dramatic increase in the local
population. Some people stayed to work on the surrounding
cattle properties while others found work in Rockhampton
which had grown significantly as a result of the rush.
Queensland is unique amongst the Australian states in
that it has a number of genuine coastal capitals. This sense
of individuality has made cities like Cairns, Townsville,
Rockhampton, Mackay, Bundaberg and Maryborough independent
centres which do not rely on Brisbane. It has also ensured
that rural Queenslanders don't see Brisbane in the same way
that people in New South Wales, for example, regard Sydney.
It is worth noting that when Queensland became an
independent colony the people of Rockhampton were eager to
establish themselves as an independent state. They certainly
didn't appreciate being answerable to politicians in
Brisbane. From the early 1860s Rockhampton was the home of
an active and committed secession movement.
Rockhampton continued to grow throughout the nineteenth
century. It was lucky to have a series of industries
surrounding it which ensured its continuing prosperity.
There was wool which inevitably, because of the climate,
gave way to cattle. Today Rockhampton proudly declares
itself the 'Beef Cattle Capital of Australia'.
It is not easy to forget that today the city's wealth is
largely based on the cattle industry which surrounds it.
Reminders exist at both the northern and southern ends of
town where the visitor is greeted by life size statues of
bulls in the median strip. There is also a huge 'big bull'
on top of a shopping complex at the southern end of town.
The city's early wealth was built on the gold which was
discovered in the hinterland. The first wave of miners in
the 1860s did not have a major impact on the development of
the city. It was the later discoveries, particularly at
Mount Morgan (q.v.), which created the wealth out of which
the city's stately buildings were constructed.
Mining began at Mount Morgan in 1882. On 22 July 1882 the
Morgan brothers, after whom the town is named, pegged out a
gold mining lease on Ironstone Mountain (Mount Morgan).
The Morgans, with some Rockhampton businessmen, formed a
six man partnership to mine the mountain. All the partners
became fabulously rich. One of the partners in the syndicate
was Thomas Skarrat Hall whose brother's widow donated some
of the Mount Morgan fortune to a fund which established the
famous Walter and Eliza Hall Institute of Medical Research
in Melbourne.
Another partner was William Knox D'Arcy, who having made
an incredible £6 million from his share in the mine by 1889,
went to London and later made another fortune when he
financed drilling for oil in Persia (modern day Iran), which
led to the formation of the famous BP Company.
Some of the money from Mount Morgan inevitably found its
way to the port. Many of Rockhampton's more ostentatious
buildings were constructed from the wealth of the Mount
Morgan goldmine.
In recent times Rockhampton has been sustained by the
mining activities in the Bowen Basin where towns like
Blackwater, Dysart and Moura produce vast quantities of coal
which is transported to the coast by rail and shipped
overseas. Rockhampton with its population of over 60 000 and
its specialist services has become the centre for the mining
towns which lie beyond the Great Dividing Range.
Among the city's more famous sons and daughters are the
novelist Ernestine Hill (1900-1972) who wrote My Love Must
Wait, a popular account of the life of Matthew Flinders,
Vincent Gair (Premier of Queensland 1952-57, leading member
of the famous Labor Party split, Federal Senator 1964-74 and
Ambassador to Ireland after Gough Whitlam managed to remove
him from the Senate with the offer of an overseas posting
which was heavy with irony) and Rod Laver, the man reputed
to be the greatest tennis player ever.
Things to see:
Buildings in the Central Business District
Rockhampton's Heritage brochure is divided into an hour's
walk through the town centre (two-three hours may be more
realistic) and a 90 minute drive through the suburbs and
into the surrounding rural hinterland.
The walk through the town centre includes a total of 35
buildings of which the most significant are:
The Post Office.
Located on the corner of East Street Mall and Denham Street
this huge two storey Classical Revival building dominates
the Rockhampton CBD streetscape. It was designed by the
architect G Connolly and constructed of Stanwell sandstone
by Collins and McLean in 1895. The most striking features of
the building are the superb colonnades and the clock tower
and belfry. The interior has been modernised but the facade
and clock tower stand as a reminder of a time when
Rockhampton could make legitimate claims to be the capital
of central Queensland.
The Customs House
Located in Quay Street is another example of the Classic
Revival period architecture which was all the rage in
Rockhampton around the turn of the century. Built between
1898-1901 of Stanwell sandstone the building has a huge
copper dome and an elaborate semi-circular portico with a
Corinthian colonnade. The building was designed by the
Queensland Government architect, A B Brady, and is a
powerful reminder of the importance that Rockhampton enjoyed
as the major central coast port around that time.
The Criterion Hotel
This prime site at the end of Quay Street near the Fitzroy
Bridge was originally the site of Rockhampton's first hotel,
the Bush Inn which was built in 1857 and owned by Robert
Parker. Such was the wealth from the goldfields which poured
into Rockhampton in the 1880s that Parker's daughter, a Mrs
Curtis, commissioned the architect J Flint to build this
extraordinary and ostentatious three storey Neo Classic
Revival building in 1889. It was completed in October 1890.
It is worth noting that the colonnaded verandahs have hoods
to protect the rooms from the harsh Queensland sun.
The Supreme Court
Located at the western entrance to the East Street Mall, the
Supreme Court is a typical dour, geometrically correct,
Classic Revival building designed by G Connolly, the
Government Architect. Set back from the street the
combination of the fine wrought iron gates, the palm trees
in the forecourt, the solid ionic columns, and the pale
sandstone make it a particularly impressive public building.
It has been in continuous use for over 100 years having been
built in 1887.
The Union Trustee Chambers
Located at 170 Quay Street is one of the earliest of the
elegant buildings beside the river. Designed by the
Rockhampton architect, J W Wilson, as a residence and
surgery for Dr Callaghan, it is an important example of the
'Classic Colonial' style with an interesting combination of
Classical columns and cast iron balustrading. It is regarded
by the National Trust as a building of exceptional
historical significance.
Rees R & Sydney Jones - Solicitors
Located on the corner of Quay Street and Denham Street was
built in 1880 to a Neo Classic Revival design by the
architect, F D Stanley. Originally constructed for the
Queensland National Bank its cast iron balustrades and
Corinthian columns make it a very distinctive and prominent
corner building.
Heritage Tavern
A similar corner location is enjoyed by the magnificent
Heritage Tavern which is located on the corner of Quay
Street and William Street. Built in 1898 as Mrs L Johnson's
Commercial Hotel the architect J W Wilson adopted a colonial
style which is best exemplified by the superb iron columns
and lacework on the three storey narrow verandahs.
Other Buildings
While these are the major buildings in the central business
district they are surrounded by buildings of equal interest.
At the easterly end of Quay Street there are the Fitzroy
Shire Council Chambers (1896) a fine Neo Classic Revival
building with elliptical arches and elaborate parapet
detailing, the solid Victorian Walter Reid Apartments on the
corner of Derby Street and Quay Street, a run of buildings
between Derby and William Streets which includes Avonleigh
Chambers, and the ABC Studios at 236 Quay Street (originally
owned by Mt Morgan Gold Mining). The importance of this area
cannot be overstated. Anyone interested in the way
architecture reflects the fortunes of a city could not help
to be mesmerised by the gold mining affluence which these
grand buildings signify.
The history of Australia is so short that we often ignore
the small achievements of families who establish businesses
which become part of the local landscape. Within a decade of
the establishment of Rockhampton there was a Munro's
Bookshop in East Street. It was established in 1861 and the
original owner, William Munro, was also the publisher of the
first Rockhampton Almanac in 1865. There is still a Munro's
Bookshop in East Street (the shop passed out of the family
hands in 1924) over 130 years later.
The area beyond the City Centre.
If the centre of Rockhampton is full of architectural
delights the suburban area and the outlying regions are
equally interesting. Again the Rockhampton's Heritage
brochure lists no fewer than 20 buildings around the city
centre which are considered to be a great historical
interest. Of these the most interesting include:
The Ward Street Buildings
(a) Mater Hospital - a wonderfully ostentatious late
Victorian building built in 1890 for John Ferguson (a local
member of the Legislative Council) by the architect James
Flint. It boasts an elaborate tower, an impressive grand
staircase and decorative rendering.
(b) Yungaba Centre - another piece of Victorian
overstatement this house was also designed by James Flint.
This time the owner was John Ferguson's daughter. Built in
1897 its grand colonial design and elaborate lacework make
it one of the most interesting and dramatic residences in
Rockhampton. Nearby is the home of the Boland family now
known as
(c) Mr and Mrs Jeha's Residence which is a classic
Queensland colonial house elevated from the ground to let
the cool summer breezes reduce the heat and with elaborate
timber work which is a reminder of the superb timber
craftsmanship which existed in central Queensland around
1898 when the house was built.
Archer Park Railway Station
An interesting old timber railway station (1899) with a long
front verandah with cast iron columns, some attractive lace
ironwork and an elaborate entry porch. It looks a little
rundown at the moment but there are plans to turn it into a
railway museum.
St Paul's Cathedral
Located on the corner of Alma and William Streets (on the
edge of the city's CBD) is another one of the city's
buildings constructed out of Stanwell sandstone. Built
between 1879-83 in classic Gothic style it was constructed
in response to criticisms levelled against the previous,
rather modest, church which the locals felt was inferior to
cathedrals in other Queensland towns. Building actually
started as early as 1874 but came to an abrupt halt due to
lack of funds. It was started again in 1879 when Bishop
Stanton laid the foundation stone and was finally
consecrated in 1883.
St Joseph's Catholic Cathedral
Located on the corner of William and West Streets was built
of Stanwell stone in Victorian Gothic style in 1889-90. A
beautiful twin spired building its interior is characterised
by a dramatic, large scale timber vaulted roof and some
particularly lovely joinery work.
Botanic Gardens and Japanese Gardens
To the south of the city (refer to the Tourist Map of
Rockhampton available in East Street Mall for directions)
are the city's excellent Botanical Gardens which were first
developed in 1869 and boast a wide range of tropical and
warm climate plants. In 1982 a separate Japanese Gardens
were established. There is also a zoo with birds, emus,
kangaroos and koalas. Contact: (07) 4931 1254.
St Aubins Village
On Canoona Road, south of Rockhampton and near the airport,
is the interesting and unusual St Aubins Village, a
collection of five cottages with a grand Spanish Colonial
residence designed and built in the 1870s by a German
bricklayer named Roderkirchen, as the complex's centrepiece.
It has the distinction of being the first house in
Rockhampton to be listed by the National Trust. The house is
now run as part of an historical village which is open from
9.00-6.00 daily. Contact: (07) 4927 5676.
Gracemere Homestead
11 km southwest of the city is the beautiful Gracemere
Homestead which, while not open to the public, is a truly
remarkable example of early pioneer architecture. The
builder and architect was Colin Archer (one of the famous
Archer brothers who were the first European settlers in the
area) who later became an eminent naval architect. The
National Trust listing of the building notes 'A fine slab
homestead (completed May, 1858) with cedar linings and
joinery...The slab walls are arranged in sections with the
studs meeting the tie beams. Each section contains a
ventilation opening, window and door. The contents include
fine crafted furniture made for Gracemere by the Archers.
Sited on a peninsula and overlooking a lagoon, this
homestead and its garden is of great local and State
significance and remains in the ownership of the Archer
family.' It is covered by bougainvillea in season.
Rockhampton Historical Society Museum
Rockhampton Historical Society Museum is located on the
north side of the Fitzroy river near the Fitzroy Bridge.
This delightful colonial building was completed in 1885 for
the North Rockhampton Borough Council. The Museum contains
an interesting collection of memorabilia from the local area
and is open from 10.00 am to 2.00pm on Tuesdays and
Thursdays and 2.00pm to 5.00pm on Sunday.
Lakes Creek Hotel, Lakes Creek Cottages and St
Christophers Chapel
Beyond the Rockhampton Museum on the Lakes Creek Road are
the Lakes Creek Hotel, a fine vernacular timber hotel dating
from the turn of the century which is a typical central
Queensland pub, the Lakes Creek Cottages, an interesting
collection of cottages for local meatworkers which were
built in the 1880s, and, most interestingly, St Christophers
Chapel, an unusual open air non-denominational church which
was built in 1943 by American servicemen who were stationed
in the area. Built from bush timber with a concrete floor
and corrugated iron roof it is an interesting example of a
modern church designed out of simple, inexpensive materials.
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| Waterlilies at the
Dreamtime Centre, north Rockhampton
|
The Dreamtime Cultural Centre
One of the most interesting and unusual of all the
attractions at Rockhampton is the Aboriginal and Torres
Strait Islander Dreamtime Centre. The centre is set in
beautiful gardens, including a small waterfall and a pond,
and aims to introduce visitors to the culture of Central
Queensland Aborigines and the peoples of the Torres Strait
Islands. This is not done through the customary displays of
corroborees and didgeridu playing but rather through
conducted tours which explain the way the Aborigines used
the plants of the area, show how they built their dwellings,
tell the stories of the Darumbal peoples, and display some
of the artefacts from the surrounding area.
The building at the centre of the park was constructed to
recreate a cave in the Carnarvon National Park which,
according to Aboriginal legend, is haunted by an old
Aborigine who only appears to women. He apparently lost his
wife to a younger man and spends eternity seeking to find
her once again. The centre is open from 10.00am - 5.30pm
except Sundays. Contact: (07) 4936 1055
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| Old Glenmore Station
|
Glenmore Homestead
Glenmore Homestead is one of the many interesting old
buildings in the rural hinterland around Rockhampton.
Classified by the National Trust the Homestead complex
consists of the original log cabin (1858) which is a fine
example of the primitive style of construction adopted by
the early settlers. It boasts log walls, slab flooring and a
shingle roof. There is also a slab house which was once a
Bush Inn and a stone and adobe house built by a Mexican
stone mason in 1862. The turnoff to Glenmore Homestead is
only 200 metres beyond the Dreamtime Centre on the Bruce
Highway. It has won a number of awards because the people
who own it have created a tourist complex which is much more
than a collection of old buildings and memorabilia. They
serve damper, host wedding receptions, and have regular bush
dances. The old homestead has become an unusual and
interesting backdrop for these more contemporary
experiences. Contact: (07) 4936 1033
Olsens Capricorn Caves
Olsens Capricorn Caves, located 23 km north of Rockhampton
on the Bruce Highway, have the distinction of being the
oldest tourist attraction in Queensland. The sixteen caves
were first discovered by John Olsen, a Norwegian migrant, in
1882. Two years later he opened them to the public. Formed
from an ancient coral reef some 380 million years ago, the
caves are privately owned and therefore are used for such
unlikely activities as weddings and parties. Contact: (07)
4934 2883.
Anyone interested in reading further on Rockhampton
should consult Rockhampton: A History of City and District
by Lorna McDonald which is an outstanding work of local
history. Eminently readable it is a city history which
manages to tread the fine line between lively anecdote and
carefully researched facts. The result is a book which is a
detailed and comprehensive history of the city and environs.
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